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Once you let the hot water into the heater core, I imagine it would take 30-60 minutes for it to cool back down.
Experimentation today leads me to believe it only takes 10 minutes or so.

Anyway, 9 months after buying and receiving the kit, I installed it today. I figured it would take a skilled person 3 hours. So I gave myself 6. For a variety of reasons, it took closer to 15 hours over 2 days. Some of the time spent was driving to various stores.

Reason 1 (guesstimate 3 hours lost): Failure to follow the instructions on the CD that came in the kit. Whoops. I didn't realize that there were variations. This thread has several versions in it.

Reason 2 (guesstimate 3 hours lost): Lotus inconsistent use of wire colors. When Tonywa28 mentions "2 yellow wires" near the ignition switch, I found 5.

Reason 3 (guesstimate 1 hour lost): Not having all the right tools, in particular a multimeter for troubleshooting.

Reason 4 (guesstimate 2 hours lost): Having to put my variation on the kit. I decided early on to make the switch "fit in" to interior, instead of concealing it. I didn't do so well. The idea was to get a 3 button switch panel that the driving lights kit uses and build my switch into that. There are two primary obstacles to that:

a) The light switches that come with the car are MOMENTARY. The logic is controlled by a computer. The switch just provides a momentary pulse of input. The kit requires an actual on-off switch. I experimented with a switch (thanks, Fred) and some logic pieces, but it turned into a huge hassle.

b) The second obstacle was finding or creating a gel for a light to shine through to the right of the button, to match the other gels above.

You can see the results below. The good news: I can buy a button (for $60!) to match the stock button. The other good news is that there I think I can replace the stock gels with similar (but different colored) lights. I think white for headlights and red for parking lights would work.



 

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Oh yeah...the light I installed interferes with the operation of the solenoid if placed in series . You have to do it in parallel.
 

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Yes and no. The head and parking light switch are momentary, as is the AC switch.

However, the switch used for the installation of the factory Driving Lights is an on/off switch, not a momentary. One of them could be used...
Fred Zust sent me one...it is a momentary switch, pretty sure after testing. See my other threads about switches for a possible solution suggested by jim-clayton..
 

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Dumb question. The heater bypass you are are describing is mounted up front, bypassing just the heater matrix, dropping the vent temps about 5 deg.

Looking at the diagram, and not the car, it seems like it would not be that difficult to move the bypass back to the engine bay, and not run hot water through the side pods and/or the heater core.

What am I overlooking?
The heater core acts as part of the "emergency overheat system". In simple terms, the car will pump fluid through the heater core at 230 F. - if the car is turned off (as I understand it). There are mentions of this behavior on the board. Maybe in this thread.
 
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