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Discussion Starter #1
Next week taking it in for brake flush and to lower the track pack, get the -1.5 camber, corner balanced, etc. Anything I should look for after it is lowered by the shop for those that have done this to make sure its right or how it should feel while driving, etc.?
 

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One thing you can check easily is the ride height - should be slightly higher in the rear than the front. Perhaps around 110-120mm in the front and 120-130mm in the rear, according to conventional wisdom around here.

John
 

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I set my alignment a few weeks ago. I went by the Track Pack recommendations, and lowered it 10 MM. If you lower more than that you will bump the wheel well liners more than you want. Remove all the front camber shims and the ABS bracket and you will get close to the recommended spec. Be sure to lower first, as that will adjust the camber also. :sad:
 

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Next week taking it in for brake flush and to lower the track pack, get the -1.5 camber, corner balanced, etc. Anything I should look for after it is lowered by the shop for those that have done this to make sure its right or how it should feel while driving, etc.?
I assume you mean -1.5 degrees of front camber? You'll probably not be able to get to that much negative camber without having the uprights machined. I've got all the shims out but the speed sensor shim and have -1.0. (Removing the speed sensor shim would probably get me to -1.3) Make sure that ride height is set with proper ballast, i.e. the weight of yourself (and potentially a passenger, if desired) in the seat(s) of the car.

You can check the front camber fairly easily with a digital level... but again you'll want to have ballast in the car when you do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I assume you mean -1.5 degrees of front camber? You'll probably not be able to get to that much negative camber without having the uprights machined. I've got all the shims out but the speed sensor shim and have -1.0. (Removing the speed sensor shim would probably get me to -1.3) Make sure that ride height is set with proper ballast, i.e. the weight of yourself (and potentially a passenger, if desired) in the seat(s) of the car.

You can check the front camber fairly easily with a digital level... but again you'll want to have ballast in the car when you do it.
I actually have machined uprights that are going on to get the front -1.5 camber. So getting before and after numbers on the setup is a good idea also.
Plus, I will make sure to show up with a 1/2 tank of gas. I have seen a lot of varying results but what do you see as the proper weight front to back or corner to corner? Also, if I do it setup more for me will the car really be visually leaning to one side over another?
 

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I'm having the alignment done Wednesday. George at EuroSport is doing it and is apparently the go-to guy for setting up most of the Lotus & Spec Miatas that regularly run at Autobahn Country Club. I didn't even ask what specs he suggests, planning to just let him set it up as he sees fit. He had mentioned machining something to get the front where he wants it. I'll be curious to see if his suggestions are in line with what I'm reading here.
 

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I actually have machined uprights that are going on to get the front -1.5 camber. So getting before and after numbers on the setup is a good idea also.
Plus, I will make sure to show up with a 1/2 tank of gas. I have seen a lot of varying results but what do you see as the proper weight front to back or corner to corner? Also, if I do it setup more for me will the car really be visually leaning to one side over another?
I've set up my car with just ballast for my weight in the driver's seat, and between 1/2 and a full tank of fuel (the difference is only about 30 pounds, so it's not absolutely critical to have exactly 1/2 tank). There's no noticeable lean when the car is empty, since the driver is pretty close to the centerline of the car anyway.

Here's what the corner weights looked like for my car, with 200# in the driver's seat and almost a full tank of fuel:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I actually just got in from Michigan (sad Im already on Lotustalk) and Auto Europe was great and so refreshing compared to MAG. Tom and Charles are spot on and so into these cars. They uncovered a few items and quickly got parts shipped in, got the suspension dialed in, did a brake/clutch fluid flush-change, cut and re-welded the exhaust tip on the clubsport to look much better, sounds a bit louder but in a good way:evil: Thank goodness for ear plugs though with that exhaust...

I got to take a few fast on / off ramps on the way back and it digs quite a bit more while feeling more smooth or transitional (not sure if that makes sense). It does catch ruts more due to the camber on the freeway which is what Charles had said but it's not much and totally drivable. If you have been on Michigan roads lately you will know what Im sayin about ruts...

All and all, great experience and worth the trip.
Hats off to the Auto Europe group!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here is where we ended up.

Half Tank of gas.
160 Driver 150 passenger

Front Left: 480 Front Right: 464
Rear Left: 723 Rear Right: 716

Corner: 1187 Corner:1196

Total with Driver & Passenger:2383
Just Car: 2073
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*They didn't get an accurate before reading because of a botched install of the left steering rack boot that was twisted/ripped causing it to be off.

So here is after.

Chamber
Front Left: -1.61 Front Right: -1.58
Rear Left: -2.05 Rear Right: -2.10

It was set to 120mm but after weighting it ended up at 119 front and rear 121mm so it has a little rake.
 
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