Can't speak for the Innovative - but I just did the Manly Inserts which was just the front and back mounts. If you look them up on the web, they have a good set of instructions (as does Sector 111) for at least the front and back mounts (Note the torque values are wrong on the Manly). Of course, just one mount at a time - and be sure to have a hyd. jack on hand. You will need that to both lift the engine, and help push the new mounts into the mounting points.
Removing both front and back proved difficult for me, I was able to do it but it took 4 times longer then it should have. Access is very tight, and you always have to watch out for cross threading into aluminum. Be sure to have both sockets w/extensions and wrenches ready to go. Oh, and as long as you're under there you might want to change the engine oil, transmission oil & examine your exhaust for cracks.
The front one is pretty easy. The back one is harder. I upgraded my mounts 5 years ago and only did the front and back. Not sure why I didn't do the driver side, maybe it was too buried.
But now since I have the engine out and the clam off the side was MUCH easier And yes you will need a jack under the engine. You might have to move it around to get the right rotation axis. Its usually best to put the jack under the engine and lift it until it just starts to push on the engine. Then remove the mount and the engine will stay in the same place. Makes pushing the long bolt through easier. But sometimes you will have to move the engine as well for clearance.
I opted to use the $5 engine mount version. Like I said I did 2 of them 5 years ago when I first got the car and they still look to be in good shape. The polyurethane isn't cracked like some people swore would happen back then.
Heres the drivers side with polyurethane in it. It makes quite a bit firmer, but there is still some very small amount of movement allowed. But basically once you get the engine mounted and you rock the engine the car moves not engine...but its not a solid mount nor all the unpleasantness associated with that.
Rub a very small dot of permatex dielectric grease along the flat surfaces of the front mount's urethane so that it can glide against the aluminum bracket you have to slide it into. If you don't do this, you will scream murder.
If you have a rear toe link brace, you will have to remove the toe link brace before you can remove the rear mount. So be sure to have those torque figures at the ready too. If you are re-using nord-lock washers, be sure to clean them and *LUBRICATE* the washers before tightening them. This is what nord-lock says you must do if you reuse their washers.
I've never replaced the side mounts so I have no advice to you for them, sorry.