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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all
I have been working on adding my sensor pack to the MX2E on my 2007 lotus exige s.
the ambient temp on my drive was 52 F

I am getting a new oil pressure sensor if you are wondering. There is no way the pressure can be that high. What can make a sensor read a value like this. For the record, the max pressure this AiM sensor reads is 150 psi.

What do you guys make of the boost pressure. isn't it supposed to be 7 PSI, not -10? Values never became positive during drive in all gears and engine speed. Pressure sensor is right hose coupling attaching the cool side pipe to the intake manifold on the passenger side. what gives?

No matter how I configure it, Oil Pressure reads Oi pressure.

Is temperature differential between ambient (52) and intake temp (66) reasonable?

MX2E makes my low beams on all the time. Anyone else experience this?

Thanks everyone
1279033
 

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Are you sure the pressure sensors are calibrated correctly?
 

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At idle you'll have a vacuum reading. Maybe it's interpreting that as negative boost.

For the temp differential, are you na or sc? If the latter, what's your setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
At idle you'll have a vacuum reading. Maybe it's interpreting that as negative boost.

For the temp differential, are you na or sc? If the latter, what's your setup.
I have a factory setup 2ZZ-GE supercharged with intercooler. No mods.
 

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I can’t help you with your questions, but I have one for you. 😁
How did you get the IAT to display on the dash ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can’t help you with your questions, but I have one for you. 😁
How did you get the IAT to display on the dash ?
you set it up using Race Studio 3.
In the Display tab you can set everything up by sensor selection via drop down menus.
You also have to pair the channel expansion and select the correct sensors there as well. there are only so many approved models of pressure sensor to choose from.
As for physically you need to drill and tap a location in the intake system you think is suitable for boost pressure. I did the cool side aluminum pipe right before it goes into the engine. 1/8 NPT with an "R" bit for me.
this is for a 2007 and earlier car, hence all the burning hoops to jump through.
2008 has more ECU parameters you can select and 2009+ cars pretty much can select anything you want natively.
hope this helps
Louis
 

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you set it up using Race Studio 3.
In the Display tab you can set everything up by sensor selection via drop down menus.
You also have to pair the channel expansion and select the correct sensors there as well. there are only so many approved models of pressure sensor to choose from.
As for physically you need to drill and tap a location in the intake system you think is suitable for boost pressure. I did the cool side aluminum pipe right before it goes into the engine. 1/8 NPT with an "R" bit for me.
this is for a 2007 and earlier car, hence all the burning hoops to jump through.
2008 has more ECU parameters you can select and 2009+ cars pretty much can select anything you want natively.
hope this helps
Louis
Hi Louis, thanks for getting back to me.
I am interested in the IAT, the boost I can connect easily. My car is a 2006 with a Boe SC, and I have a IAT sensor connected to the ECU already, but it is my understanding that 2006/07 can not send IAT signal to the AIM dash via can bus, 2008 and up has that ability. Did you install IAT sensor and then wired that to the expansion box. ?
 

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Is that something I can do myself?
I just took the sensors out of the AiM bags and screwed them in.
You should be able to. Pressure sensors come in a variety of calibrations - not a universal thing. The simplest answer to why both you pressure readings are off is that the dash expects different sensors than what you have. Fixing this within the dash software is free, so I'd exhaust that option before spending money throwing sensors at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Louis, thanks for getting back to me.
I am interested in the IAT, the boost I can connect easily. My car is a 2006 with a Boe SC, and I have a IAT sensor connected to the ECU already, but it is my understanding that 2006/07 can not send IAT signal to the AIM dash via can bus, 2008 and up has that ability. Did you install IAT sensor and then wired that to the expansion box. ?
Yes if you look at the technical docs cars of our vintage can only do the basics that show up on the MX2E like fuel level, parking brake on, rpm, speed, turn signals. 2008 cars have a few more items that can be selected and 2009-2011 is like the buffet at medieval times.

I plugged in an AiM pressure sensor into the AiM channel expansion and then the channel expansion into the "exp" port below the "right buttons" port. I could not get the data hub or GPS working but I don't care about racing. The ladies can't see me when I zoom past at 150 mph. ;)

do your low beams stay on all the time because of the MX2E?
 

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Yes if you look at the technical docs cars of our vintage can only do the basics that show up on the MX2E like fuel level, parking brake on, rpm, speed, turn signals. 2008 cars have a few more items that can be selected and 2009-2011 is like the buffet at medieval times.

I plugged in an AiM pressure sensor into the AiM channel expansion and then the channel expansion into the "exp" port below the "right buttons" port. I could not get the data hub or GPS working but I don't care about racing. The ladies can't see me when I zoom past at 150 mph. ;)

do your low beams stay on all the time because of the MX2E?
I don't know what all you've tried, but I'll tell you how I setup my system, and it's working fine. I plugged the 4 port data hub into the EXP port on the MX2E, and plugged the SmartyCam, GPS, and Channel Expansion units into the data hub. I have an oil temp sensor and oil pressure sensor plugged into the CE. For oil temp I used the AiM PT100 oil/coolant thermoresistor with the 1/8" NPT thread, for oil pressure I used an AiM 0-150 psi pressure sensor with 1/8" NPT thread (AiM part number X05PSA00150P18K). Is this how you had the data hub and GPS plugged in when they weren't working?
Regarding your sensor readings, my guess is that you have a mismatch between the physical sensor and the sensor type setting in Race Studio 3, such as having an "absolute pressure" type pressure sensor but using a setting in RS3 for a "gauge pressure" type of sensor. There are RS3 configuration instructions for each of the sensors, listed by sensor product code, on the AiM website. 0-150 psi gauge pressure is a good choice for oil pressure, but intake air pressure is more of personal preference (bar or psi, gauge or absolute).
I found the same oddity regarding "Oil" (missing "l" in the display), I worked around that by using all caps "OIL", it seems to be a minor bug in their text display algorithm (bit mapping of character strings).
No, the dash doesn't keep my low beams on all the time. Perhaps it's relevant that I did "the green wire mod" to disable the DRL's on my '08 soon after I bought it new.

HTH, -Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't know what all you've tried, but I'll tell you how I setup my system, and it's working fine. I plugged the 4 port data hub into the EXP port on the MX2E, and plugged the SmartyCam, GPS, and Channel Expansion units into the data hub. I have an oil temp sensor and oil pressure sensor plugged into the CE. For oil temp I used the AiM PT100 oil/coolant thermoresistor with the 1/8" NPT thread, for oil pressure I used an AiM 0-150 psi pressure sensor with 1/8" NPT thread (AiM part number X05PSA00150P18K). Is this how you had the data hub and GPS plugged in when they weren't working?
Regarding your sensor readings, my guess is that you have a mismatch between the physical sensor and the sensor type setting in Race Studio 3, such as having an "absolute pressure" type pressure sensor but using a setting in RS3 for a "gauge pressure" type of sensor. There are RS3 configuration instructions for each of the sensors, listed by sensor product code, on the AiM website. 0-150 psi gauge pressure is a good choice for oil pressure, but intake air pressure is more of personal preference (bar or psi, gauge or absolute).
I found the same oddity regarding "Oil" (missing "l" in the display), I worked around that by using all caps "OIL", it seems to be a minor bug in their text display algorithm (bit mapping of character strings).
No, the dash doesn't keep my low beams on all the time. Perhaps it's relevant that I did "the green wire mod" to disable the DRL's on my '08 soon after I bought it new.

HTH, -Ed
Thanks for the tips.
I hate that my oil pressure says 130-155 psi
right now i am trying to figure out why every time i connect to wifi i cannot connect to the MX2E.
I use the same oil pressure sensor as you.
Will keep working at it. Just annoying stuff, not anything that affects drive ability.
L
 

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Yes if you look at the technical docs cars of our vintage can only do the basics that show up on the MX2E like fuel level, parking brake on, rpm, speed, turn signals. 2008 cars have a few more items that can be selected and 2009-2011 is like the buffet at medieval times.

I plugged in an AiM pressure sensor into the AiM channel expansion and then the channel expansion into the "exp" port below the "right buttons" port. I could not get the data hub or GPS working but I don't care about racing. The ladies can't see me when I zoom past at 150 mph. ;)

do your low beams stay on all the time because of the MX2E?
I think we are talking about two different sensors. You mentioned a PRESSURE sensor, I am interested in the TEMPERATURE sensor you used to display IAT on your dash.

I do not have the dash yet, but I am trying to get all the information for what I need to do, before I buy one.
 

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Thanks for the tips.
I hate that my oil pressure says 130-155 psi
right now i am trying to figure out why every time i connect to wifi i cannot connect to the MX2E.
I use the same oil pressure sensor as you.
Will keep working at it. Just annoying stuff, not anything that affects drive ability.
L
You can't connect to the MX2E WiFi (key on, engine off)? Or does your laptop connect to the MX2E WiFi, but RS3 can't find the dash? You must have been able to connect before (to configure the gauge displays), what's changed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think we are talking about two different sensors. You mentioned a PRESSURE sensor, I am interested in the TEMPERATURE sensor you used to display IAT on your dash.

I do not have the dash yet, but I am trying to get all the information for what I need to do, before I buy one.
I am using the PT100. the techs at AiM said that the PT100 is more for fluids. It has a closed end and may not be as accurate. AiM does not sell an air temperature sensor. There are other non-AiM temperature sensors that may be compatible but you have to check on RS3 to see if they can be found on the pull down menu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You can't connect to the MX2E WiFi (key on, engine off)? Or does your laptop connect to the MX2E WiFi, but RS3 can't find the dash? You must have been able to connect before (to configure the gauge displays), what's changed?
I am not sure what happened. I am going to park next to the public library and try again with their wifi. it was really frustrating like pull one's hair out. But yes it worked fine before. i got upgraded to fiber in the 'hood but everyone probably uses even more bandwidth now working from home so its probably actually slower now.
 

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I am not sure what happened. I am going to park next to the public library and try again with their wifi. it was really frustrating like pull one's hair out. But yes it worked fine before. i got upgraded to fiber in the 'hood but everyone probably uses even more bandwidth now working from home so its probably actually slower now.
For those that haven't worked with an AiM dash, all communication with the dash (for firmware updates, configuration with Race Studio 3, or for downloading data recordings) is by WiFi, the dash doesn't have bluetooth or a USB or serial port. There are 2 ways to configure the WiFi, one is as an access point (to directly connect a laptop to the dash WiFi signal, creating a "network" that consists of just 2 devices, your laptop and the dash), the other is for the dash to connect to a nearby WiFi signal (like your home WiFi), and connect your laptop to the same WiFi network. This latter method requires the car to be located near the WiFi signal that it's configured to use (SSID and password), otherwise it will need to be reconfigured. The "access point" method is much simpler if you only have one dash, and if you mostly use the same computer to communicate with that dash. This is all well explained in the AiM "WiFi configuration" tech support doc on the AiM website (link).

To the OP, since you are trying to use an existing WiFi network, I assume that's how you've communicated with the dash in the past. Unless you have a good reason to use this method (multiple AiM dashes, or you want to use multiple computers to communicate with the dash), I suggest you use the "dash as access point" method instead. To do this, you'll need to either get the dash connected to the same WiFi network that you used in the past, and then change the "WiFi mode" using Race Studio 3, or else reset the WiFi configuration in the "WiFi Settings" screen on the AiM dash then follow the instructions on page 5 of the "WiFi Configuration" document. The only downside to this method (which is minor) is that you can't retrieve software or firmware updates from AiM while connected to the dash, you need to first get the updates while the laptop is connected to the internet (such as your home, or library, WiFi).

HTH, -Ed
 

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I think we are talking about two different sensors. You mentioned a PRESSURE sensor, I am interested in the TEMPERATURE sensor you used to display IAT on your dash.
You can use any air temp sensor and wire it in. In Race Studio, you just set up the channel as necessary to read that sensor, then export it out.
 

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You can use any air temp sensor and wire it in. In Race Studio, you just set up the channel as necessary to read that sensor, then export it out.
Just be aware that a "Channel Expansion" unit only supports thermo-resistor type temperature sensors, you need a "TC Hub" for thermocouples (the TC Hub only supports thermocouples).
 
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