The Lotus Cars Community banner

GPan3 v. TOC V1.1

1681 22
Moving along with track prep and it is time for me to make a decision on a baffled oil pan. I am torn between the GPan3 and the TOC V1.1 of which both are comparable in price. Given the experience of this group, I did some searching and didn’t find a comparison so I started this thread. I have added the detailed descriptions below. Give me your thoughts!

GPan3:

Code:
 The gPAN3 is a must if you track your Lotus. This is a direct replacement for your stock pan and will make oil starvation a thing of the past. A heavily-baffled cavity reduces vertical oil slosh. Additionally, the pan has been tweaked for clearance to ease wishbone removal. Oil sensor port has been relocated to the front of the pan to reduce wiring. Optional Turbo oil return port ($45) can be added. The simple, high-quality and beautifully welded gPAN3 is track-focused and easy to install. Works with the stock windage tray and stock dip stick and comes with detailed installation instructions. Data proven performance on track! 

Race Focused Design = Better Performance

Redesigned internal baffles & trap doors keep oil at the pick-up.
Horizontal ledges reduce vertical oil sloshing over baffle cavity
more than gPAN2
Oil isolated in a properly sized 'oil control box' around the pick-up during high-g turns.
Size is key to preventing oil from escaping
Stable normal oil pressure in all situations.
Added oil capacity. Approx 6 liters
No unnecessary features
minimal number of ports to reduce oil leak potential
AiM data logger used to confirm adequate oil pressure on track
see Product Reference for info
Simple, Bolt-In Design = Much Easier Install

Works with stock dip stick.
Locator-studs provided to help line up pan.
Flat flanges.
Perfect, flush fit with engine block.
Flat pan walls means you can easily ratchet bolts onto engine block.
Works with the stock windage tray.
Windage tray prevents oil from sloshing up into the crank.
Works with the stock oil pump & pick-up.
Clearanced to ease wishbone removal
Comes with detailed installation instructions.
Beautiful Welds = Strong & Good Looking

Meticulously TIG welded inside & out.
Completely sealed.
TIG welded drain plug.
O-ring gasket for a better seal.
Machined seat for improved seal
TIG welded 1/8" NPT fitting.
For use with data acquisition sensors & other accessories.
Relocated to frontside for wiring ease
Full warranty on all workmanship claims.
Aluminum Construction = Lightweight & Strong

Built with 5052 Aluminum.
3/8" billet aluminum rail.


Model Compatibility

Any Toyota 2ZZGE engine
May not fit S260 unless factory rear subframe stiffner is removed or modified
Other

gPAN3 Drain Plug O-Ring
dash-10 AN Plug.
ID = .791" (20.09mm)
OD = .945" (24.00mm)
Thickness = .1" (2.57 mm)
Total Oil Control(TOC)V 1.1:

Code:
Our TOC (Total Oil Control) Wet sump oil pan is a great addition for the street or track car looking for superior control of the oil in the engine while increasing the volume as well. 

This pan is a sure fire solution to mitigating the likelihood of a loss of oil pressure in the motor for the track day enthusiast or racer. The additional oil capacity will help to prolong oil life and stabilize oil temperature.

Additional features include

BOE Kerropak oil pan gasket for easy removal/ maintenance. (Other pans on the market require RTV gasket maker to seal the pan to the block). 
Additional Windage tray that works with the OEM tray on the block
"Anti-Climb" walls inside the pan
Baffling
One direction "trap doors" within the collection box in the pan.
All Aluminum Construction with expert TIG welding
Magnetic drain plug with o-ring seal
Oil Temperature port on firewall side of the pan

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
Honestly doing think it matters much either way. They'll both probably do the job just fine. I've used the boe pan for years now and have had no issues. And had no issues getting accurate readings with the stock dipstick.

I think the boe pan comes with a gasket which is preferable (in my opinion) over the rtv sealant.

I know the gpan will work with their substiffy... If that's ever a consideration for you.

There's also the moroso pans which occasionally have quality control issues of leaking at the weld joints due to very small pinholes.
 

·
2006 Exige
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
I plan on installing the shear panel that Eldon recommends.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Which shear panel is that?

I have a Gpan v1 and the Seriously Lotus shear panel fits fine with that.

I wish BOE offered that gasket a long time ago. I had to use gasket maker. You can always buy the BOE gasket to use with whatever oil pan you end up with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,860 Posts
I plan on installing the shear panel that Eldon recommends.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I really don't think you can go wrong either way.

Just don't overdo the rtv sealant. My sister overdid it on her 2zz. It got sucked up and clogged the oil pickup/pump. Needless to say, the engine was toast.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,511 Posts
My big complaint with gPan v1 is you have to drop the pan to remove the forward lower bolt. I understand that was corrected in following versions with a relief. Not sure if they added more tab/boss area in one corner to assist in prying/starting to seperate if using RTV. It was a bitch to get apart to do suspension refresh.
 

·
2006 Exige
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
My big complaint with gPan v1 is you have to drop the pan to remove the forward lower bolt. I understand that was corrected in following versions with a relief. Not sure if they added more tab/boss area in one corner to assist in prying/starting to seperate if using RTV. It was a bitch to get apart to do suspension refresh.
I'm planning on doing a suspension refresh in a year or so and I am aware of my upcoming gpan v1 problem.

I think someone cut the lower bolt off and then put the new one in from the other side. I haven't looked at it in awhile so I don't know if that'll work. I know for sure I don't want to drop the oil pan but I might not have a choice. I have a BOE gasket in my supply box though.
 

·
He's on fire!
Joined
·
3,576 Posts
I keep telling people that its not necessary to drop the gpan v1, or cut bolts, to remove the front lower bolt. A little screw jack can push the engine a few mm out of the way such that the bolt will clear. Later versions of gpan have a relief cutout, so won't have that problem.

A problem I do have that I don't know if its fixed (or if it is an issue on the TOC) is that after gpan installation it is a pain in the butt to check my oil because the end of the dipstick hits the windage tray or whatever that metal baffle on top is. I've tried bending the end every which way and I still takes 4-6 attempts before I'm comfortable I've got an accurate reading. It looks like the design is slightly changed, so I am guessing its probably no longer an issue.

My big complaint with gPan v1 is you have to drop the pan to remove the forward lower bolt. I understand that was corrected in following versions with a relief. Not sure if they added more tab/boss area in one corner to assist in prying/starting to seperate if using RTV. It was a bitch to get apart to do suspension refresh.
I'm planning on doing a suspension refresh in a year or so and I am aware of my upcoming gpan v1 problem.

I think someone cut the lower bolt off and then put the new one in from the other side. I haven't looked at it in awhile so I don't know if that'll work. I know for sure I don't want to drop the oil pan but I might not have a choice. I have a BOE gasket in my supply box though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gotham1

·
2006 Exige
Joined
·
1,415 Posts
I keep telling people that its not necessary to drop the gpan v1, or cut bolts, to remove the front lower bolt. A little screw jack can push the engine a few mm out of the way such that the bolt will clear. Later versions of gpan have a relief cutout, so won't have that problem.

A problem I do have that I don't know if its fixed (or if it is an issue on the TOC) is that after gpan installation it is a pain in the butt to check my oil because the end of the dipstick hits the windage tray or whatever that metal baffle on top is. I've tried bending the end every which way and I still takes 4-6 attempts before I'm comfortable I've got an accurate reading.
Now that you mention it, I do remember you talking about that awhile back. I don't remember everything I read, but I'm now making strong mental notes about this. That will work for sure. Thanks.

My gpan never had the problem you are describing. In and out same as stock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Which shear panel is that?

I have a Gpan v1 and the Seriously Lotus shear panel fits fine with that.

I wish BOE offered that gasket a long time ago. I had to use gasket maker. You can always buy the BOE gasket to use with whatever oil pan you end up with.
The Seriously lotus shear panel is the one, light and rigid.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,511 Posts
I keep telling people that its not necessary to drop the gpan v1, or cut bolts, to remove the front lower bolt. A little screw jack can push the engine a few mm out of the way such that the bolt will clear. Later versions of gpan have a relief cutout, so won't have that problem.

A problem I do have that I don't know if its fixed (or if it is an issue on the TOC) is that after gpan installation it is a pain in the butt to check my oil because the end of the dipstick hits the windage tray or whatever that metal baffle on top is. I've tried bending the end every which way and I still takes 4-6 attempts before I'm comfortable I've got an accurate reading. It looks like the design is slightly changed, so I am guessing its probably no longer an issue.
I was aware of the jacking work around but because PO told me what a PIA it was getting the innovative motor mounts in and the fact that the engine has 25K miles on it since rebuild I was curious of the inside condition. Like you I was curious about the dipstick but more to see how far in pan it went as there was another dipstick in the parts box and he never had the dipstick tube seated properly so I was concerned about oil level being proper.
I had resolved the dipstick tube being seated by removing the oversized o ring put the proper one on and visually made sure it was seated then made a extension for the tube bracket to keep in place.
This was a early REV300 so I wasn't sure if dipstick tube was OEM or what.
The bottom of the pan looked great no metallic particles just a very thing grey non magnetic sludge.
Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was aware of the jacking work around but because PO told me what a PIA it was getting the innovative motor mounts in and the fact that the engine has 25K miles on it since rebuild I was curious of the inside condition. Like you I was curious about the dipstick but more to see how far in pan it went as there was another dipstick in the parts box and he never had the dipstick tube seated properly so I was concerned about oil level being proper.
I had resolved the dipstick tube being seated by removing the oversized o ring put the proper one on and visually made sure it was seated then made a extension for the tube bracket to keep in place.
This was a early REV300 so I wasn't sure if dipstick tube was OEM or what.
The bottom of the pan looked great no metallic particles just a very thing grey non magnetic sludge.
View attachment 1302081
I see the you are insulating the bottom of the oil pan to encourage initial oil temps to rise quickly. Are you doing this in lieu of the Mishimoto sandwich plate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,511 Posts
I see the you are insulating the bottom of the oil pan to encourage initial oil temps to rise quickly. Are you doing this in lieu of the Mishimoto sandwich plate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That was temp for early this year picked up plate and parts and plan on changing over when I change all fluids this winter.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gotham1

·
Premium Member
2005 Elise LSS Saffron Yellow
Joined
·
1,141 Posts
I see the you are insulating the bottom of the oil pan to encourage initial oil temps to rise quickly. Are you doing this in lieu of the Mishimoto sandwich plate?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When you measure oil temperature, you find that the airflow around the pan cools the oil quite a bit at speed, because oil temperature will actually go down from a hot idle to on-road, even though the engine is working harder. On the track this might be a desirable phenomenon, but for on-road use in moderate temperatures, it undoes your work if you're trying to keep the oil warm.

Another approach worth trying might be to plug/tape over the NACA ducts under the pan, just leaving the one over by the transmission open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, GPan3 and the Felpro gasket for a 1zz for the win. I found someone selling on the LT parts for sale so Christmas came early. I’m leaving my options open on an aftermarket oil cooler (Laminova) and pairing up the pan with a thermostatic Mishimoto sandwich plate.

Next up, air/water SC Intercooler with the Pro Alloy drop-in up front.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top