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Discussion Starter #1
Two separate questions for Elise:

1. Can you use graphite lock lube in the Elise ignition key lock? My key takes some effort to remove from the ignition and I thought about luing with graphite lock lube for car locks.

2. What is a good brand and model torque wrench for working on the Elise? I have a very crude Craftsmen 1/2" drive I use for torquing lug nuts. Seems a bit brute for the Elise.
 

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Tq wrench is fine, but if old get it recalibrated.

Best for locks is liquid with graphite in it, gets everywhere and then liquid evaporates so doesn't attract dirt/dust. Amazon.
 

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I recently bought a CDI 3/8" drive, 5-75 pound torque wrench. Set to use it this weekend, appears to be of good quality and it had good reviews.
 

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Torch wrenches can bring you to grief if they are out of calibration. If I were going to start buying torch wrenches, I would also buy myself a Snap-on Torque Wrench Calibration Checker. But that's just me.


 

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some math does a body good.
if you have the weight, you can check the torque across a range...

 

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I checked my 30 year made in China cheap torque wrench on our calibration set up at work. Was within 1 ft-lb of the torque setting. I checked it at 80 ft-lbs as it's in-between the torques I use it for the various cars I have.
Harbor freight has a newer professional grade torque wrench line. They aren't cheap for Harbor Freight. I bought a 3/8 drive because it's small and easy to pack in the Lotus for trips. Quality seems pretty good. It's no Snap On but it's probably at least half the price.
 

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Two separate questions for Elise:

1. Can you use graphite lock lube in the Elise ignition key lock? My key takes some effort to remove from the ignition and I thought about luing with graphite lock lube for car locks.

2. What is a good brand and model torque wrench for working on the Elise? I have a very crude Craftsmen 1/2" drive I use for torquing lug nuts. Seems a bit brute for the Elise.
Was it a Craftsman 1019 Laboratory model?
 
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I recently bought a CDI 3/8" drive, 5-75 pound torque wrench. Set to use it this weekend, appears to be of good quality and it had good reviews.
Since that's lower than the torque required for the lug nuts, I would not recommend it.
 

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cyow5 , right, I wanted one that that I could go down to clutch pressure plate torques without feeling like the wrench was being used at the very end of it's range. I've got a 1/2" drive for lug nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cyow5 , right, I wanted one that that I could go down to clutch pressure plate torques without feeling like the wrench was being used at the very end of it's range. I've got a 1/2" drive for lug nuts.
Thanks. Your idea of two wrenches with different ranges appeals to me.
 

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Precision Instruments (PI) split beam is the way to go. All mechanical with little maintenance/re-calibration needed if ever. I mostly use it for my wheels and I like how I can keep it at 80 ft lbs without having to dial it back to zero after every use like common dial in torque wrenches. If you don't know what I'm taking about with regard to setting back a torque wrench back to zero, I recommend doing some research on the different types of torque wrenches.

The PI wrench I have and love is this one: Amazon.com: Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head: Automotive

I think they are OEM for Snap-On, but I can be wrong.
 

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Precision Instruments (PI) split beam is the way to go. All mechanical with little maintenance/re-calibration needed if ever. I mostly use it for my wheels and I like how I can keep it at 80 ft lbs without having to dial it back to zero after every use like common dial in torque wrenches. If you don't know what I'm taking about with regard to setting back a torque wrench back to zero, I recommend doing some research on the different types of torque wrenches.

The PI wrench I have and love is this one: Amazon.com: Precision Instruments PREC3FR250F Silver 1/2" Drive Split Beam Torque Wrench with Flex Head: Automotive

I think they are OEM for Snap-On, but I can be wrong.
Agree. I work several wknds a year with an SCCA race team and we use Snap On split beams. They're easier to set than a micrometer-type wrench, reliable and don't have to turned back to zero when put away. If you overtighten with a split beam you're using it wrong. Precision Instruments used to manufacture for Snap On but I believe they stopped around 2003. Snap On is its own brand now and they have a subsidiary, CDI, who make basically identical wrenches. Precision Instruments are fine quality split beam wrenches for the money, and USA-made. CDI or Snap On units are more costly by a factor of 3-5x unless you buy used.
 
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