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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
oil Dilution

oil Dilution-If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system, the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both will result in higher oil consumption. Excess fuel can enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel pump problem, and restricted air intake or through excessive idling.

has any one heard or experienced this?

here are my symptoms.

i have been burning about a quart of oil per 250 miles on average for the last 4 months. i check it all the time. it will be ok for a while only dropping slightly then next time its lost 2 quarts!

i have a catch can, very little if any is in there.

on tip in hard acceleration, i get a poof of gray black smoke out the back. as seen here.

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intrested in everyones thoughts.
 

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take it to the shop or check the exhaust tip, leaks, spark plugs, injectors, compression test, check af, can't really give you much more of a check everything answer without more data.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
take it to the shop or check the exhaust tip, leaks, spark plugs, injectors, compression test, check af, can't really give you much more of a check everything answer without more data.
no leaks. ive checked everywhere, around the engine, oil lines, vent lines, oil coolers, hoses not a single drip.

spark plugs were just changed. plug one had a little more oil then the others. i have a pic some where...

comp test was great and leak down was good, i posted them on more monkey. air fuel is very rich, 11's.

next week i expect to take it to a guy in ny to have it looked at...
 

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If you suspect AF, do a dyno run, read the AF mixes from a wideband in the right place ie around where the primary O2 sensor is, reset the ECU do another run, if the HP/TQ or AF mix changes drastically, you've found the problem, if it didn't, you haven't.

i don't know which base firmware you have so if its one of the later ones the advanced diagnostics are tuned off, unless PES figured out how to turn them back on, or used an older tune, to reset the tune you'll need a drewtech mongoose,cardaq or scandaq ,then use my learn reset tool, unfortunately you won't know if the diagnostics are turned off until after you try it, unless BWR/PES know of course, reading the firmware version with an OBD II tool or a Tech3 will at least tell you if its an older one, not all OBD II readers are capable of reading the firmware id off the top of my head it needs to support mode 9.

the long term/short term fuel trims will give some quick insight however they reduce over time, so they are not the whole story.

You can reset the learn by fiddling with the power at switch off, but its trial and error and riskier for the ecu itself, plus its harder to tell its been reset correctly, the Tech3 doen't have the facility to reset the ecu.
 

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00 MRS - 2ZZ NA
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Whoa...get that checked out...that sounds like a high milage 1zz problem...
 

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Its possible I suppose. If you're leaking that much gas in to the oil that it thins it out to the point where it could pass by the tighter tolerances in the engine where it would not have been able to get through before. If you want to check that, drain your oil and send it here Blackstone Laboratories they do oil analysis and can tell you what metal (if any) or gas is in the oil. I wouldn't drive it much if you can help it because if it is gas washing the cylinder walls like that, there will be premature failure due to extreme wear of the rings and cylinder wall. Maybe you should pull the injectors and have them changed, It's an easy process and cheap to get em tested. I think a Dyno run/any driving is the worst thing you can do if this is the real problem
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its possible I suppose. If you're leaking that much gas in to the oil that it thins it out to the point where it could pass by the tighter tolerances in the engine where it would not have been able to get through before. If you want to check that, drain your oil and send it here Blackstone Laboratories they do oil analysis and can tell you what metal (if any) or gas is in the oil. I wouldn't drive it much if you can help it because if it is gas washing the cylinder walls like that, there will be premature failure due to extreme wear of the rings and cylinder wall. Maybe you should pull the injectors and have them changed, It's an easy process and cheap to get em tested. I think a Dyno run/any driving is the worst thing you can do if this is the real problem
:(:sad:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
He shouldn't drive it? Now you tell him!



Rob, get over here ASAP before you spend all your money. I'll buy you lunch.
lol, your on! now if only my tire were here so that i could drive!
 

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Indeed, only dyno it if you believe the car to be mechanically sound, you don't have to do a full run to see if the learn affects the tune, it'll show up as soon as it gets to a decent load / airflow.
 

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Wingless Wonder
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I can't believe it isn't about normal. I was following another (stock I think) '06 'Lise today (4000 miles on the 'clock) and a puff came out the back under sudden acceleration.

Nothing that a guy used to carburetted cars would be concerned about! :D



I'm with Charlie, we need more info:


What type oil (weight) you using?

What chip are you running (today)? :huh:

Compression Test results?

Last time valves were adjusted?

Why do you suspect it's gasoline in the oil?

PS: My Lotus (an Esprit, 70000 miles) uses no oil unless I drive it hard (upper RPM ranges, for a long time). For example I'll be bringing a quart of my favorite brew to LOG... the long trips over 3000 RPM (Turbo usually workin') will make it use a qt every 900 miles. Otherwise is doesn't use ANY!
:wave:
 
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