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Mine sucks, added in 1 can of freon, and the vent temp went from 85 to 68. cabin temp still in the 80's WTH?? what kind of temps are you guys getting??


Eric
 

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My A/C does a decent job down here in S. Texas. The secret is to keep the fan at the second click. Dont run the fan at full speed since the air is going faster than the compressor can cool. Jasper taught me this on my first test drive in that KG car. You can feel the compressor cycle on the highway, blows cool for awhile then not so cool. Crack a window and it gets warm quickly.
 

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I think the little AC they put in this was sort of a perfunctory nod to the American driver. It doesn't do much, wasn't really intended to. They just didn't want us to say "I'm not buying a car with no air." Be grateful it has one at all. Does the British version even have one?

Thanks for the tip about fan level 2 though - I'll try that.
 

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One aspect of the problem it that the heater core is flowing water from the radiator all of the time. There is a thread on how to bypass the heater core.

Of course hot water from the engine goes thru the passenger sill, to the radiator/core, then is sent back along the drivers side. The aluminum sills will warm up and retain/radiate some heat.

Another aspect is that the temp probe on the evaporator may not properly report when it has frozen. Much has been written on this as well along with alignment suggestions.
 

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Mine cools ok, I just need to get the fan speed dial re-wired. Mine works backwards. Position off is full speed, Full speed is off. I tried to re-wire it comparing it to a friends Elise, but those damn Brits made all the wires Green. I can't tell how mine is wired wrong. I hear that there are faint colored lines on the wires to differenciate them but:crazyeyes they still look the same to me.
 

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Being in Florida and experiencing somewhat similar, disappointing and uncomfortable A/C performance as you, I made some changes recently that indeed seem to be working very well. I decided to insulate the cockpit of the car from two heat sources, the sun and the cars own hot fluid pipes. Firstly, I tinted every window, including the windshield, with 3M Crystalline, which is the latest in technology, expensive, but very effective. Secondly, I insulated the side sills and front firewall on the inside of the car from the heat of the coolant, heater and oil cooler pipes. I am now seeing vent temperatures in the 40's and the car is far more comfortable. The A/C is undersized for climate conditions where the temperatures are in the 90's and coupled with high humidity, therefore giving the system less to overcome certainly seems to help. Even when the vent temperature goes up in traffic, as soon as I start moving again the system recovers much quicker than before.
 

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When you run your AC, do you use the outside air or do you use the cabin air by pressing the other button to the right of the AC button? I was thinking that by recycling the air (having the button on) would be cooler than using the air outside. Am I missing something with this logic?
 

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The A/C in my Elise never worked.. at any setting - it was more of a heater than anything. The A/C in the Exige works like an A/C should.
 

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Details?

Being in Florida and experiencing somewhat similar, disappointing and uncomfortable A/C performance as you, I made some changes recently that indeed seem to be working very well. I decided to insulate the cockpit of the car from two heat sources, the sun and the cars own hot fluid pipes. Firstly, I tinted every window, including the windshield, with 3M Crystalline, which is the latest in technology, expensive, but very effective. Secondly, I insulated the side sills and front firewall on the inside of the car from the heat of the coolant, heater and oil cooler pipes. I am now seeing vent temperatures in the 40's and the car is far more comfortable. The A/C is undersized for climate conditions where the temperatures are in the 90's and coupled with high humidity, therefore giving the system less to overcome certainly seems to help. Even when the vent temperature goes up in traffic, as soon as I start moving again the system recovers much quicker than before.
Do you have any details on how you did the insulation as well as what you used to insulate?
 

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expansion valve?

In my 05 the expansion valve was bad. I think this was the case in many units. My A/C would blow cool for a few minutes then no more. It was a warranty item I got repaired, all works well now.
 

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This is the insulation, self adhesive, available from The Home Depot or Lowes, about $15.
Foam and Foil Duct Insulation
Fabric I used is a suede micro fibre from local fabric store
Removed existing carpet and pop riveted aluminum edge trim and plastic sill cover.
Made a patten for sill.
Sills measure 20' cooler.
3M Crystalline is very effective.
Do you have any details on how you did the insulation as well as what you used to insulate?
 

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I've given my A/C a full test here in Southern AZ, probably the hottest place in the US and I have no complaints. Even going down the freeway on a 100F+ day it seems to work just fine. I did however take the advice of not turning the knob all the way to the left. My elise is pretty low mileage and I'm sure it wont be perfect forever in this horribly hot weather, but so far so good. On the other hand I dont really mind the heat and usually put the top down no matter what the temperature.
 

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My '05 has its good and bad days. There are some days I have to turn it down b/c I am getting too cold and other days it seems like it isn't even working. The dealership checked it out and they adjusted something (can't remember what) which helped a bit, but it still seems to have a tough time esp. in stop-and-go traffic.
 

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my heater/a.c. is always letting air in from the front intakes. (behind the grill)
i covered them with tape and the heater heats and the a.c. cools.
i always use the recirculating button and it works well.
maybe the next time i must remove the front clam, i'll look at the ventilation assembly, but for now, it works well.
sam
 

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I live in Houston where all auto manufacturers should test their A/C systems in the dead of Summer in stop-n-go traffic. So far, the A/C in my 2007 Elise works okay. In hot/humid climates, make sure you keep it on recirculating (pressing the other button to the right of the AC button). This way your A/C is not working extra hard to cool and de-humidify hot humid air drawn from the outside, but recycling the cooled (or semi-cooled) air from inside the cabin.
 

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Another Houstonian here seeing issues, now that we're into the 90°F+ days with high humidity. I keep it on #2, and get about 15-20 minutes of cold blowing, then cold "breathing".

I'll try the re-circ button on the way home today, but I'm also going to be printing out the Heater Core Bypass Mod instructions today.

This is undoubtedly the most useful forum I've ever seen!
 

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In my 05 the expansion valve was bad. I think this was the case in many units. My A/C would blow cool for a few minutes then no more. It was a warranty item I got repaired, all works well now.
That sounds exactly like how my a/c works. It blows cold for about 10 mins when you first start the car then goes warm and sometimes comes back to cold for a minute or two before crapping out again.

I often find myself driving my Miata more since the a/c actually works.
 

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I took mine to Scottsdale Lotus because the AC seemed to be functioning sub-par.. Turns out it had a leak. So they ordered a part under warranty, and I'm just waiting on that. Hopefully it gets here soon as temps will begin reaching the triple digits this weekend...
 
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