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A few reports of coolant leak at the valve because the worm drive hose clamp got loose.
I used 7/8 constant tension hose clamps. hose clamps


The plastic universal vacuum tee I got was too small for the brake booster hose.
A metal 2mm-6mm-12mm Tee 3-Way Brass Tee was perfect.
Vacuum Tee

Pig tail for the EGR solenoid valve

I made an extra control box that controls the EGR solenoid by the flap actuator control voltage, I fixed it behind the wiper motor and it got in the motion path of the wiper arm. The wiper motor got very hot because it was stuck at the wrong place.
Verify your wiring and vacuum lines are not interfering with the wiper before you button up everything.
 

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A few reports of coolant leak at the valve because the worm drive hose clamp got loose.
I used 7/8 constant tension hose clamps. hose clamps


The plastic universal vacuum tee I got was too small for the brake booster hose.
A metal 2mm-6mm-12mm Tee 3-Way Brass Tee was perfect.
Vacuum Tee

Pig tail for the EGR solenoid valve

I made an extra control box that controls the EGR solenoid by the flap actuator control voltage, I fixed it behind the wiper motor and it got in the motion path of the wiper arm. The wiper motor got very hot because it was stuck at the wrong place.
Verify your wiring and vacuum lines are not interfering with the wiper before you button up everything.
It's actually the valve itself that can leak, not just the clamp. I replaced my valve after it developed a leak (and you could see if coming out near the actuator), but I can't remember exactly what the new one is. I haven't put enough miles on it to evaluate reliability anyways. There are some other designs that are electrically operated instead of vacuum, so that's probably the cleaner approach
 

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I noticed the air was still a little warmer than ambient when the bypass valve was activated.
I checked the bypass valve after a drive, and found the 2 hoses to the heater core is a little warm. It is about 110F, so a lot cooler than the 190F circulation hoses.

The valve is the Motorcraft YG350 one.
Anyone else noticed the bypassed side a little warm? The valve's lever is sucked to the bottom when it's activated.
 

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From touching the hose clamps of hoses to and from the heat core, I think there is a little bit of hot coolant circulating to the heater core.
Makes me wonder if I got a defective valve, or a little un-diverted flow is expected.
 

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Quick question about the wiring... the instructions say to ground the black wire and take the other one into the cockpit. I have a generic harness for the VS12 EGR switch with two black wires. I'm not sure if putting in reverse polarity will damage the switch so I figured I'd ask which pin is ground?
1257661
 
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