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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Installed a Stebel nautalus horn the other weekend as a replacement of the stock horn. It is MUCH louder.

To get the driving power the horn, I used 14 g solid core wire and conected into the acess panel posts in the Exige on the front driver side. I tested it and everything works (i.e. the horn works just fine)

Unfrotunately when I go to honk the horn the engine cuts out!-eek-

HELP??
 

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Can't help you with the problem you've got, but I think I can help you with a problem that you don't yet have: the solid wire with eventually break. You should use stranded instead of solid in an environment with vibration like the Lotus.

Good luck!
 

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Can't help you with the problem you've got, but I think I can help you with a problem that you don't yet have: the solid wire with eventually break. You should use stranded instead of solid in an environment with vibration like the Lotus.

Good luck!
+1 Solid core is great for a house, but not for a car.
 

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I have the same horn and I used the factory wiring and upgraded to a 10amp fuse.

I did have the fuse blow one time when a dump truck decided it wanted my lane and I held the horn down for about 90 seconds.

No issues with the new 10amp fuse if I honk the horn in short pulses.
 

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I have the same horn and I used the factory wiring and upgraded to a 10amp fuse.
I did the exact same thing. Use the same mounts and wires and upgraded the fuse.;)
 

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I was going to post a thread about the horns, and found this thread. :)

I really don't like the stock horn -- it sounds like what I had on my bicycle when I was 10 -- and want to replace to something that sounds better and louder.

QUESTIONS
1. Where is the horn located?
2. How easy/difficult is it to replace the horn?
3. What are some good after-market horns?
4. Where do I get them?
5. Any pics of the mod?

Thanks in advance!!! :up::up:
 

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Hi all,

Installed a Stebel nautalus horn the other weekend as a replacement of the stock horn. It is MUCH louder.

To get the driving power the horn, I used 14 g solid core wire and conected into the acess panel posts in the Exige on the front driver side. I tested it and everything works (i.e. the horn works just fine)

Unfrotunately when I go to honk the horn the engine cuts out!-eek-

HELP??
Not exactly a safety device...

Easiest, cheapest approach: Remove what you wired, use factory wires to horn, see what happens. IMO, there is no need to run any extra wires.

I don't remember what the access panel posts look like. sorry.
 

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I was going to post a thread about the horns, and found this thread. :)

I really don't like the stock horn -- it sounds like what I had on my bicycle when I was 10 -- and want to replace to something that sounds better and louder.

QUESTIONS
1. Where is the horn located?
2. How easy/difficult is it to replace the horn?
3. What are some good after-market horns?
4. Where do I get them?
5. Any pics of the mod?

Thanks in advance!!! :up::up:
Search will tell all. IIRC, removal of frt underbody panel req'd. Some left orig horn in; it's hard to get to. I turned the horn, as it was easier than turning the nut.

But, this was a while ago and my memory is a bit vague. I can't remember which horn I bought, but think it was thru Griots...
 

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Horn issue.

:panic:
Hi all,

Installed a Stebel nautalus horn the other weekend as a replacement of the stock horn. It is MUCH louder.

To get the driving power the horn, I used 14 g solid core wire and conected into the acess panel posts in the Exige on the front driver side. I tested it and everything works (i.e. the horn works just fine)

Unfrotunately when I go to honk the horn the engine cuts out!-eek-

HELP??
Hello,
I believe you must have inadvertently wired the horn in parallel (across) an engine control component. When the horn is off, its electrical resistance is high, and when it is activated its resistance is low. This would explain why the engine cuts out when the horn is activated.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like I need to 're-do' this mod and simply go with the stock wiring and a 10 A fuse.

Thanks,
 

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I know what you mean, but more realistically, horns are often valuable in emergencies.

But, we could really do w/o cars that honk when their alarms are activated. People can't be bothered to look? turn their heads? what?:shrug::confused:
 

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Looks like I need to 're-do' this mod and simply go with the stock wiring and a 10 A fuse.

Thanks,
Just be aware that a good long blast on your horn will blow a 10A fuse, as Johnny B noted. Mine did not take anywhere near 90 seconds to blow. I suspect Johnny's didn't either...who blows their horn for 90 seconds? -eek-

I have a 15 A fuse in the horn circuit. Something Viper may rightly warn folks is not a good idea. However, it has worked this way for over three years with no issues (but then I've never tried holding the horn button down for 90 seconds :D).
 

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who blows their horn for 90 seconds? -eek-
1. NYC drivers, even tho it's illegal unless an emergency.

2. Probably the kind of old guy that would yell at me to keep off his lawn.

3. Wackos in traffic jams who must somehow think we don't all want to get where we are going.
 

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1. NYC drivers, even tho it's illegal unless an emergency.

2. Probably the kind of old guy that would yell at me to keep off his lawn.

3. Wackos in traffic jams who must somehow think we don't all want to get where we are going.

Oh, OK. In CA people are too impatient to do that...they just shoot you. :)
 

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Search will tell all. IIRC, removal of frt underbody panel req'd. Some left orig horn in; it's hard to get to. I turned the horn, as it was easier than turning the nut.

But, this was a while ago and my memory is a bit vague. I can't remember which horn I bought, but think it was thru Griots...
I did this as well. It's pretty much not an option for those who have two oil coolers. I got the Stebel Nautilus through twistedthrottle.com, IIRC.
 

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Oh, OK. In CA people are too impatient to do that...they just shoot you. :)
rotflrotfl I remember some comedian saying he saw a handgun vending machine in his LA hotel lobby.



I did this as well. It's pretty much not an option for those who have two oil coolers. I got the Stebel Nautilus through twistedthrottle.com, IIRC.
I did this w/2 oil coolers, but I may have misunderstood you.

BTW, I always try the ez method first, so would not have run an extra wire until the original proved inadequate.

Moreoever, a simple search would've helped the OP.

As Ray @ RD Enterprises once (or thrice) told me: We are often our own worst enemies.

Many of my screw-ups evoke memory of this line.
 

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rotflrotfl I remember some comedian saying he saw a handgun vending machine in his LA hotel lobby.





I did this w/2 oil coolers, but I may have misunderstood you.

BTW, I always try the ez method first, so would not have run an extra wire until the original proved inadequate.

Moreoever, a simple search would've helped the OP.

As Ray @ RD Enterprises once (or thrice) told me: We are often our own worst enemies.

Many of my screw-ups evoke memory of this line.
Kinda... In other words, those that don't have two oil coolers have it much easier; they can get to the mount for the horn from the other side since the oil cooler doesn't get in the way. BTW, I also soldered in a length of wire when I hooked up the Stebel.
 

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Looks like I need to 're-do' this mod and simply go with the stock wiring and a 10 A fuse.
You need to re-do it, but not necessarily use the stock wiring - at least all of it.

By using the post under the access panel, it sounds like you have an Exige - they have a battery connection under the access point to allow jumping the car (so you can open the doors with a dead battery, since you need to open the doors to pull the engine cover release).

A better setup to use would be to use a relay in the circuit. Use the stock horn wire to trigger the relay and connect the other trigger terminal to ground. Then run the heavy gauge stranded wire from the post to the switched terminal of the relay. Make sure you install an in-line fuse very close to the connection at the post. Run the other switched terminal to the horn. Run the other terminal from the horn to ground.

By using the power sourced from the post, and a relay, you can deliver full power to the horn, and not worry about over-heating the stock wiring.

If only it was as easy to source power in an Elise...
 
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