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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It took some effort but I found the components that make up the alternator pigtail.

Genuine Toyota plug with high temp mill spec 18ga wire.

I used a nice high dollar crimper to attach the terminal to the wire.

12" of wire attached. It's a little pricy but it was expensive to roundup all the parts and pieces.

$25.00 shipped lower 48 states.

My Paypal is [email protected]
 

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Why might one need these?
 

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From my own personal experience, I accidently fried one of the wires going into the back of the pigtail after installing my BWR supercharger. The wire was shielded from the header, but not well enough.
 

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Yup, I was able to go to the Toyota dealer and get new pig tails installed into my plug, maybe $3ea, they are heavier gauge wires than the orginal.
What did you do to shield the wires so it does not happen again?
 

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I routed the harness further away from the header and sleeved the harness wire and pigtail connector in header wrap. Haven't had any problems since.
 

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I routed the harness further away from the header and sleeved the harness wire and pigtail connector in header wrap. Haven't had any problems since.
Sounds like a great idea!
 

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Yup, I was able to go to the Toyota dealer and get new pig tails installed into my plug, maybe $3ea, they are heavier gauge wires than the orginal.
What did you do to shield the wires so it does not happen again?

How did you get the old pig tails out?
 

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just got these this for $27 from toyota. If you want to go down to 20 shipped I'll take it off your hand.
Bit late now, but.. I'm pretty sure he makes them, not selling a single one.

So uhhh..... sorry about the "wat" I just thought you were being rude :D
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bit late now, but.. I'm pretty sure he makes them, not selling a single one.

So uhhh..... sorry about the "wat" I just thought you were being rude :D

The pigtails are quite handy. I have sold quite a few, more than 10.

I'm getting rich.
 

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I could have really used these pigtails about a year ago when the cable to my alternator crapped out. The shop I used did not mount the alternator correctly when installing my BWR supercharger. As a result, the cable sheared off at the adapter from the vibration, causing the engine to die. I had to improvise a solution.
 

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hey Jim,

do you know what the gauge of the main (red) wire is going to the alternator? I am trying to find a big enough tongue to fit. I'm guessing its 8-10 gauge wire. I'm about to try the using the 10-12 gauge connecter that I have, I'm going to solder it too. enough with these alternator wires what a pita
 

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Discussion Starter #17
hey Jim,

do you know what the gauge of the main (red) wire is going to the alternator? I am trying to find a big enough tongue to fit. I'm guessing its 8-10 gauge wire. I'm about to try the using the 10-12 gauge connecter that I have, I'm going to solder it too. enough with these alternator wires what a pita
I feel your pain. I had so much trouble that I relocated my alternator back to the factory location. I still have those parts for sale. :D

I would run 12" of 6 or 8 ga. very flexible wire (i.e. car stereo power wire)
from the alternator to the extension harness. Wire tie the 8 ga to the alternator housing. The new 8 ga. and connector will move with the alternator.

The new lug on the old cable (very stiff) will keep vibrating and break even if you solder.

ShawnC broke his a few times. I think he found a nice beefy cable and lug at the auto parts store and spliced it in.
 

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I'm going to solder it too. enough with these alternator wires what a pita
The new lug on the old cable (very stiff) will keep vibrating and break even if you solder.
In fact, soldering it will pretty much guarantee that it will break from the vibrations. Even if you have a flexible wire, the solder wicks up the strands and make things solid (and fragile).

DO NOT solder wires that are subject to vibrations - use a high quality crimper to crimp a high quality crimp.

Don't forget to add a strain relief loop also. Route the wire so that it has a rather large loop of wire near the connector - relative motion flexes the loop instead of the sharp bend at the crimp.
 

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++++++1
In fact, soldering it will pretty much guarantee that it will break from the vibrations. Even if you have a flexible wire, the solder wicks up the strands and make things solid (and fragile).
DO NOT solder wires that are subject to vibrations - use a high quality crimper to crimp a high quality crimp..
 
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