The Lotus Cars Community banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I am replacing the ignition switch on an esprit. I am trying to remove the back part of the switch (tumbler) and reinstall it in my new steering column switch.

There is a small set screw on the bottom of the housing that I removed but the part will not slide out. I do not want to force it as I have a small fortune wrapped up into the new ignition switch and do not want to damage anything.

I have attached a picture of the old ignition switch (still in the car) and the new one. I am wanting to remove the part connected to the wires and attach it into the new housing... Anyone have experience with this process.

Any help is appreciated,

Cheers
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Has anyone had any luck removing the "lock Barrel"? It seems once they are installed they can not be removed for theft purposes.
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,184 Posts
Has anyone had any luck removing the "lock Barrel"? It seems once they are installed they can not be removed for theft purposes.
I don't have first hand Esprit-specific information. But I'll bet that steering assembly is garden-variety and this info is likely applicable. Looks like you need a 'core' key:

-------------------
Step 6: Remove the Core

Insert the core key into the core of ignition switch, like any other key. Press down the retaining pin, using a small screwdriver. Turn the key about 10 degrees, to reach the off position. This will release the cylinder from the lock casing. When the key is free, it should be in the locked position.

Withdraw the key slowly from the lock. The cylinder will also pull out of the housing, as you withdraw the key. Please note that if you turn the key back before withdrawing, only the key will come out.

Read more: How to Remove an Ignition Lock Cylinder | DoItYourself.com
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,184 Posts
I didn't find any 'core key' but wondered if you try this:

On the Schlage locks on my house, you need to have the key IN the cylinder in order to remove it from the barrel. While that concept may not be the same here, you should try this:

1. remove the set screw (you'd done this already)
2. insert key into lock
3. slowly rotate and gently pull and see if the cylinder will release at a given position.

If the cylinder rotated in the barrel, you may have to realign the 'set screw hole' and try #2 and #3 again.

Note: do this over a large cloth or sheet of paper. If the cylinder tumblers somehow become exposed, they may go flying everywhere.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I didn't find any 'core key' but wondered if you try this:

On the Schlage locks on my house, you need to have the key IN the cylinder in order to remove it from the barrel. While that concept may not be the same here, you should try this:

1. remove the set screw (you'd done this already)
2. insert key into lock
3. slowly rotate and gently pull and see if the cylinder will release at a given position.

If the cylinder rotated in the barrel, you may have to realign the 'set screw hole' and try #2 and #3 again.

Note: do this over a large cloth or sheet of paper. If the cylinder tumblers somehow become exposed, they may go flying everywhere.

Thanks for your input but the reason I am changing the lock is I haven't the key :shrug:
 

·
Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
Joined
·
6,318 Posts
Thanks for providing the picture, BECAUSE:


Midway between the red and white wires, I can see a crimp (bend) in the pot-metal barrel. I bet, this is what is holding the switch in place.

You need to use a scribe or an awl to release that. Put it between the black part of the old switch and the barrel, and bend outward. Best to drive it in a little, and let the fatter part of the awl force it outwards. You don't want to crack the potmetal.


Be aware that there is probably another crimp, 180 degrees out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok I see, I thought the whole metal piece came out too, as its wiggles around. Your suggesting that only the black part comes out. I will give that a shot.

As far as removing the barrel my only concern is damaging the new ignition switch trying to remove it from the column.



Thanks for providing the picture, BECAUSE:


Midway between the red and white wires, I can see a crimp (bend) in the pot-metal barrel. I bet, this is what is holding the switch in place.

You need to use a scribe or an awl to release that. Put it between the black part of the old switch and the barrel, and bend outward. Best to drive it in a little, and let the fatter part of the awl force it outwards. You don't want to crack the potmetal.


Be aware that there is probably another crimp, 180 degrees out.
 

·
Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
Joined
·
6,318 Posts
Ok I see, I thought the whole metal piece came out too, as its wiggles around. Your suggesting that only the black part comes out. I will give that a shot.

As far as removing the barrel my only concern is damaging the new ignition switch trying to remove it from the column.
Jason,

If you have a complete replacement barrel assembly including the ignition switch, then you need to remove the shear bolts to install the new one. From picture #2 it seemed that there was no switch inside the barrel, though.

Yes, the shear bolts are a theft-preventative measure. When the bolts are tightened, the heads twist off. Then, they cannot be tighted further without heads... D'Oh! So, they must be drilled out if the assembly is loose.

After the old "bolt carcasses" are removed, regular bolts can be installed in their place. (I doubt if any concours judges will notice the bolt heads.) rotfl

Have fun.

:popcorn:

Edit: From your parts diagram it appears there is a woodruff key under the barrel. Don't lose it!

Edit #2: You DO realise that if you don't have the key, the switch assembly will not fix your problem? If you can drill out the shear bolts, do as Brian said and have a locksmith get you a new key.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jason,

If you have a complete replacement barrel assembly including the ignition switch, then you need to remove the shear bolts to install the new one. From picture #2 it seemed that there was no switch inside the barrel, though.

Yes, the shear bolts are a theft-preventative measure. When the bolts are tightened, the heads twist off. Then, they cannot be tighted further without heads... D'Oh! So, they must be drilled out if the assembly is loose.

After the old "bolt carcasses" are removed, regular bolts can be installed in their place. (I doubt if any concours judges will notice the bolt heads.) rotfl

Have fun.

:popcorn:

Edit: From your parts diagram it appears there is a woodruff key under the barrel. Don't lose it!

Edit #2: You DO realise that if you don't have the key, the switch assembly will not fix your problem? If you can drill out the shear bolts, do as Brian said and have a locksmith get you a new key.

Thanks,

I purchased a steering column with the ignition switch attached and a key but the back is open (see bottom picture)

The steering column in the car (theft recovery) had someone try to remove the barrel with hack saw and the car starts with a screw driver.:facepalm

They easiest solution (so I thought) was to remove the back part of the ignition (where the wires are), install the new steering column and ignition switch and re attach the part of the old switch with the wires.

But as usual things never go as planned and I cant seem to remove the back part of the ignition with the wires, its loose but wont come out and I didnt want to force anything until checking with you all...

Thanks for your input..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
Has anyone had any luck removing the "lock Barrel"? It seems once they are installed they can not be removed for theft purposes.
The drawing you posted appears to be from a car with an airbag steering wheel. What car are you working on?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The drawing you posted appears to be from a car with an airbag steering wheel. What car are you working on?
An 85 Esprit, I have the 85 Esprit manual, and it does have a graphic with both an airbag and without...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
310 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I am swapping the steering column tomorrow. I have a complete steering column with a key and all I have to do is remove the part mentioned in the original post and attach it to the new column. The column in the car is a theft recovery and the ignition was removed and it starts with a screw driver.

I am assuming there is a spring or something in there that causes the key to return back when starting the car.

I am really nervous removing the back part of the switch as I do not know how it attaches... if I break it, I am back to square one, but I cant put it off any longer so tomorrow it comes out. I will post pics for future reference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Jason,

If you are talking about the black plastic "ignition switch" as it is labeled in the drawing then once you release the "little screw" you are pointing to in your picture that piece will slide out. It just articulates with the half-shaft that you see protruding out the back of the lock mechanism. It is just a merely a multi-position switch,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
327 Posts
hmm... Looks like a bike ignition.

If I'm right, and, I've never removed the ignition from my Esprit, but it appears to be a generic key barrel from the manual page...

Number 1, drill out the anti-tamper screws. The whole ignition assembly will then drop free.

Item 3 is a spring detente retainer, you'll need to push it down with a small flat tip screwdriver.

Item 2 is about where the slot to push Item 3 will be. It'll be under the column inaccessible until you remove the complete assembly.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
:up:

Yup, that;s how the lock tumbler is retained in my BMW K75S. That seems like less labor than swapping out the whole column......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
That drawing is not the correct one for an '85, so may not be relevant to the poster's question.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top