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Dreaded Prior Owner
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Discussion Starter #22
Closing out the thread- In the end, it's another head gasket. When cold it would hold pressure for hours, but warm the motor and the fun begins.

For a while it seemed to stabilize and trade coolant with the recovery tank just fine, but it finally let go, ate some coolant and the header tank was finally low enough to do the block test, which showed combustion in the coolant.
 

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There are products out there that claim to seal leaky head gaskets. It might be worth a try. If it works it is LOT cheaper than a top job. Even if it does work it may not be a long term solution but still might be worth a try.
David Teitelbaum
 

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I went through this a few months ago. It's a tough problem to confront but I would just bite the bullet and pull the engine. One definite recommendation is the gasket which failed on mine was the aftermarket version sold by JAE. The second time around I went with the Goetze (sp?) gasket, new ARP studs and I had Cedric my head expert check that everything was flat and while it was in his shop I had him do the exhaust valve guides which he thought needed attention. After all was said and done (I get shipwright's disease really bad - redid the bearings and had them coated by Swain Tech, did the rings too) the car runs extremely well and I am very happy. Oh, and I did a oil filter relocation so now I can actually change the filter and not get oil all over the engine every time you spin the filter off.
 

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I had a similar issue on my 1983.. Turned out there was a blockage in the bleed hose that goes from the thermostat outlet (the tube that has the otter switch) back to the header tank. Take some compressed air to be sure this hose is clear. If it is plugged it won't do its job of bleeding off trapped air in the system.

Jeff
 

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Snowrx tested for products of combustion in the coolant and it came up positive. A blocked overflow hose can't cause that, a popped head gasket will.
David Teitelbaum
 

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You can't make this up
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I went through this a few months ago. It's a tough problem to confront but I would just bite the bullet and pull the engine. One definite recommendation is the gasket which failed on mine was the aftermarket version sold by JAE. The second time around I went with the Goetze (sp?) gasket, new ARP studs and I had Cedric my head expert check that everything was flat and while it was in his shop I had him do the exhaust valve guides which he thought needed attention. After all was said and done (I get shipwright's disease really bad - redid the bearings and had them coated by Swain Tech, did the rings too) the car runs extremely well and I am very happy. Oh, and I did a oil filter relocation so now I can actually change the filter and not get oil all over the engine every time you spin the filter off.
This should have been the gold standard for ever :clap:
 
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