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TekZones said:
Just a question which I think I know the answer but have to ask. Is there any way to access the interior of the side rails without removing body panels or other major assemblies? My thoughts are to possibly use a reflective (solar) blanket with injectable foam that solidifies like some companies use to ship fragile items like computer monitors. The stuff is really light weight and and be molded to some extent. Even a 1/2 to 1 inch barrier would creat a huge insulating factor. Estimated total weight would be about 1-2 pounds. Thoughts? Coments?
Would it affect the structural integrity of the tub to lift the sill covers and drill a 1/4" hole for the foam fill tube? I just hope you don't have to replace the oil cooler lines after you do that.

IIRC the oil cooler lines enter and exit the tub visibly where the wheel well covers are. Maybe access is possible from the ends.
 

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Thanks again Tony! I'm looking forward to doing this mod and trying it out in humid Houston. I've signed up on your waiting list.

John
 

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JnC said:
I may be making a bad assumption, but if the water in the heater core loop is as hot as the water in the radiator loop, wouldn't you be cutting the amount of hoses running hot water by half?

Or is the amount of heat generated by the engine now fully transferred to the radiator loop, and the net dissipation from hose to chassis hardly changed?
I think that you have it right in the second part - there is still a total amount of heat that will be transfered to the front of the car. You would save a little bit of surface area of warm pipes that radiate heat, but not much. Additionally, the radiator pipes are much larger in diameter than the heater pipes. I don't think it would make a noticeable difference in sill temperatures if you bypassed at the engine instead of up front. But you'd have to actually do it and measure it (or do an awful lot of calculations) to know for sure.
 

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Raindem said:
What level of difficulty are we talking about for this mod? Does it require clam removal?

No, you can get to this from the front access panels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
About 10 people have already contacted me for kits

I'm surprised, 10 requests in less than 24 hours, kind of a mini-poll of the sorta desperate.....so I'm starting to get parts together for 25 kits. Ordered the bypass valves today. Tripped over to the local electronic surplus outfit to get wire, female connectors for solenoid, heat shrink, and some other hardware. I'm thinking it won't cost more than $95 for the whole shebang including shipping (hopefully closer to $85) . I got a good buy on the valves in quantity that I will pass on in the price. Price will vary on whether you want Redline Water Wetter or not. It would probably be better for me if you just get it locally, it's readily available at most any parts house and totally optional (I use it and like it). Doesn't make sense for me to buy it and have you pay me to ship it to you.

The only open item I know of is the switch in the cockpit. This is very personal on what switch you want and where you mount it. I'm thinking of just taking it off the parts list and deduct $. I will supply the wiring unterminated on the switch end and send along crimp-on connectors so you can "express yourself" through switch choices and mountings. If you don't want to hunt around for a switch and like the mount I did in my car, I can certainly get you that switch. Just let me know in a response to my upcoming email.

Good to hear from Tim M. He's had some good insight earlier in the thread. I latched on to some of his observations.

I will email everyone that's contacted me by Friday with a final price and availability date. I'll ask for a reply with commitment and whether you want Water Wetter and the switch I mentioned above. I'll set up PayPal by then too.

Thanks.
 

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Those people with the early "non-pre-wired" cars that added the Driving Lights now have a good use for the three switch panel and extra switch (probably need a relay though).:)
 

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Tonywa28 said:
I have a couple of observations and opinions about the variance found in the thread concerning AC performance.

1) The AC is undersized for the southern or other very hot and/or humid parts of the US. This opinion is also held by 3 different Lotus techs and one customer service advisor at the two dealers I have information on. Weak AC for the US market is something the European cars have struggled with for decades. Several aftermarket companies used to exist that just made Porsche 911 air conditioning upgrades. I never have heard of a general lack of heating in a European car. They design with their own climate in mind. So do we.
The older 911s had an AC system that was even worse than the one in the Elise and that's really saying something. Here is one of those companies that fixed that sorry excuse for an AC system:
http://www.griffiths.com/porsche/ac/ice/index.html

Too bad the elise is such a low volume car or more companies would take an interest in fixing its shortcomings.

The 911s heating left a lot to be desired as well, but only when temperatures got close to zero degrees. It seemed like every 5 degrees would reduce the heater's effectiveness by 50%...something the elise has in common with the porsches as well.
 

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When all of you finish installing your kits, I'd love to hear some testimonials once the kits are installed....and get see some creative solutions regarding switch placement. I've been able to just get by with factory AC, but only because I drive to work before 9 and go home when the sun is setting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
recent posters looking for kits - please send me an email

so I have a clean way to carry on a dialog about the kits.

[email protected]


Thanks! Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Joetz - 911

Agreed. I had an 83 SC with AC that was just as bad as the Elise. I was always glistening when I arrived at work, or on a date, etc......it was a chick magnet however, so many things were tolerated. I needed all the help I could get.:shrug: Didn't get to really check out the heater much here in central FL.
 

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I will be definately hitting you up for a kit as I share your pain here in Orlando, Did you source any of your parts from Sky-craft? I love that place :)
I will shoot you an email and hopefully we can hook-up so I can see this creation of yours!
Nick
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
ZTEC - Skycraft...OHYEAH!

That's the "electronic surplus" store I was referring to in previous post. They've even got a website now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I just sent out a kit status to all the folks that I BELEIVE are on the list. If you expected an email, but didn't get one, contact me now.
[email protected]
Thanks, Tony

PS - Rob is installing a bypass this weekend, I look forward to hearing his results.
 
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I responded to Tony... I will probably be the next "guinea pig" install being that I am about 15 minutes from him... just gotta set a time.
 
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