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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have run into a problem with my S4s rear brakes. I had planned to change the rear pads for the first time, I read up on how to do it on LotusEspritWoorld forum and it sounded straight forward. I got the caliper off and removed the pads, but the piston doesn't have a slot in it , only two holes about 3/4 of inch apart. My Question is do I need a Special Lotus Tool to retract the piston?? and which direction do I turn the piston to retract it?? I have tried to turn it using a pair of needle nose pliers but it's very hard to move.:(
 

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No, no c-clamp!

The piston needs to be rotated to retract! The S4s has the Brembo rear caliper.

You should be able to do it with strong needle nose, but if that doesn't work, get a tool like this
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Disc-Brake-Piston/dp/B0002SQUFY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406668433&sr=1-1&keywords=disc+brake+piston+retractor[/ame]




The single piston on the rear caliper needs to be depressed into the caliper to allow room for the new, thicker rear pads. The piston needs to be rotated and depressed into the caliper, using a special tool, T000T1242. I used some old needle nose pliers, inserted into the two holes in the piston. Be careful not to nick or pinch the rubber grommet. You must apply pressure on the piston to push it into the caliper as you twist the piston clockwise. It took me about two and a half turns but it can take more depending on how hard you are pushing.
http://www.sandsmuseum.com/cars/elise/experience/maintenance/newpads/
 

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Travis is correct. Because the brake caliper also shares as the E-Brake the piston must be rotated back in the bore.

To be a 'Debbie Downer' the tool he pictured sucks. As you rotate the piston back into the bore much pressure is needed if you don't crack the bleeder which I would stay away from doing. Purchased this tool trying to save a few quid however I was wrenching 'in the business' and it was causing me time and effort so I purchased this set from 'MAC'

This is the tool to use made for the job... not cheap, a 'C' note or so but it does the job. It has a sprial screw with a 'brake pad puck' which catches the inner outerside of the caliper. This places the pressure on the disc to rotate it back into the bore.

I'm sure any autoparts store has these for rent if you should not want to spend the $$$ or take a chance on Harbor Freight.
 

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Travis is correct. Because the brake caliper also shares as the E-Brake the piston must be rotated back in the bore.

To be a 'Debbie Downer' the tool he pictured sucks. [snip]
[snip]
I'm sure any autoparts store has these for rent if you should not want to spend the $$$ or take a chance on Harbor Freight.
I agree on all points on this one - I have that cube that i tried to use on my 06 Mustang rear caliper - not enough leverage and totally sucks.

But OReilly's or Pep Boys will LOAN (not rent) the necessary kit that Type 82/Robert has in the picture - that's what I did and it worked out great.

Just note - if you don't return the loaner tools, they simply charge your credit charge (required for the loan).

Of course, I believe you have to buy the pads from them or some other item. They seemed to be pretty laid back when I went back separately to get the tools loaned (because it's also a 'loan with option to buy' program for them).
 

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My stuff is never rusty.... I used needle nose, haven't tried the cube, but then my parts always turn easy.

Now my pistons, all 16 of them, don't need to spin to retract, and my brake pad changes take a few seconds (once the wheel is off).
 

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No, no c-clamp!

Lol: i did my brake a month ago, after i unlocked the piston I can't push it back due to rust at the piston ridge. C-clamp and lots of mechanic used them through out the years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just want to thank everyone for the helpful information. My Cherry has now been popped on the rear pad replacement. I ended up making a tool to turn the piston back, I was only able to flush the left side because on the right side the DPO had broken off the nipple end of the bleeder screw. New parts ordered. Thanks again.
 
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