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Discussion Starter #1
Question for Travis and some of the other folks who've converted the braking system.

I've got the stock Toyota/Renault 89 brakes right now, but I'm thinking about options. No need for solution details yet (especially since I don't have any!), but my question is about replacing the hubs / rotors. From what I've seen, folks are retaining the stock hubs, and just not bolting the stock rotors to the back of the hub. Is this correct? If continuing to use bolted rotors, how are these sourced? If converting to floating rotors, since the wheels are hub centric, how is the wheel mounting properly over a floating disc that's on top of the hub, what's the effect on wheel-track spacing, and what length wheel bolts are being used (and are they going through the rotor and then into the hub)?

I may not be asking the right questions, even, but for those who've been down this path, hopefully you can help me figure out what I'm trying to understand anyway :)
 

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Wingless Wonder
1988 Esprit Turbo
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...folks are retaining the stock hubs, and just not bolting the stock rotors to the back of the hub. Is this correct?
Hi Dale,


I bolted my cyro'ed rotors to the stock hubs years ago. Why would you do it any other way? I too fail to see the benefit from leaving the rotors "loose". (Though, they would not be loose, once clamped tightly by the wheels, right?)
If continuing to use bolted rotors, how are these sourced? :)

When I was shopping, the difference between Lotus rotors and OEM Celica rotors was only about 3%. (That is what my cyro vendor, FrozenRotors.com, insisted on) So they got 'em from Lotus.


At least I am SUBSCRIBED to this Topic so I can learn what it all means. :huh:
 

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I designed my new floating rotors to bolt to the back of the hub in the front as normal for the Toyota braked Esprit, which the X180-R had as well. And over the hub in the rear, as normal.

If you switch to having the rotor hat go over the outside of the hub, then that will space the wheels out by that amount. The hub spigot should be long enough to center the wheels.

With my aluminum hats, I didn't want the bolt holes ovaling out so I made steel bobbins to spread the load and protect the aluminum. That isn't the problem with an over hub rotor hat, but those need to be deep dished and are more expensive.

In that case, wheel bolts should be longer, a hat is usually 6mm thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Travis...

Got it for the most part. That was helpful. Just curious about....

QUOTE=Vulcan Grey;2625449]With my aluminum hats, I didn't want the bolt holes ovaling out so I made steel bobbins to spread the load and protect the aluminum. That isn't the problem with an over hub rotor hat...[/QUOTE]

Why isn't it a problem with the over the hub design? Is that because the wheel is compressed against the hub, keeping the rotor from putting as much stress against just the bolts? Or is there something else?

Thanks!
 
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