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Hello, I have owned a 05 elise for about a year now. I'm planning to do some work to my elise in a few months and i had a few questions. I plan to upgrade:
1. remove the rear portion of the body to make the engine bay accessable
2. pull the engine, and install the MWR Cyclinder head
3. install an XTSS clutch (maybe)
4. install a TOC Oil Wet-Sump
5. put the engine back in the car.
6. install the BOE REV 400 TVS
7. install the fuel surge tank (maybe)
8. install clam hinge

the built cylinder head is coming with a stage 3 camshaft set, cams already shimmed and installed, the heads will be ported, ferrea dual valve springs and titanium retainers, and ferrea stainless/inconel valves

Thats really what i'm looking at right now, im plan to drive it around a little easy until i have the money/time to upgrade the transmission. My questions are:
-have a forgotten any necessary/rocommended upgrades?
-how long should all of this take? (i have help from 1 friend who has built several cars and as for myself i've mainly worked on motorcycles.)
 

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These are "Home Mechanic" time estimates, your time will vary


1. remove the rear portion of the body to make the engine bay accessable
first time took me about 2 hrs, about 45 min the second time.
2. pull the engine, and install the MWR Cyclinder head
dont know
3. install an XTSS clutch (maybe)
with the engine out, this should be a quick/easy job 1hr, maybe
4. install a TOC Oil Wet-Sump
dont know. I have heard that getting the old pan off can be a pain. I am sure it would be easier with the engine out and on an engine stand.
5. put the engine back in the car.
dont know
6. install the BOE REV 400 TVS
do most of this with the engine out of the car (some of the intake bolts are a pain to get to!!) Took me and a buddy about 12 hrs, drive in to drive out, to install my REV 300 with the engine in the car, including clam on / clam off.
7. install the fuel surge tank (maybe)
dont know, but guessing 1hr, maybe
8. install clam hinge
dont know, but with the clam already off, guessing this will go quickly.


Sounds like the car will be amazing after you get this all done.
turning it into a track rat?
 

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If I could do all of my work over again (very similar). I would pull the motor and do the pistons. Its just not worth the amount of work to not do them. Also, the clutch should not even be a question. This is work you will not want to repeat.
 

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These are "Home Mechanic" time estimates, your time will vary

4. install a TOC Oil Wet-Sump
dont know. I have heard that getting the old pan off can be a pain. I am sure it would be easier with the engine out and on an engine stand.
With the engine out on a stand where you can flip it, especially if you do it with the head off, this should be massively easy. 30 minutes or less unless you're unlucky and it's extra stuck.

A gasket separator is probably worth the small investment - otherwise, you're at a high risk of marring the mating surface when you try to peel up a corner to start.

In the case of the new BOE pans you don't even need to apply gasket maker and torque in steps, since they have an O-ring.

As a time estimate this took me an hour and a half under the car with a mild curse factor. With the engine out I'd imagine it'll go fairly painlessly and take 30 minutes or less.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
These are "Home Mechanic" time estimates, your time will vary


Sounds like the car will be amazing after you get this all done.
turning it into a track rat?
Thanks for the reply very helpful, really trying to figure out how long this will take since i plan to rent out a garage spot at a hobby shop.

Yeah i plan to take it to the track, but before i do i plan to upgrade the transmission, i've heard from several people that 2nd and 3rd gear are pretty easy to destroy w/ >300 HP
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If I could do all of my work over again (very similar). I would pull the motor and do the pistons. Its just not worth the amount of work to not do them. Also, the clutch should not even be a question. This is work you will not want to repeat.
Yeah i know the clutch will go if i dont upgrade, i'm pretty sure i'm going to replace it. What kind of pistons would you put in? I haven't really looked at them.
 

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Sounds like a lot of work, and fun! Should make a really impressive car.

Items 3 and 7 are not maybe's with the Rev400. And as long as the clam is off, now is the time.

You could do this work with the motor in the car. To remove the head, you have to take off the timing chain cover, so you have to take off the belt tensioner, so you will need to remove the right engine mount and jack up the motor about an inch in order to get the belt tensioner bolt to clear the frame. To do the clutch with the motor in the car you would drop the trans, which really calls for a trans jack.

I've pulled the motor for a rebuild, and also dropped just the trans for a new clutch disc, and I'm not sure which is a bigger pain in the butt.

If you are going to pull the motor, by far the easiest way to go about it is to separate it from the trans. Pull out just the motor. Then you can hop in there and just lift out the trans; you won't need a jack for it. After the clutch is done, mate them up and drop the motor/trans in as a unit. You have to tilt them quite a bit so a load leveler is a big help.

Some oil pans pull off pretty easy; some are a real bear.

Good luck and enjoy...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the responses so far, you've all helped me alot.
Another question, what kind of specialty tools specfic to the elise will i need for the job.
 

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** The Enforcer **
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Why MWR head? Jim Clayton head is what I'd be doing.

San
 

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Gamera The Atomic Turtle
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BOE can give you the pointer to Clayton as they install his heads on their race motors. Just ask when you order your REV.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
need some help making a decision trying to decide between a fully loaded MWR cylinder head for $2800 , or a fully loaded BOE built racing engine with JC head for $8500ish. How much more do i get out of the racing engine vs MWR head on stock short block? is it worth the extra money or am i just being paranoid? the build i will have will demand 360whp.
 

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need some help making a decision trying to decide between a fully loaded MWR cylinder head for $2800 , or a fully loaded BOE built racing engine with JC head for $8500ish. How much more do i get out of the racing engine vs MWR head on stock short block? is it worth the extra money or am i just being paranoid? the build i will have will demand 360whp.
I have a friend who put on a Jim Clayton head but on his standard block with the Rev 400 kit. It went really hard until it did a ring land. New block, Mahle pistons, ACT clutch and Jubu 3rd and 4th gears and it is now a real weapon.
 

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The clutch is a must, seen one blow up the last time I was at the track.
I have something fairly similar to what you have in your list (besides the SC)

- Radium Turbo Kit
- New (larger) injectors
- ACT Racing clutch
- Ferrera Valves + retainers
- Bunch of new studs
- Low compression pistons (Mahle)
- Forged rod connectors (MWR)
- Jubu 3rd & 4th gear
- Fidenza Flywheel (kinda useless actually)
- Cosworth .80 head gasket
- GPan
- Radium FST (very important on FI systems)

More importantly though, I also have Nitrons 2-way so that I have my suspensions sorted :)

Hello, I have owned a 05 elise for about a year now. I'm planning to do some work to my elise in a few months and i had a few questions. I plan to upgrade:
1. remove the rear portion of the body to make the engine bay accessable
2. pull the engine, and install the MWR Cyclinder head
3. install an XTSS clutch (maybe)
4. install a TOC Oil Wet-Sump
5. put the engine back in the car.
6. install the BOE REV 400 TVS
7. install the fuel surge tank (maybe)
8. install clam hinge

the built cylinder head is coming with a stage 3 camshaft set, cams already shimmed and installed, the heads will be ported, ferrea dual valve springs and titanium retainers, and ferrea stainless/inconel valves

Thats really what i'm looking at right now, im plan to drive it around a little easy until i have the money/time to upgrade the transmission. My questions are:
-have a forgotten any necessary/rocommended upgrades?
-how long should all of this take? (i have help from 1 friend who has built several cars and as for myself i've mainly worked on motorcycles.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The clutch is a must, seen one blow up the last time I was at the track.
I have something fairly similar to what you have in your list (besides the SC)

- Radium Turbo Kit
- New (larger) injectors
- ACT Racing clutch
- Ferrera Valves + retainers
- Bunch of new studs
- Low compression pistons (Mahle)
- Forged rod connectors (MWR)
- Jubu 3rd & 4th gear
- Fidenza Flywheel (kinda useless actually)
- Cosworth .80 head gasket
- GPan
- Radium FST (very important on FI systems)

More importantly though, I also have Nitrons 2-way so that I have my suspensions sorted :)
Looks like you have a nice setup, how much whp does it put out?

I've decided to buy a built BOE engine instead of going with the MWR cylinder head, mainly because i'm worried about the stock pistons.

For the rest of you viewing this, i'm very interested in the MWR turbo kit. I know it would cost more to tune and i'd need additional parts which doesnt really bother me, the problem is i've been looking and i cant find 1 person who has run an MWR turbo. :scratchhead:
Is there anyone out there?
 

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** The Enforcer **
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Looks like you have a nice setup, how much whp does it put out?

I've decided to buy a built BOE engine instead of going with the MWR cylinder head, mainly because i'm worried about the stock pistons.

For the rest of you viewing this, i'm very interested in the MWR turbo kit. I know it would cost more to tune and i'd need additional parts which doesnt really bother me, the problem is i've been looking and i cant find 1 person who has run an MWR turbo. :scratchhead:
Is there anyone out there?
I think I would steer clear of the MWR turbo kit. I know there was a long thread here somewhere of a disastrous install and little to no satisfaction afterwards.

Found it.
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/1fastmx5s-monkey-wrench-racing-turbo-nightmare-22211/

San
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I would steer clear of the MWR turbo kit. I know there was a long thread here somewhere of a disastrous install and little to no satisfaction afterwards.

Found it.
http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/1fastmx5s-monkey-wrench-racing-turbo-nightmare-22211/

San
Thanks alot for directing me to that thread.

Wow that is quite the horror story, despite the fact that i would be more careful an detailed with my install, i think that thread rules out MWR for me. Not to mention that it seems to be a difficult kit to tune, along with IAT issues above 10 PSI boost on the intercooler provided.

What turbo do most of you run? what's the Whp and how do you get rid of all the heat?
 

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Looks like you have a nice setup, how much whp does it put out?

I've decided to buy a built BOE engine instead of going with the MWR cylinder head, mainly because i'm worried about the stock pistons.

For the rest of you viewing this, i'm very interested in the MWR turbo kit. I know it would cost more to tune and i'd need additional parts which doesnt really bother me, the problem is i've been looking and i cant find 1 person who has run an MWR turbo. :scratchhead:
Is there anyone out there?
The Radium kit is very nice and looks pretty clean once everything is in place.
I have a couple of conservative tunes on the EMS. One with 9PSI of boost and the other with 18PSI of boost. The shop's dyno is an eddy dyno so it reads lower than a dynojet and I was getting about 275RWHP. On a dynojet this should read about 300RWHP but like I said, the tunes are conservative on purpose. Once I can drive the car well enough I might go for more torque/power and push the engine a bit but for now I don't even use the 18PSI tune, only the 9PSI which is prolly around 240-250RWHP.

I don't know much about the MWR Turbo kit but that thread made it look infamous. I bought all my engine/transmission parts from MWR and never had any problem with that but then again, it's only parts. Not service or all made stuff.
 

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Do a radium kit and fab up an air to water intercooler. That's my plan, should start it this weekend. I'm interested in seeing what you decide.
 

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Do a radium kit and fab up an air to water intercooler. That's my plan, should start it this weekend. I'm interested in seeing what you decide.
Given the thread is eight months old I kinda hope he already finished the work and has been enjoying the car too much to post! :)
 
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