Posts by Vantage
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5,249 Posts
No wax, sealant, or other product intended for paint protection/beautification is going to protect your paint from stone chips and the like. The best bet for protection is some sort of clearbra like Xpel or Stoneguard. They seem to work pretty well but I have never purchased one myself.
Crystal Guard gave me a free do-it-yourself sample, but I never really prepared the surface on my test vehicle fully, so I didn't get the best results. I ought to try it again before making my final opinion on it. However, I can tell you that they seem to throw around the marketing fluff quite a bit.
With any product, they key is surface preparation and not necessarily the product used. New cars don't require that much prep and so they tend to get good results without any real work.
Crystal Guard gave me a free do-it-yourself sample, but I never really prepared the surface on my test vehicle fully, so I didn't get the best results. I ought to try it again before making my final opinion on it. However, I can tell you that they seem to throw around the marketing fluff quite a bit.
With any product, they key is surface preparation and not necessarily the product used. New cars don't require that much prep and so they tend to get good results without any real work.
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5,249 Posts
I would like to note that autopia.org is simply a wonderful resource for learning to detail in depth. Once you join, expect to start spending hundreds of dollars! 
If you have the time, hand washing is still the way to go IMO. The Elise is such a small car, I can't imagine it taking a long time.
I'm old fashioned, and so I still prefer natural sheepskin mitts (2) replaced every year and your favorite car wash solution with the two bucket method. Microfiber waffle weave towels to blot dry, and microfiber cloths for the final quick detail touchup.
If you have the time, hand washing is still the way to go IMO. The Elise is such a small car, I can't imagine it taking a long time.
I'm old fashioned, and so I still prefer natural sheepskin mitts (2) replaced every year and your favorite car wash solution with the two bucket method. Microfiber waffle weave towels to blot dry, and microfiber cloths for the final quick detail touchup.
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5,249 Posts
Arno,
I hope you are right!
Cerven,
Try this link: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html and this one: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/tps-accgtd-cd.html
Stonechips take a long time to properly repair. I'll find you a good article, or write my own for you...
I hope you are right!
Cerven,
Try this link: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html and this one: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/tps-accgtd-cd.html
Stonechips take a long time to properly repair. I'll find you a good article, or write my own for you...
Joined
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5,249 Posts
Typically I don't prefer to use a orbital to remove a product, as hand removal is more effective in the smaller spots and is generally more safe. Griots also sells an attachment for your buffer to clay with. That sounds terrible to me! If you like machine removal though, then do what you like.
The key to getting any wax to remove quickly and with little effort is to apply it as thin as possible. For Zaino I put it on so thin that I can barely see it head one and have to shift around a bit to see the application. Effort increases quite a bit with thickness. P21S is a wipe on, wipe off product which aids removal. Still, it can be fussy if you really slop it on, but you don't have to be that carefull with it. In any case, go thin! It will at the very least save product.
The key to getting any wax to remove quickly and with little effort is to apply it as thin as possible. For Zaino I put it on so thin that I can barely see it head one and have to shift around a bit to see the application. Effort increases quite a bit with thickness. P21S is a wipe on, wipe off product which aids removal. Still, it can be fussy if you really slop it on, but you don't have to be that carefull with it. In any case, go thin! It will at the very least save product.
Joined
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5,249 Posts
BTW, in an upcoming issue of the Club111 newsletter, JamesA is working on an exterior and interior detailing overview to get people started when they first take delivery.
What other articles are of interest?
- chip repair
- swirl removal, using a Porter Cable
- synthetic and carnauba combos?
- using detailing clay
- tools for detailing, how to look for proper microfiber, wash mitts
- name your own...
- J
What other articles are of interest?
- chip repair
- swirl removal, using a Porter Cable
- synthetic and carnauba combos?
- using detailing clay
- tools for detailing, how to look for proper microfiber, wash mitts
- name your own...
- J
Joined
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5,249 Posts
I received this PM from a user and wanted to reply to all those who were wondering:
You may find many of these extra steps time consuming, and I might even agree with you there. It can be! However, for my personal needs, the cost of time and effort is worth it when it comes to the final results. To some extent detailing becomes a hobby for some, and for others it's just a chore. Let's find out more about your needs...
Durability: There are other products that can outperform Rejex. [email protected] was able to get 6 weeks out of the product. Can't confirm them myself, but even if it lasts 12 weeks, there are sealants on the market that outperform it. Six months out of Klasse Sealant Glaze is not uncommon. How often are you willing to rewax?
Maintenance: This category can tie into durability to some extent. Keeping your car garaged and clean can increase the durability of your wax. This is basically a zero effort item. Wiping your car down with a quick detailer after each wash also helps improve the durability and surface quality. Using a California Car Duster keeps the dust off and helps with aesthetics. Mr. Clean Auto Dry's may indeed save you drying time, but it may fall short in other areas. For example, Einszett Perls solution smells great, provides more lubrication, and some gloss enhancement. Zaino car wash also improves longevity for Zaino'd vehicles specifically. Perls also does this for regular waxes by keeping the surface clean, but Zaino has some kind of replenishing effect. The tradeoff is that I must dry my car, but it only takes me 20 minutes or so to do this.
It has been said that Rejex doesn't let things stick to it. It's made by a lubrication company BTW. Dirt washes off a waxed surface more easily than an unwaxed surface, in so far as our paint discussion goes. Is Rejex so superior in this regard that you are willing to discontinue use of any other product? That's for you to judge.
Aesthetics: I will preface this by saying the new cars looking pretty darn good when you take delivery! Simply topping a new car with your favorite wax will be good enough for most people by far. There isn't much to touch or do to it as far as prep.
How good your paint looks after it's all said and done is really a product of the surface preparation, not just the wax you used. If you only do the minimum of applying a wax layer like Rejex, it's not going to look as good as what [email protected]'s Paradise can do with polishes, and two different kinds of wax layered. In terms of pure looks with the wax, a lot of people find other products superior to Rejex, but at the cost of something else like effort or durability or cost to buy the product. Rejex will benefit from surface prep like polishing and swirl removal, just like any other product. It's also attention to "detail" that makes a car look good. Not only what is done to the paint, but protecting the rubber trim, keeping the tires dressed, the wheels clean, exhaust tip polished, diffuser free of soot, the leather in good conditon, the interior clean, etc. All this takes time.
Monetary cost: It's possible to spend hundreds of dollars on orbital buffers, microfiber towels, cotton towels, applicators, different kinds of polishes, chemical cleaners, degreasers, vacuums, brushes, waxes, and things of this nature. It's really a hobby. How far to you want to go with it?
So basically you have to weigh all of these considerations when choosing. Rejex is pretty straightforward, provides pretty good shine and is comparable to a product like Liquid Glass. Coupled with Mr. Clean Autodry you can keep your car fairly clean.
Personally, I'm not into the concours thing, as the effort really isn't worth it. But what I do like is an outstanding looking car to drive around with relatively low maintenance (to me), that may require substantial initial effort when applying the products. This means not merely using Rejex and something a little more robust. If you just want a product to apply every couple months and forget about it, then you might not care about what else there is out there.
If you made it this far, I'm very very sorry for writing this much.
- J
PS: And while I preach on, I have a very dirty black car sitting at home that needs some serious work.
There is really no problem using this solution. In fact, it may cater exactly to your detailing needs. These may be ease of use, minimal maintenance, minimal cost, and improved aesthetics, among others. As with the Elise, this solution to the basic problem involves compromise. The best product is the one that works best for YOU.
You may find many of these extra steps time consuming, and I might even agree with you there. It can be! However, for my personal needs, the cost of time and effort is worth it when it comes to the final results. To some extent detailing becomes a hobby for some, and for others it's just a chore. Let's find out more about your needs...
Durability: There are other products that can outperform Rejex. [email protected] was able to get 6 weeks out of the product. Can't confirm them myself, but even if it lasts 12 weeks, there are sealants on the market that outperform it. Six months out of Klasse Sealant Glaze is not uncommon. How often are you willing to rewax?
Maintenance: This category can tie into durability to some extent. Keeping your car garaged and clean can increase the durability of your wax. This is basically a zero effort item. Wiping your car down with a quick detailer after each wash also helps improve the durability and surface quality. Using a California Car Duster keeps the dust off and helps with aesthetics. Mr. Clean Auto Dry's may indeed save you drying time, but it may fall short in other areas. For example, Einszett Perls solution smells great, provides more lubrication, and some gloss enhancement. Zaino car wash also improves longevity for Zaino'd vehicles specifically. Perls also does this for regular waxes by keeping the surface clean, but Zaino has some kind of replenishing effect. The tradeoff is that I must dry my car, but it only takes me 20 minutes or so to do this.
It has been said that Rejex doesn't let things stick to it. It's made by a lubrication company BTW. Dirt washes off a waxed surface more easily than an unwaxed surface, in so far as our paint discussion goes. Is Rejex so superior in this regard that you are willing to discontinue use of any other product? That's for you to judge.
Aesthetics: I will preface this by saying the new cars looking pretty darn good when you take delivery! Simply topping a new car with your favorite wax will be good enough for most people by far. There isn't much to touch or do to it as far as prep.
How good your paint looks after it's all said and done is really a product of the surface preparation, not just the wax you used. If you only do the minimum of applying a wax layer like Rejex, it's not going to look as good as what [email protected]'s Paradise can do with polishes, and two different kinds of wax layered. In terms of pure looks with the wax, a lot of people find other products superior to Rejex, but at the cost of something else like effort or durability or cost to buy the product. Rejex will benefit from surface prep like polishing and swirl removal, just like any other product. It's also attention to "detail" that makes a car look good. Not only what is done to the paint, but protecting the rubber trim, keeping the tires dressed, the wheels clean, exhaust tip polished, diffuser free of soot, the leather in good conditon, the interior clean, etc. All this takes time.
Monetary cost: It's possible to spend hundreds of dollars on orbital buffers, microfiber towels, cotton towels, applicators, different kinds of polishes, chemical cleaners, degreasers, vacuums, brushes, waxes, and things of this nature. It's really a hobby. How far to you want to go with it?
So basically you have to weigh all of these considerations when choosing. Rejex is pretty straightforward, provides pretty good shine and is comparable to a product like Liquid Glass. Coupled with Mr. Clean Autodry you can keep your car fairly clean.
Personally, I'm not into the concours thing, as the effort really isn't worth it. But what I do like is an outstanding looking car to drive around with relatively low maintenance (to me), that may require substantial initial effort when applying the products. This means not merely using Rejex and something a little more robust. If you just want a product to apply every couple months and forget about it, then you might not care about what else there is out there.
If you made it this far, I'm very very sorry for writing this much.
- J
PS: And while I preach on, I have a very dirty black car sitting at home that needs some serious work.
Joined
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5,249 Posts
Zaino is a synthetic wax and their website explains the differences between the products. You will need ZFX, Z2, and optionally Z5 if you prefer. Z6 and Z7 are also good products and are beneficial if the paint has Zaino on it, but it's up to you.
Quick detail sprays are great to help remove excess wax residue or after washes to both liven up the finish and remove any water spots. Some people use it in conjuction with the California Car Duster between washes to keep the car clean. You tend to go through a good amount of it if you detail frequently. They aren't harmful to the paint at all, but the usual rules apply. If there is dirt on the surface or you use a bad towel, you can scratch the surface up. Otherwise, they are generally fine.
If you find some odd product that is abrasive, then it could be harmful, but I can't think of any. 4Star Ultimate Gloss Enhancer and Zaino's are my favorites. Meguiars and Eagle One make decent products if I need to get something off the shelf locally. Almost every company makes a quick detailer and there are many good products out there. Some contain wax.
BTW, I hear Detailer's Paradise (forum sponsor) is going to be carrying 4Star products in the future.
Quick detail sprays are great to help remove excess wax residue or after washes to both liven up the finish and remove any water spots. Some people use it in conjuction with the California Car Duster between washes to keep the car clean. You tend to go through a good amount of it if you detail frequently. They aren't harmful to the paint at all, but the usual rules apply. If there is dirt on the surface or you use a bad towel, you can scratch the surface up. Otherwise, they are generally fine.
If you find some odd product that is abrasive, then it could be harmful, but I can't think of any. 4Star Ultimate Gloss Enhancer and Zaino's are my favorites. Meguiars and Eagle One make decent products if I need to get something off the shelf locally. Almost every company makes a quick detailer and there are many good products out there. Some contain wax.
BTW, I hear Detailer's Paradise (forum sponsor) is going to be carrying 4Star products in the future.
Joined
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5,249 Posts
I feel comfortable using Klasse AIO on the starshield occassionally to clean off the surface because it's not very abrasive, but you will definitely want to use when prepping the surface (maybe every 6-12 months) or when it needs a mild polishing. Otherwise, just use Klasse SG all the time.
A good reason to use AIO the first time is to remove any wax your dealer applied, but you can get away with a stronger car wash if it's been a while. Having either a clean slate or an AIO base should help SG stick.
It's a toolbox out there. Tons of approaches, see what you like best.
A good reason to use AIO the first time is to remove any wax your dealer applied, but you can get away with a stronger car wash if it's been a while. Having either a clean slate or an AIO base should help SG stick.
It's a toolbox out there. Tons of approaches, see what you like best.
Joined
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5,249 Posts
Hi Ryan,
DavidB, the owner of Autopia.org, has rights to the Sonus brand here and sells products under the label. I believe it's otherwise a German brand. Autopia does hype a lot of products, but it's not all unwarranted. It's less the product, but the technique you use.
I have not tried his entire line, but things that I have tried are very good. His SFX-3 polish (finest of the three) is a great finishing polish and is easy to use with a Porter Cable. I also have his green SFX Ultrafine clay, which is probably the least abrasive clay I have tried. It's great for mid year clean ups where you don't need much bite.
I wouldn't hesistate to try all of his products, but there are more than adequate substitues on the market too. There are so many good products on the market that you have to find what you like to use best. The other thing to keep in mind is that no one brand has a complete line of products. Sonus doesn't have a wax or sealant. Zaino is missing some misc. items like a wheel cleaner (though you can just use car wash shampoo). Not a huge fan of Meguiar's, but you still get great results with their products.
You could always try Detailer's Paradise's Starter bundle. It has microfiber towels, wash mitt, shampoo, and a lot of little items that are helpful. It doesn't have a real swirl mark remover or pure polish, so you may have to buy that on the side.
A lot of this also depends on how much effort you are willing to put into this. How often to rewax, how much polishing you want to do, etc.
- J
DavidB, the owner of Autopia.org, has rights to the Sonus brand here and sells products under the label. I believe it's otherwise a German brand. Autopia does hype a lot of products, but it's not all unwarranted. It's less the product, but the technique you use.
I have not tried his entire line, but things that I have tried are very good. His SFX-3 polish (finest of the three) is a great finishing polish and is easy to use with a Porter Cable. I also have his green SFX Ultrafine clay, which is probably the least abrasive clay I have tried. It's great for mid year clean ups where you don't need much bite.
I wouldn't hesistate to try all of his products, but there are more than adequate substitues on the market too. There are so many good products on the market that you have to find what you like to use best. The other thing to keep in mind is that no one brand has a complete line of products. Sonus doesn't have a wax or sealant. Zaino is missing some misc. items like a wheel cleaner (though you can just use car wash shampoo). Not a huge fan of Meguiar's, but you still get great results with their products.
You could always try Detailer's Paradise's Starter bundle. It has microfiber towels, wash mitt, shampoo, and a lot of little items that are helpful. It doesn't have a real swirl mark remover or pure polish, so you may have to buy that on the side.
A lot of this also depends on how much effort you are willing to put into this. How often to rewax, how much polishing you want to do, etc.
- J
Joined
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5,249 Posts
Interesting idea for the seams.
Note that for the surface of the paint, it's usually not that towel or item you are using, but the grit or dirt you're trying to wipe away that scratches.
I may give that a try for one specific area where scratches will not be visible.
Note that for the surface of the paint, it's usually not that towel or item you are using, but the grit or dirt you're trying to wipe away that scratches.
I may give that a try for one specific area where scratches will not be visible.
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