[SwingLo]

Ok, WAAY too many forums, threads, products, sites, etc.

I'll watch Junkman's videos on technique, but I'm going to do the detail thing to my car myself this time. I have a Griot's orbital.

Give me the EXACT recipe - obviously wash, clay (or my super speedy towel), wash, but tell me:

- Cutting - and what products?
- Paint correction/swirls - and what products?
- Glaze - and what products?
- Wax - and what products?

I want someone to make it dummy proof.

I've seen Chem Guys: 1)EZ Creme Glaze, 2) Jet Seal 190, 3) 50/50 Paste wax.

Make it easy on me.

Oh, and for a 'quick' one - I do wash, super speedy towel, wash and Optimum Spray Car wax (With hand microfiber towel). Great results, but it's not the full monty.

Help a brotha out.

 

[Junkman2008]

... I want someone to make it dummy proof.

I thought that the only thing my videos were missing was the Barney music.

 

[glb]

Is the car garaged? This will determine best wax for you.

I like Junkman's videos, but feel he is too hung up on claying. I almost never do that but get the same plastic bag results w/o it.

Only 2 steps for me on a clean car.

1. Imperial Hand Glaze. Yes, but I still use a nice slow machine. Deswirls, erases minor imperfections, etc.

NOTE: Do only a small section at a time. If you let it dry, you'll have to redo that section again...or use a chisel.

2. Garaged car: One Grand Blitz Wax.

Trick is to apply it with your hand. Heat from your hand melts it a bit and results in better adhesion. (optional, of course)

This wax allows you to do the entire car if you wish. Excellent shine, holds up v well.

With a buffer, use very little.

Finish with lambs wool on buffer.

NOTE: Go slow, let the machine do its job. Do not linger over peaks on body panels, tho.

NOTE: Use plastic/rubber dressing on trim pieces first, so the wax doesn't stick to or stain them.

Rewaxing right away is of no value. 2 wks later, better.


This guy tests all the products and even knows best wax for car, based on how mfgr paints and what mfgr uses.

www.carecareonline.com

In 20 yrs, he's been right every friggin time.

Do you also need info about wheel cleaning? Did you see the post from the guy who used scotchbrite on his wheels? Wow.

 

[Junkman2008]

... I like Junkman's videos, but feel he is too hung up on claying. I almost never do that but get the same plastic bag results w/o it.

Of course you can say that and there's no way that anyone here can verify it because we can't touch your car. However, pray that you are never parked next to me at a car show because looks alone will tell the truth about our paint. The fact that you use a product like a glaze (which is used to HIDE and FILL IN imperfections and not REMOVE them), tells me volumes about your regime. When I bring a camera into the paint of a car I have fixed without a drop of wax on it, it speaks volumes about my regime that can't be denied. If you don't clay, your shine is not going to be anything like my shine.

Would you like to post a video displaying YOUR car's paint in direct sunlight like this? I would love to see it.

 

[glb]

Oh, I somehow knew you'd take exception to my statement.

Swing, here is what Carcareonline says about 3M Imperial hand glaze:

"The best hand applied, superfine, liquid glaze with high filling characteristics to clean, remove minor swirl marks, polish and renew the "wet look" shine to paint prior to waxing. It removes oxidized pigments, acid rain marks, fine scratches and swirl marks. Apply a small amount to a microfiber applicator pad or a soft, 100% cotton flannel cloth or a terry cloth covered foam applicator pad. Work into the paint using moderate pressure in a linear motion, until all that remains is a slight haze, then buff off with a Blu-Velvet Microfiber Buffing/Polishing Cloth or soft, 100% cotton flannel cloth. May be used as a carrier for P21S Multi-Surface Finish Restorer Polish to polish out deeper scratches. Does not contain silicone and is formulated to work on all colors. Use at least twice a year (spring/fall) to refresh the paint and follow immediately with a coat of quality wax. (Our favorite glaze to remove minor swirl marks.)"

Junkman, I think you are a real asset here, but we needn't agree all the time.

1. I don't go to car shows to show my car's paint.

2. While you are still claying, I am done and driving.

We have different goals, you see. What I see when I'm done is a very shiny car with no minor scratches or any swirls. People have stopped to stare at my lowly XRS (not to mention the Lotus, which is Arctic Silver).

The rubber I glued to the bottom of my metal box that holds my Battery Tender will not stay on the gently sloped XRS hood when I'm finished.

Swing, ask Larry Reynolds for the best wax for your car.
------

Clay, as per Mr. Reynolds who seeks to Ferrari and Porsche owners who may be a tad finicky:

Clay: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove fresh paint overspray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant or get contaminants in the clay and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend frequent use of this type of product. You literally grind off a small amount of paint. It should be used as was intended, to grind off paint overspray or contaminants that may not be dissolved with a solvent.

Again, JM, we are fine, I hope.

 

[Nessal]

GLB I agree that someone that doesn't know wtf they are doing would probably do more damage trying to clay their car. However, I clay mine twice a year and there really is a difference. Now I'm not competing in some showcar competition but I do like to take very good care of my stuff. Just my opinion. Do or don't. It's all a personal choice.


By the way, 99% of people will not notice any difference between a detailed car to one that haven't beem washed in a week. But it's more of a personal thing because I can tell.

 

[glb]

yeah, but the "you literally grind off a small amt of paint" line & explanation of what it's actually for sort of puts me off.

We all got excellent shines before this "new" product was foisted on us, right?

in the end: do what makes you feel good. We agree there.

 

[Junkman2008]

Oh, I somehow knew you'd take exception to my statement.

Swing, here is what Carcareonline says about 3M Imperial hand glaze:

"The best hand applied, superfine, liquid glaze with high filling characteristics...

That's exactly what I said that a glaze is. It's a filler. It doesn't remove anything because it contains no polish (abrasive).

Junkman, I think you are a real asset here, but we needn't agree all the time.

... 2. While you are still claying, I am done and driving.

You see, that's where you are wrong. Where you may think an abundant amount of time has to be spent claying, I know that UPKEEP is what keeps me from having to spend a crazy amount of time keeping my car's paint perfect. I only had to fix my paint ONCE and from that day forward, all I had to do was maintain that shine. It's nothing but good ol' common sense and preventive maintenance. Trust me, I not only keep my paint looking sharp but I drive the hell out of my car. So you may be out driving, but I'm out there RACING!

I will admit this. I do have one car that has never seen a complete claying, wash or waxing. But that's my daily driver. It's a sleeper. It's not supposed to be shiny.

We have different goals, you see. What I see when I'm done is a very shiny car with no minor scratches or any swirls. People have stopped to stare at my lowly XRS (not to mention the Lotus, which is Arctic Silver).

The rubber I glued to the bottom of my metal box that holds my Battery Tender will not stay on the gently sloped XRS hood when I'm finished.

Swing, ask Larry Reynolds for the best wax for your car.
------

Clay, as per Mr. Reynolds who seeks to Ferrari and Porsche owners who may be a tad finicky:

Clay: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove fresh paint overspray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant or get contaminants in the clay and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend frequent use of this type of product. You literally grind off a small amount of paint. It should be used as was intended, to grind off paint overspray or contaminants that may not be dissolved with a solvent.

Again, JM, we are fine, I hope.

Yes we are. Even if this Mr. Reynolds has scared you into believing that claying is dangerous. He doesn't mention that clay comes in different levels of abrasiveness and the consumer clay that I recommend to novices is not going to do any serious damage to anything when used as I demonstrate in my claying 101 video. All anyone has to do to make themselves a believer is to do the baggie test and then clay a small section of their paint. Night and day will be the difference. They can judge for themselves.

GLB I agree that someone that doesn't know wtf they are doing would probably do more damage trying to clay their car. However, I clay mine twice a year and there really is a difference.

Yes there is and as anyone can see by the video above, claying is NOT rocket science. I would allow anyone here to practice claying on my paint without blinking an eye. But then I would allow a 10-year old to buff on my paint too, just to show how not-so-dangerous it actually is when using an orbital polisher.

yeah, but the "you literally grind off a small amt of paint" line & explanation of what it's actually for sort of puts me off.

We all got excellent shines before this "new" product was foisted on us, right?

in the end: do what makes you feel good. We agree there.

And that line is COMPLETELY false when using consumer grade clay. You actually have to go buy body shop grade clay to achieve that and the only place that is sold is at a body shop supply store. You are definitely not going to find it at your local over the counter auto store. Don't fall for that incorrect hype.

By the way, clay is not new. It's been around for a number of years.

 

[oldmansan]

Clay is nearly stupid proof. Unless you drop your clay on the ground you'll be fine. Maybe Mr. Reynolds is stupid.

I don't use wax and haven't for years. Doesn't last long and doesn't protect as well as sealants/polishes.

San

 

[Zippy_Slug]

Of course you can say that and there's no way that anyone here can verify it because we can't touch your car. However, pray that you are never parked next to me at a car show because looks alone will tell the truth about our paint. The fact that you use a product like a glaze (which is used to HIDE and FILL IN imperfections and not REMOVE them), tells me volumes about your regime. When I bring a camera into the paint of a car I have fixed without a drop of wax on it, it speaks volumes about my regime that can't be denied. If you don't clay, your shine is not going to be anything like my shine.

Would you like to post a video displaying YOUR car's paint in direct sunlight like this? I would love to see it.

Guess The Wax... - YouTube

So what did it look like before the detail session? Got any before video / pics?

Good work.. I'll be getting on my Lotus this weekend.. FINALLY.. I need to go watch your previous videos to make sure I do it right.

Cheers!

 

[glb]

Junkman,

Question: I always used nice cloth caps on my old Craftsman machine.

The new Porter-Cable, which is nice, uses velco and foam pads.

1. What do you think of the foam?

2. I got some Meguiars (sp?) foam pads, but they are not good. Being perfectly flat, they took more work to remove wax.

So, got some Chemical Guys pads, which have peaks and valleys, ridges.

3. Any opinion on these?

4. I always finish with lambs wool pad.

Thanks.

 

[Junkman2008]

So what did it look like before the detail session? Got any before video / pics?

Here ya' go.

Junkman,

Question: I always used nice cloth caps on my old Craftsman machine.

The new Porter-Cable, which is nice, uses velco and foam pads.

1. What do you think of the foam?

Two things. If you had watched any of my videos, you would have seen that the ONLY thing I use is foam. Two, there is NO SUCH ANIMAL as a nice cloth cap. They are all made in China and the process they use to make them is crap. You are installing more swirls than you are removing with those things.

2. I got some Meguiars (sp?) foam pads, but they are not good. Being perfectly flat, they took more work to remove wax.

You need to watch all 5 of the videos in this thread multiple times so that you can see what you need to do in order to be successful. That's 2 HOURS of videos so take notes. That way, you won't make the mistake of asking questions about the stuff I have already answered in those videos.

So, got some Chemical Guys pads, which have peaks and valleys, ridges.

3. Any opinion on these?

Yes, in those videos that I directed you too.

4. I always finish with lambs wool pad.

Thanks.

Worst thing that you can do. I can tell that you are as old as me with everything that you are doing. That's the way my father taught me back in the 70's. Times have a changed my friend! Watch those videos. We seriously need to unplug you from the Matrix.

 

[Top Flight]

Swinglo what you said I did .. Ez creme glaze, jet seal, and 50/50 paste.. Chemical guys best bang for buck seriously... And upkeep with pinnacle crystal mist carnuba detail spray .. Get that paint prepped real good with that super speedy towel (I have one too) also after clay towelif paint is older use chemical guys virtua-bond paint prep cleaner..

 

[Top Flight]

Oh and if you have a lot of rail dust from brakes use iron x after clay..it melts all metal/organic stuff lodged in your paint that clay can't even take out..good ****

 

[Junkman2008]

Oh and if you have a lot of rail dust from brakes use iron x after clay..it melts all metal/organic stuff lodged in your paint that clay can't even take out..good ****

Clay can't take out? No such animal. There are 3 different grits of clay. One of them will get out anything there is. I've clayed a ton of cars and everyone one of them came clean with the lightest clay on the market (consumer grade). I have never had to use anything else.

 

[gungriffin]

I am surprised that no one has mentioned one of my favorite detailing/car wash items- Optimum No Rinse. Stuff is nothing short of amazing. You can wash/dry a car in 10 minutes or less. I love it.

My list would probably be as follows:
-Optimum No Rinse for normal washing, using screens in the bucket and the 2 bucket method
-Dawn for before a detail
-Clay bar for sure. If you don't like spending the 20-30 minutes it takes to actually clay bar a car these are new and everyone is raving about them. Going to buy one on the next big detailing purchase Speedy Surface Prep Towel, speedy prep towel, clay towel, sm arnold clay towel, clay bar towel Everyone says they take less than half the time of clay and work just as well.
-Meguiars M105/205 for compounding/polishing
-Assortment of Lake Country Yellow/Orange/White/Black compound polishing pads
-Buffer used to be a Flex 3401 until someone stole it... Now it is a Harbor Freight DA. $65 well spent.
-Optimum Poli Seal because I have it, it is cheap and works
-Optimum Opti seal rocks for a final wax. Gives a fantastic shine, is super quick to use and doesn't stain rubber trim. No staining is a big reason for using this wax. I hate seeing white residue on trim.
-For general cleaning of plastics and rubber I use Einzit 1Z Cockpit for cleaning and will often finish with a coat of Einzit Gummi Phledge for rubber and 303 Aerospace for hard trim plastic/CF

The other item I want to try is Optimum Opti Coat 2.0. It is a bit pricey, but it is supposed to last for up to about 2 years. If it only lasts one year that would still be damn impressive.

I will have to try more chemical Guys products as everyone always speaks highly of them. Their micro fibers on Amazon are imexpensive and work really well.

Oh forgot to mention Meguiars orange APC for stubborn brake dust on wheels. Melts it right off the wheels and oil residue crap in the engine bay is no match for this APC. I will have to try Iron X. It is cheap enough to give a go

 

[Top Flight]

@junkman.. Try that iron x after you clay bar.. It goes in clear and literally your car will bleed red as it reacts to iron break deposits and other environment fallout come to surface...I have a white Exige its a godsend for light colored paint for sure...

 

[Junkman2008]

My car doesn't contain any iron deposits because I clayed the paint clean when I bought the car and it has been garaged ever since. I also don't use brake pads that leave dust. The Wagner Thermo Quiet pads that I use are dust free and don't stain my wheels at all. That's why I only need soap and water to clean them.

 

[gungriffin]

My car doesn't contain any iron deposits because I clayed the paint clean when I bought the car and it has been garaged ever since. I also don't use brake pads that leave dust. The Wagner Thermo Quiet pads that I use are dust free and don't stain my wheels at all. That's why I only need soap and water to clean them.

Ha ha must be nice to have pads that don't dust... Running Porterfield R4Ss on my primary car right now and it feels like I can see the cloud come up off of my pads.

 

[Junkman2008]

Ha ha must be nice to have pads that don't dust... Running Porterfield R4Ss on my primary car right now and it feels like I can see the cloud come up off of my pads.

Look at the videos in this thread of me on the track. Those Wagner pads stop my car every time. With the way I drive, I need stopping power at a moments notice and those Wagner's do the job. I highly recommend them.