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2006 Lotus Elise
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Discussion Starter #1
I'd like to upgrade to a baffled oil pan. Is this something I could easily do myself? I have ramps and basic tools. I'm just curious how complex of a job this is. Also wondering where would I get the new seal or gasket, does it come with the Gpan? And will the Fumoto valve I have on the OEM oil pan fit the Gpan. Shop quoted me $500 to install the gpan, but I think I could do it myself and save the money.

Thanks!
 

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I have no idea about the valve. But the pan itself isn't tough . Make sure you have the bolts or studs for it. As far as the gasket , check out boe the have one that is super simple and $25 . After you get the under tray and all that down it's not that tough just take time and patience . Make sure you have a tool to remove the current gasket, but after doing it myself ( granted not that pan , but a moroso ) I wouldn't pay to have it done . YMMV

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Discussion Starter #3
Make sure you have the bolts or studs for it. Make sure you have a tool to remove the current gasket
Is this a matter of using the bolts or studs from the OEM pan or are there additional parts I would need?

And what type of tool would be used to remove the current gasket?
 

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I would call inokinetic and ask if theirs will work with stock bolts , chances are it won't and they will probably sell it to you , it won't be expensive. Probably $20-35 ( don't hold me to that lol).

And any automotive shop should have it or you can pick one up from Amazon also there's a spray to help with it as well. Just make sure you wear proper protective gear . It will take a bit more force than probably expected to remove the gasket , it did for me at least. And make sure the surface is perfectly clean before installing the new one .

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I have no idea about the valve. But the pan itself isn't tough . Make sure you have the bolts or studs for it. As far as the gasket , check out boe the have one that is super simple and $25 . After you get the under tray and all that down it's not that tough just take time and patience . Make sure you have a tool to remove the current gasket, but after doing it myself ( granted not that pan , but a moroso ) I wouldn't pay to have it done . YMMV
Good call on upgrading the pan, lots of people forget that when you pull one G in a corner, the surface of the oil in the pan is pulled to a 45-degree angle since many Lotus cars can pull more than one G...you get the picture.
@dan2468 is right, doing the pan, even for a novice, is a pretty easy upgrade, just take your time and follow the directions, if you have everything lined up ahead of time it's an easy one-day mod (maybe two days if you take your time).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if you have everything lined up ahead of time it's an easy one-day mod (maybe two days if you take your time).
Okay, cool, this is sort of what I was curious about. I knew it wouldn't be as simple as removing the old one and slapping the new one in its place...the gasket, obviously, but is there also sensors and other pieces that have to be swapped over to the new pan?
 

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Not unless you already have an oil pressure sensor installed. It's pretty straight forward.

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There really aren't any other systems or sensors that will be affected while you're doing the pan. The design of the Elise allows great access once you remove the lower engine access panel. Once you have the engine bay opened up, take a good look around for any issues, pay particular attention to the metal cooling U-tube ( https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f311/cooling-ticking-timebomb-how-your-cooling-u-tube-47232/ ) if you haven't already checked yours. Good luck!
 

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Anyone with average mechanical skills can do it. The pan comes with detailed instructions but don't hesitate to call us with any questions you may have.
 

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Plural of Lotus is Lotus
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The hardest part of the job is removing the existing pan. Doesn't really want to come off. I used one of these [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NXVDP9X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Once the stock pan is off, make sure to use a razor blade to remove ALL the original sealant. If not, it will leak.

BOE gasket make the install of new pan a breeze.
 

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its not a difficult or complicated job. It does take time.

You do not want to scratch the surface the existing pan mates to. It can be a little cumbersome to get the existing pan starting to pry off. Cumbersome again when removing the old gasket - take your time to remove all the old material.

I definitely recommend the BOE gasket although I haven't had a chance to use it. Likely much more foolproof assuming a clean mating surface.

As for the bolts, I don't think any pan has you drill out the old fasteners so the only risk you have is ruining one while removing the old pan... so plan on reusing the fasteners you have. Edit - JFH is right, mine must have come with longer bolts as I dont remember having to purchase anything.

Also, your existing fumoto will not transfer over to the new pan.
 

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Existing bolts won't be long enough. The new pans have a thicker rim. Existing studs come out easy enough with pliers. New pan should come with new studs (mine from BOE did)
 

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Look here, All the info you need is here. This is for a Moroso, but it all applies. Inokinetic is the best in my book. Shinoo thinks everything through.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP89Nz7guSM

Look here, All the info you need is here.
Very helpful, thank you. When folks talk about removing any residue, they're referring to the surface on the under side of the block, correct? Is using a razor blade to remove the residue all that is needed? Does it need to be 100% totally clean before installing the gasket?

I guess I'll be learning as I go on this one...
 

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Very helpful, thank you. When folks talk about removing any residue, they're referring to the surface on the under side of the block, correct? Is using a razor blade to remove the residue all that is needed? Does it need to be 100% totally clean before installing the gasket?

I guess I'll be learning as I go on this one...
Yes, the cleanup people are talking about is on the underside where the pan mates to the block. Yes, the surface needs to be 100% clean to get a good seal. A razor blade works but be careful not to scratch the sealing surface too much with the razor since it's harder than the aluminum block is. Plastic scrappers would be the ideal choice since they won't scratch but they will require a little more elbow grease since they will remove the material a little slower.
 
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