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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks

I'm installing my Kenwood sub/amp onto the rear panel today. I need to remove the rear panel to do so. Thus, I need to remove the harness bar.

The vBulletin forums never allow one to search for 3-letter words, so I cannot search for harness "bar". My searches have come up with nothing about this.

How do you remove the harness bar? I know I read somewhere that you unbolt both ends, slide it to one side (without hitting the clam) and then slide it out of the panel. Then the panel just comes right out after a few screws(hopefully).

The only bolt I find for the factory harness bar seems to be INSIDE the bar...each end of the bar has a "T". The bolt seems to be inside the "T", like this: (warning crude drawing approaching)
(rear)
-------------------| <---bolt in here, head is exposed at rear


How am I supposed to get to this bolt? I can't get a tool in there, unless I'm missing something. Is this the right bolt? Can I remove the speaker "shroud" to gain better access? This plastic "shroud" seems to be riveted in and not removable.

Thanks in advance. I'm mid-install and can't continue until I get this info. I'll keep tinkering but would have to have to put the seats back in and start over another day.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Ok, I found this from CodyMac:

remove roof
remove seats (loosen seats and unbolt bottom seat belt attachments from them)
pop the screens off the speaker covers (at least, on the Blaupunkts)
unscrew your speakers and remove them
cut a 1/2" or 13mm deepwell socket down to fit, when attached to a 3/8" ratchet, between the bulkhead and down into the end tubing (wells) where the bolt attaches the bar to the rollhoop - (you'll have to play around a bit to find the combination that fits - a short socket is too short and a deepwell is too long).
working through the speaker holes, unbolt the bar on both ends, being careful not to lose the washer that goes between the bar and the rollhoop (see illustration) - the bolts are coated with threadlocker.
slide the bar to one side, into the clam on one end with the opposite end in the speaker pod, pull the free end towards you and out through the door.
remove the "cupholder" at the back of the shifter tunnel.
unbolt the upper seatbelt mounting points
remove the four screwed in clips along the top edge of the rear panel
push down slightly on the rear panel along the bottom of the rear glass while pushing the edges near the doors and seatbelts towards the back of the car so they'll clear the roll hoop cover (this will be obvious and much easier than it sounds)
unclip the dome light and remove the panel
the speaker pods are riveted to the rear panel with plastic rivets (single use)
Is there a simpler solution that someone has figured out? I really have to get a 13mm deep socket and then cut it down? Is this what Lotus does to remove this bolt? Seems like there should be something for this without having to cut sockets. It wouldn't be the first time I've had to do this...but jeez why didn't they use an allen socket bolt for this? It would have reached so much easier.

Starting to wonder if this is worth the surmounting effort. I mean, I like this little Kenwood KSC sub/amp.. it's perfect for our cars. But I don't know if it's good enough to be going through all this. Hopefully someone here has an easier solution, or has found something to work better for themseves.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, no big deal that no one responded. I gave up. It occured to me that I'm not working on a Firebird..it's a Lotus, and it's stupid to try to do so much modification just to install this little subwoofer that in all likelihood will probably die in a year or two and need replaced (no doubt, with a different install/bolt/wiring layout, even if it is the same product from the same company...like Alpine does).

I managed to get it behind my seat pretty well, realizing (once the seats were out) that the seat has an inset center portion. Installing this sub/amp vertically allows it to sit within this space. I have a piece of foam between the seat and the sub amp, to prevent damage and movement. It's all tight now.
 

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Any updates on this? I too wish to remove my rear plastic panel but the OEM harness bar seems be in the way. I have looked at all the threads I can find about it but I wish there was more illustration about how remove and reinstall the harness bar back into its original location.
 

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Trendy,

The hardest part is getting to the bolts that fasten the harness bar. Cody's instructions are really the only way to remove the bar aside from removing the rear clam.

If you have a copy of the Elise/Exige parts list you will be able to see the way the bar is fastened to the roll bar. If you don't, PM me your email address and sometime tomorrow or Sat I'll email you the picture with detailed instructions on how I get mine in/out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I still say Lotus must have some sort Keebler-elf designed, magically delicious u-shaped wrench they use to get to those bolts.
 

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Is there a simpler solution that someone has figured out? I really have to get a 13mm deep socket and then cut it down? Is this what Lotus does to remove this bolt? Seems like there should be something for this without having to cut sockets. It wouldn't be the first time I've had to do this...but jeez why didn't they use an allen socket bolt for this? It would have reached so much easier.
You might be able to use a u-joint or short extension to get in there but if you can't figure it out with what's in your toolbox, I'd suggest going ahead an cutting down a socket as it only take about five minutes to do so.

To search for a short term, place a plus sign in from of the term and an asterisk after:
+bar*
 

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if any of you no longer want the factory harness bar I'll swap with you. I have a Sector V Force bar, much easier to install and remove. I'm running without a rear panel now so thats not a problem.
 

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FYI

You can search a three-letter word by typing a * after the word.....so if you search harness bar* you should have success. I just tried it for titles only and got 51 hits.
 

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I've removed mine three times now. Sector 111 old bar, made just like the factory one.

I put a deep 3/8's 13mm with a swivel on the nut then put the wrench on that. All through the speaker holes. It's not that difficult to remove, now putting back on and getting the holes alligned is a different story.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thx for the search tips guys. I've been using these forums forever now and I still didn't know about that. I did not know wildcards worked. Thats cool.
 
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