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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the lighting harness for the trunk, which, logically, needs to be disconnected to replace the rear glass.

I see a tab that need to be pushed or pulled or somethinged, and I've had zero luck so far. Before I stab my hand with a flat blade screwdriver, can somebody give me a definitive method of undoing this bit¢h?
 

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That's it, push it together first to relive the pressure on the little nub. Pry the tab up then pull apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ummmmm, so far nothing. Anybody have experience with this particular connector and have the stitches to prove it? :crazyeyes

Should be straightforward, but it ain't. The fact that it's covered in tape shmutz ain't helping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Maybe I should donate my own blood first.
 

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Sawzall!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Harix! Now I know EXACTLY how I'm going to bleed (or that the blood won't be spilled in vain)!
 

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Don't pull the connector straight out. Wiggle it while pulling it out. I tried to pull straight out. Didn't work out so well but wiggle wiggle rock rock wiggle wiggle worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm using a flat blade screwdriver pushed into the slot and levering down on the tab. Am I defeating something?
 

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Yourself! Walk away from it for a bit. Then try again

I don't think that small tab on back has diddly to do with it.
Use a small flathead, slide it under the big tab over the locking nub and pry aft. If you break the tab off it will still work later.
 

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Ill look at mine when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Lots of side-to-side wiggling as per RoadDad. Lots of pulled tendons in right hand. Seriously considering cutting harness and replacing connector. In the morning after qualifying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Morning now. Soaked the connector in penetrating oil overnight. Still won't budge.

Tried disconnecting individual lights and shoving large connector through clam hole. Of course, there's about a 1mm clearance issue and I really don't want to ream out the hole to clear it (I hate bodge work).

Off to auto parts stores to find generic 6 or 8 pin connector and if there is such a thing, I'll cut and re-terminate. Bodge work, but will look and function as good as factory work.

Any better ideas??
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks again Harix. I've tried and tried and that sucker wouldn't budge! Very weird. I've purchased a Molex connector to replace it with and hope there isn't a resistance issue and subsequent fiery death.
 

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Ok then your connector could be melted because of heat due to loose connection(s) from one or more pins.

Anyway, to replace the rear glass, I think the clam doesn't need to be removed completely. So try get a couple of box about 20 inch high, remove all screw hardware, with two people, you can lift and back up the clam a few inches until the wires held it and your clam going to sit into that box. I never try, but a few inches opening on to enough to install the glass.

Are you going with OE glass or Plexi?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Already pretty deep into the project.
Pics here: https://www.facebook.com/EricScottW...0202041362015042.1073741830.1216231277&type=1

:panic:

There was some signs of battery-type corrosion on a couple of the pins, so I'm sure that played into it. I'm debating whether to go with the Molex connector (MolexKits.com | 76650-0055) or butt splice (permanent).

The Molex is rated at 5 amp (each circuit), I haven't checked the fuse rating on the brake light circuits, I doubt they are more than that.

If I can acquire the OEM part, I'll install that as soon as I get it.
 
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