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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was all set to go to Thunderhill tomorrow but it looks like I won't be going.

I have ordered some brake discs from S111 and I'll replace mine as soon as I get the new ones.

Somehow, the countersink screw is hmmm... screwed :facepalm
Is there any way I can remove it without drilling it out?
 

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Sharks with "Lasers" will take it right out.
 

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The cap screw is corroded to the disc - drill the disc right next to the cap screw and it will come loose.

Wore out quite a few drill bits trying to drill a pilot hole for an easi-out when I replaced my discs.
 

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The cap screw is corroded to the disc - drill the disc right next to the cap screw and it will come loose.

Wore out quite a few drill bits trying to drill a pilot hole for an easi-out when I replaced my discs.

Really?
My EZ out came with a special bit that you use in the drill with a CCW rotation. That bit creates the cone for the EZ out bit. No problem. Hmmm...
Maybe I got lucky.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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+1 for EZ out. Worked fine for me.

Don't forget anti-seize on the new one, if you even use 'em at all.
 

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Really?
My EZ out came with a special bit that you use in the drill with a CCW rotation. That bit creates the cone for the EZ out bit. No problem. Hmmm...
Maybe I got lucky.
When I think back on it I was actually just drilling the heads off the cap screws to allow me to get the disc off... and mindful of the following tool description was probably not thinking to use an EZ out :)

TOOLS AND THEIR USES --

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock
out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer
across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you
had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them under the workbench with the
speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from
fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh sh--"

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old
age.

SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into
major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It
transforms human energy into a crooked, predictable motion, and the more you
attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing
else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to
the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense
welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop
on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of
which you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for
testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed
your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack
handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in
bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good
aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can
after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot
to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined
screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be
used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted
screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you
needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a
kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object
we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered
to your front door; works particularly well on contents such
as seats , vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund
checks, and rubber or plastic parts . Especially useful for slicing
work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling
"DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool
that you will need.
 

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Yes, drilled rotors are quite passe. Another term might be "pre-cracked"
 

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....
TOOLS AND THEIR USES --

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock
out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer
across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you
had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.......
rotfl :up: :clap:
 

Premium Member
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5,195 Posts
There are many tools available these days that do not require drilling. Take a pinpoint punch and insert into the stripped screw. Be careful not to touch the sides. Give it a hard smack with a hammer. Realign the punch and give it another smack to the punch. What this does is help to break the screw free. Either buy a square head extractor tool or try inserting a metric allen key. Tap the tool in with a hammer so it fits tight. Be sure to hold the tool square and tap it in straight. Try to get the tool in as far as you can. Use a small hammer and tap the tool lightly while turning the retractor to loosen. 19 times out of 20 times tapping with a punch will have helped break the screw free to be able to extract the screw. I like to use square tip easy outs rather than the spiral tips. I have been in industrial maintenance for 30 years and find it easier to extract this way instead of drilling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ended up using a dremel to grind out the screw head. Drilled a bunch of holes where the head was until I could pull the discs out leaving the screw in place and all I had to do then was to unscrew it as it came out quite easily. The head was the part that got corroded and stuck in place. I have put the new discs in and I also put a lot of anti-seize on the threads and also between the head and the disk, just in case.
 
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