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Discussion Starter #1
The fronts of both headlight pods on my '83 are below the level of the rest of the car when closed. I tried the search function but could only come up with either raising the headlight manually, or adjusting (aiming) the lights themselves. I considered using the manual lift knob to even them out, but don't think that's what the knob is for and didn't want to do anything till I checked here.

How can I raise them so they're level with the rest of the front end?
 

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My 87 keep drooping in the pod ( mostly likely due to the heavy GenSSi LED lights)

There is a small rotary knob on the motor. I believe when the car is turned off, you rotate it and it allows you to level the pod.

I did this a few months back and it ‘worked’ but they are dropping again. I’ll try again this week and take a video of how it worked. Originally turning the knob did not work but some how I did something different and it worked as expected.


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There are stops that can be adjusted to set the open and closed positions. If the rubber on the stops is missing it can cause the pods to go a little further than when the rubber was there. The knob on the back of the motor is so if the motor (or the motor circuit) fails you can still manually raise the headlights. If the rubber is missing you can get little round stick-on door bumpers and put them on the stops. While you are working on the pods make sure the drains are clear and lubricate the pivot points.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Note: I've not had to adjust my headlights ... but:

The headlight height is controlled by a pushrod attached to the motor, at least on my '89 model. See the attached picture of the pushrod, with jam nuts indicated. If your setup is the same, you need to make the pushrod a little longer so the pods sit higher.

Loosen the jam nut(s) and you should be able to adjust the length. I don't know if you can just turn the rod or if you need to disconnect the pushrod from the motor and spin the rod end. If you do need to disconnect the pushrod from the motor, make sure you support the pod first! If you don't, it will drop all the way down and be difficult to pull back up.

Hope this helps!

Steve.
 

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BritinNY has it right. You adjust the resting position on the headlight pod by rotating the control rod once you release the jam nuts. A couple of other things to pay attention to regarding your headlight pods. The strange and unique bearings are often bad and you should check to see if these bearings are in good order. They are available from JAE but they are not cheap nor are they fun to replace. If they are in bad shape you will have a lot of jiggle when the lights are up and operating. When the lights are closed if you can place your hand on the closed light and wiggle the pod then your bearings are likely bad. A second problem area with the pods is that the motor control arm is attached to the back of the pod by a plate which receives the adjustable control arm. The plate, unfortunately is much too small and given the weight of the pod assembly and the force exerted on the pod when it is in the up position the back wall of the pod is often fractured allowing for more wiggling and jiggling. In order to fix this you need to repair the fiberglass fracture and then fabricate a new back plate much bigger than the old one so that the load on the pod back wall is far better distributed. When I first got my car the headlights bounced around so radically it was just crazy - oncoming traffic thought I was trying to signal them often times. Until I addressed the pod bearings, backing plate, and new Heim joints for the control rod I could not get a proper closing level. However, once all that was addressed the headlights functioned very well, were extremely stable, and closed with a proper level relative to the surrounding body panels.

Tom
 

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While you do adjust the pushrod (it is like a turnbuckle with left hand and right hand threads) You MUST adjust the bolts that the ends of the psuhrod stop against. I can see in the picture the rubber bumper is missing, it is the bolt under the middle of the pushrod link. There is one for up and one for down. Before you mess with the pushrod (which is probably adjusted correctly) get some rubber bumpers on the heads of the stop bolts. The way the system works, the motor runs the pods till it hits the stop. The module senses the sudden increase in current and shuts the motor off. Changing the length of the pushrod won't change the position, only adjusting the stop will (and putting the rubber bumper back). Before making any adjustments you do have to make sure all of the pivots and joints are not worn out and lubricated so everything moves smoothly. The best way is to temporarily remove the pushrod from the motor and move the pod up and down by hand. The pivots for the pods double as pivots for the bonnet. Lots of fun to do as you have to line a few things up at once to assemble.
David Teitelbaum
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for pointing that out carbuff. Yeah everyone- I have a G car.


There are stops that can be adjusted to set the open and closed positions. If the rubber on the stops is missing it can cause the pods to go a little further than when the rubber was there. The knob on the back of the motor is so if the motor (or the motor circuit) fails you can still manually raise the headlights. If the rubber is missing you can get little round stick-on door bumpers and put them on the stops. David Teitelbaum
Thanks for the tip on the rubber stops. I'm with you that the knob on the back is for manually raising & lowering the pod and not for adjustment.
 

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The Lucas TR7 motors used on G cars have positioning contacts inside them. I know Jenna had to replace one of her motors.

Might just require a bit of cleaning inside. Misaligned pods are a common issue.
 

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The Lucas TR7 motors used on G cars have positioning contacts inside them. I know Jenna had to replace one of her motors.

Might just require a bit of cleaning inside. Misaligned pods are a common issue.
If you use the TR& light pods you will have to reverse the plug end so they work in sync. You will also have to adjust your adjustment rods as the TR7 motors stop about 1/4 inch lower then the G car motors.:nerd:
 

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Here's my video of readjusting the 87 Giugiaro Turbo Esprit headlight pod to be level with the body.

If you can't view by directly clicking, please copy/paste the URL into another window. Not sure why that happens on some videos here.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Eddie- I tried doing that a couple days ago but wasn't pushing in on the knob:facepalm. The only thing that happened was the pod rotated up and down like when flashing the high beams.
 

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That video is incorrect. When you cycle the headlights the pod will still sit below the rest of the bodywork. You need to adjust the rod with the heim joints on it to get the pod to sit flush with the bodywork.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That video is incorrect. When you cycle the headlights the pod will still sit below the rest of the bodywork. You need to adjust the rod with the heim joints on it to get the pod to sit flush with the bodywork.
Thanks. The all British show is coming up, so I'll probably just twist the knob once I get there for the show and permanently fix it when I have more time.
 

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That video is incorrect. When you cycle the headlights the pod will still sit below the rest of the bodywork. You need to adjust the rod with the heim joints on it to get the pod to sit flush with the bodywork.


That’s not how my 87 works. And it is different from what I can tell than Stevens. I drove last night home and cycled the headlights. It stayed in alignment.


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