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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone removed autocross cone scuff marks off their paint yet? We've got two large black cone scuffs on both sides of the car and I've used a claybar to no avail...I also just tried bug and tar remover and polishing compound.

Any ideas?

Some of the scuffs are on the 3m protector, some are on the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, when I had my car serviced the guy must have had black grease on his hands because there was a large black smudge on my lower rocker panel. When I got home I washed it off and the black stain remains. I've washed it two times since then and its still there.

It looks like this car is going to stain, like a plastic countertop. ? Any ideas on how to remove this sort of thing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, I didnt know that. Why not?

I think Claybars are a crock ( sorry claybar fans) so I didnt use it much...good thing I guess.

I did try Tar and bug remover and it didnt seem to do much.
 

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OneFastLotus said:
I've used a claybar to no avail...<...> Some of the scuffs are on the 3m protector, some are on the paint.
No recommendations, but I thought the instructions that came with the StarShield specifically said not to use clay on the film...

Did I mis-read the instructions?

Claybar worked wonders for me once when I had to remove the pant overspray that landed on my car - nothing else removed the paint dots without removing much more of the regular paint...
 

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How about wax? I had tar crap on my motorcycle one time and couldn't get it all of so I decided to just wax the bike to help make future cleaning easier. When I started waxing the tar area it came right off like washing dirt with soapy water. Not sure what else it might do but I don't think it could hurt?
 

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Clay bars weren't designed for this use, so I wouldn't call them a "crock" just yet. You may also have been using a consumer grade bar which isn't even designed to remove overspray. Are these scuffs in the starshield, the paint, or both?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The scuffs are along the bottom side of the rockers and in front of the rear wheels, all of which are are the STARSHIELD. The scuffs are from the orange cones hitting the car. The orange cones are dirty etc and leave black scuffs. Any autocrosser will know what they are. They normally come right off the paint of a car with some elbow grease. They're NOT coming off the starsheild.

The clay bar I have is a Zaino clay bar. I hope its one of the better ones as I paid a good amount of money for them.

We just tried WD40, didnt work.

Tried buffing compound by hand, didnt work.

Tried wax by hand, didnt work.

Tried Diswashing detergent with elbow grease. Didnt work.

Got the buffer out and tried buffing using compound and waxing, didnt work.

Tried bug and tar remover. Didnt work.
 

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Been waiting to read what others have found out.

It has been my experience so far, that cone marks on the film are a LOT harder to get off then I am used to.

I tried a plethora of product to no avail. Though some worked a little better than others.

In the end, what worked the best was Bestine from 3M. Did it hurt the film? I don't think so, but heck, maybe it will disolve in 2 years. My experience in the photo world was tha Bestine was a great gum/residue remover on plastics without causing harm.
 

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The 3M film is likely permanently marred from the cone abrasion. Those marks may not come out. Try to exposing the scuffed areas to the sun for a few hours. The film/clear has some self-healing properties that allow it to recover when exposed to UV/heat. Make sure you strip any wax off of the scuffed areas first.
 

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Shinoo may be on to something, because polishing/rubbing compound can be very harsh on paint depending on the product. Not sure what you used, but it may be quite mild.

However, if there is color transfer, conceivably it can be removed, but at what cost to the film?

Zaino sells a pretty standard clay and it does a good job at what it's designed to do, which is remove embedded contaminants from lightly soiled paint. It is however, on the mild end of the spectrum and certainly a good place to start for a new or like new car.
 

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I got my cone marks off using a cleaner wax in just a few minutes. The marks were on the film not the paint. I don't have the Lotus/3M film though I have the Armourglove stuff. For cone scuffs I usually use the Meguiar's cleaner wax that comes in the red/maroon bottle.

Here I am caught in the act...



A few moments of work and they were "all gone".
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since Stan has a different type of protectant I can only assume our lotus film is much different because mequires didnt even touch this scuff.

BUT.....I FOUND WHAT DOES.

Yes folks...It's MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASER. I just tried it on the scuffs and they came off, albeit with some elbow grease. I dont think you can use this on paint or if you do you need to TEST it first. I used it on a wall in t he house and it took the paint off. But, on the plastic, it took the scuffs off. I dont see any clouding of the plastic or anything unusual either.
 

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Crap! I hadn't thought of this! Cones don't mark the paintwork because they "give up" some of the plastic from the cone ( the cone has a much lower melting point than paint). The starshield though is another "softish" plastic so It is probably going to get permanently marked unless it can be protected. The Starshield is getting marked from the heat generated by the abrasion.
My only thoughts are that either a good coating of wax (as a sacrificial layer) or something "oily" to prevent the friction and the heat. If its oily though it is going to collect a lot of dust.
Because of all these problems with starshield I am going to make sure I have a good coating of carnuba on mine once it gets here.
Glad to hear you got them off OFL. BTW have you waxed the starshield?
 

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You do know that one way to avoid this problem is to avoid hitting the cones in the first place...rotfl rotfl :wave:
 

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Clay works well if you are superanal and have a car that has been driven a bit. You can easily feel the stuff coming off of the surface of the paint. The resistance goes *way* down when the paint is clean. You can then feel the paint surface with your bare hands and tell that it is smooth. Clay is mostly a car show or super clean car sort of thing. Wax goes on and comes off very easily after claying.

It's not for cone scuffs at all, but it does have it's place.
 

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Ran an autocross yesterday with a co-driver...lots of slaloms, offets and boxes. I had some fierce cone marks on the paint film ahead of the rear wheels. I seldom hit cones in my M# but that car does not get very much wider behind the driver. Somehow the marks were much harder to remove than what I have run up against in the past. What wound up working extremely well was not that magic eraser stuff...but some gojo hand cleaner with pumice..followed by some plastic polish and wax. Worked perfectly and was way more effective than anything else I tried such as cleaner wax, WD-40, etc. Cone scuffs are much easier to clean off of paint it appears. On paint some cleaner wax and minimal effort removes them. It seems to be much simpler to just apply some painter's masking tape to known cone trouble spots. That way the clean up efforts are much reduced. Here's an example...

 

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Sort off-topic, but can anyone recommend a specific brand of bug/tar remover? I have used the clay bar route, and it never works. Specifically, I need to get drops of tree sap off my M3. I have it on the paint and on the windshield. Thoughts?
 
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