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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE: This was overdone and more things are listed here than are needed lol - please skip from STEP 1 to STEP 5 for just the steering wheel removal. The rest is purely excess and not needed because someone (myself) got a little overly enthusiastic about removing "things".

This is going to document the removal and replacement of my 2011 steering wheel with a 2012+ spec one. It is larger in diameter, larger grip area, better finger grips behind (especially at the 3 and 9 positions). I did this because after feeling one, I wanted it - that is all.

Required tools:

Philips head
A multitude of hex sizes (at least 4) so bring a kit.
T30 Star bit - this seems to be a standard for airbags?


Optional:
Foam double sided tape - just in case the tape on yours doesn't stick back (mine did just fine)
Beer (not much needed - quick job)

Initial shot:


New wheel design:


Step 1 - Disconnect the battery - you are playing with the airbag and do not need it deploying.

[OPTIONAL] Step 2 - Removing the knee bolster
Remove the 2 hex bolts that are inside each of the slits and then gently pull the front down and away from the amazingly strong Velcro holding it up.


[OPTIONAL] Step 3 - Remove the 2 screws and 1 hex holding the steering column shroud together.
2 screws:

1 hex - this was a pain - make sure to hold the plastic fastener with your finger to keep it from spinning while removing the screw:


[OPTIONAL] Step 4 - poke the plastic clips holding the shroud together - the top will still be attached - the bottom should simply fall down - it has 2 foam pieces inside so make sure they stay put.


Intermission - 2 naked shots of the column - pretty cool :)



Step 5 - use the T30 Star bit to remove the 2 screws holding the airbag in place. (see picture above)


Step 6 - pull the airbag out slowly and disconnect it from the wheel:



Step 7 - remove the 6 hex bolts holding the wheel on and disconnect the tech package cruise controls if you have them:


Step 8 - remove the rear plastic fascia by removing the 4 Phillips screws (see picture above) and then disconnect the wiring harness from the 2 switches.

Step 9 - remove the 4 Phillips screws from the 2 switches:


Step 10 - remove the 3 pressure fasteners holding the plastic cover to the front of the wheel:


Step 11 - SLOWLY pry the front plastic piece off the wheel - it is held in these locations by sticky double sided foam tape - I reused it on the next wheel because it was still very sticky:


Step 12 - the switches should now fall out of the steering wheel skeleton and you are completely dissembled.

Final removal picture - this made me want to get a removable steering wheel so if I felt like it - race mode when getting out lol.



Just go in reverse to put it back together.
1 - put switches in and screw them into place
2 - replace plastic front piece (new foam tape if desired) using 3 rear fasteners
3 - hook up the switch wires
4 - 4 screws into rear plastic piece
5 - 6 hex nuts and cruise control switch clip
6 - air bag clip and 2 screws to attach it - (Done unless you are like me and removed more than you needed to...)
[OPTIONAL] 7 - snap the steering column shroud back together (be careful at the back - to get it perfectly lined up took longer than expected)
[OPTIONAL] 8 - 3 screws to attach the shroud
[OPTIONAL] 9 - 2 screws to attach the knee bolster - then press into the Velcro.
10 - reconnect the battery

One last hint - once you remove the battery, don't close the trunk unless you want to have to use the manual method of reopening the hatch.

--P

Any questions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm confused - why was it necessary to remove the lower part of the column shroud?

I took my MY10 steering wheel off without doing any of that...
So this is what initially went through my head when reading this post:

"The knee bolster or the plastic steering column shroud? The knee bolster was removed because getting access to the third screw on the bottom was going to be troublesome and instead of making it hard - I just removed the piece that was in the way. It was also easier to remove the shroud to get to the back of the steering wheel to remove the..."

And then it hit me: It is definitely NOT required lol.

So yes - I'll revise the post but this is why I made the thread - because people like me have no idea how to do it and I could have used this to save probably 40 of the 60 min I spent on this project.

Good spot and thanks hifiandmtd! :)
 

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So this is what initially went through my head when reading this post:

"The knee bolster or the plastic steering column shroud? The knee bolster was removed because getting access to the third screw on the bottom was going to be troublesome and instead of making it hard - I just removed the piece that was in the way. It was also easier to remove the shroud to get to the back of the steering wheel to remove the..."

And then it hit me: It is definitely NOT required lol.

So yes - I'll revise the post but this is why I made the thread - because people like me have no idea how to do it and I could have used this to save probably 40 of the 60 min I spent on this project.

Good spot and thanks hifiandmtd! :)
Yea its not required to remove the lower part. I did this upgrade in late 2012. Hardest part for me was removing the trim-plat since it had D/S tape to secure it + the crush washers. I had to replace my D/S tape since I needed to heat mine up to remove the face plat. IMO its a must upgrade and it make the car feel so much better. :;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yea its not required to remove the lower part. I did this upgrade in late 2012. Hardest part for me was removing the trim-plat since it had D/S tape to secure it + the crush washers. I had to replace my D/S tape since I needed to heat mine up to remove the face plat. IMO its a must upgrade and it make the car feel so much better. :;)
It's your fault I did this upgrade lol. I love the feel.

Do you have a part number and where did you order it from?
I don't have the part number handy but there is only one available (no stitching options or leather options on the wheel). I got it from Lotus of Plano (Park Place).
 

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Excellent post! I will be ordering this soon. I need to search for a carbon fiber replacement for the metal piece the surrounds the airbag assembly.
 

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komo tec has one...cool 900 euro IIRC...would be cheaper to just order an extra aluminum and skin it in carbon fiber, or make a quick mold (wouldn't be too hard) and do it yourself.
 
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