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TekZones said:
Just a question which I think I know the answer but have to ask. Is there any way to access the interior of the side rails without removing body panels or other major assemblies? My thoughts are to possibly use a reflective (solar) blanket with injectable foam that solidifies like some companies use to ship fragile items like computer monitors. The stuff is really light weight and and be molded to some extent. Even a 1/2 to 1 inch barrier would creat a huge insulating factor. Estimated total weight would be about 1-2 pounds. Thoughts? Coments?
Would it affect the structural integrity of the tub to lift the sill covers and drill a 1/4" hole for the foam fill tube? I just hope you don't have to replace the oil cooler lines after you do that.

IIRC the oil cooler lines enter and exit the tub visibly where the wheel well covers are. Maybe access is possible from the ends.
 

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I finally got around to doing the kit install this afternoon/evening. Clearly I have put more than 3 hours into the process. The installation is a snap, but my problem is the bleeding. The engine is definitely heating up quickly. The fans are coming on and I can hear the heat soak pump running after turning off the engine. I have not bothered to drive the car, just running it at idle.

Apparently, I have no water flowing through the valve. I have triple checked the plumbing and believe that I have the hoses in the correct pairings. Water is flowing out of both bleed valves. I tried bleeding the valve inlet hose.

I will have to wait until tomorrow when I can get more water wetter for the reservoir.

Anyone have experiences that I may have missed a step?
 

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madguppy said:
I did mine this week also...when u say the engine is heating up rapidly...how hot is yours getting? Mine with get to 192-194 and the fans kick in...she just sits around 190.
I was seeing temps over 200 before I would shut it down. Radiator fans would come on high.

madguppy said:
I had trouble with the bleeding also...I could never find the front bleed valve so I just gave up on it...figured I would just keep an eye on the temp. I just drove her about 40 miles today on the highway...with the wetter water she stayed around 184 and the temp from the vents was between 45-50.
I was afraid to drive it so I was just running it idle in the garage. I found the front bleeder valve reachable without removing the front wheel liner. Had to use an offset screwdriver to loosen it the first time but then with a little bit uncomfortable manuevering I could open and close it from above.

madguppy said:
Am I supposed to turn off the bypass when I shut off the car?..I figured the vacumn line would lose pressure and it would turn off by itself enabling the heat pump to circulate if it needed.
I used a power source the turns off with ignition. I think I have a problem if the key is left in though because it still runs the radio.
 

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Coolant is finally flowing through the valve and thus the heater. Don't know what I did other than going throught the bleeding process 4 times this morning besides twice last night.

Tony, :bow: the kit is amazing. :up: * 10
 
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