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Just a quick point of correction...there is access between the radio slot and the HVAC grommet--that is how I wired my ipod adapter. On mine there was a plastic panel taped in place that hid the grommet from the radio slot, but it comes right out.
Interesting find, I had completely missed that. So, no need to drill a hole. yellowvert, remove the "A" post panel cover on the passenger side by removing two screws inside the cubby hole. Feed the wire along and behind the passenger airbag untill you can see it trough the A post opening. In the corner where the parcel shelf and the side sill meet there is a little rat hole big enough to feed wires trough from the A post area to the under dash area, you could route it around to the vent opening or as I describe in post #25 to the front side of firewall and fish it between firewall and fan.
 

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Ok this is what happened :( anyway to fix this solution without taking it to the dealership??? HELP ASAP. Car turns on fine.
 

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Ok but the end wire i showed in the photo is burned to a crisp, so is there any point of reconnecting it again.
 

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Ok but the end wire i showed in the photo is burned to a crisp, so is there any point of reconnecting it again.
You can either use a new #12 awg wire with a new connector attached or cut off the fried end and splice a new wire into it. BTW, hemostats would be good as they lock.
Michael
 

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All right thanks. I will let you know how it works once we are done with our break.
 

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Now i can say "SUCCESS" :D All we need to do is hook up a toggle switch and we be all set. Thanks a lot SirLotus. Really big help and the thread too. But would like to make one change to the step if that is fine.
 

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Now i can say "SUCCESS" :D All we need to do is hook up a toggle switch and we be all set. Thanks a lot SirLotus. Really big help and the thread too. But would like to make one change to the step if that is fine.
How was reconnecting the wire to the fan? Any positive input is greatly appreciated. Why a toggle switch, aren't you going to connect it to the fan switch.
Michael
 

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Yeah duh lol..... just realized after i posted the most recent post... :p And reconnecting was time consuming even though i was the perfect fit since I am 5'4" 140 :D
 

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I know i am being a pain in the ass about 'how to route the wire to the switch' but I am really hoping for a photo, so i can get an idea of where to route this exactly and not screw anything up. I know the explanations are mentioned in the thread earlier and well explained, but its tough to get a mental picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Question

This is what it looks like right now (first photo). Second photo is what is circled in red (two separate circles) - so my first question is if i route the white wire (that you see is taped up for safety precautions) in through the hole where you see the first red circle closest to you and route it inside and coming out the other end where you see the 2nd red circle, would that work? I mean has anyone else thought of this solution? Third photo is the red circle again and i am planning to do it this way... Drill a small hole where the center control console sits and wire it from behind. Is there anything i am going to hit when i drill a small hole behind like wires and all that?

I hope this is clear enough. Tell me what you think. Any type of feedback or suggestions is much appreciated.
 

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The alternative wiring route (there are many) is not to route the wire directly into the cabin. Take the wire straight up through the blower foam insulation to under the passenger side access panel. Now route though the harness grommet under the fuse box into the cabin. Now in the cabin, route into the passenger side cubby (there is a small space) and across behind the air bag to the radio (remove) and down and through the grommet that goes to the HVAC console. Sounds complicated but a visual will help.
Michael
 

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It works!

SUCCESS! And its finally done. Here are the following three photos of we did with the wire and the big gaping hole :D
 

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Couple of comments.
1) How did you access the fan speed switch, it looks like you may have drilled a hole.
2) You really should route that wire up, and away from the pedals.
Michael
 

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In response to your comments:

1. We actually did drill a small little hole underneath where you see the white wire running up to. And tucked behind safely. Should have taken pictures while this was being done, but I didn't do the electrical work since my dad is very experienced in that area.

2. It seems fine to us and it is really not in the way of the pedal. I may use electrical tape to tape it down.

Once agaiin SirLotus thanks for the all the help.
 

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For those that want all 3 speeds to work, a new resistor pack can be installed without removing the clam or HVAC components.
1) The three wires for the 3 speeds are accessible at the fan speed switch.
2) The positive wire to the blower motor is accessible as described above.
3) The resistor pack needs to be in an airflow to keep cool, therefore in the nose air intake seems like a good location.
4) Route all 4 wires (1 & 2 above) to the nose air intake and connect to new resistor pack.
5) There are wiring routes through to the nose.
Michael
 

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For those that want all 3 speeds to work, a new resistor pack can be installed without removing the clam or HVAC components.
1) The three wires for the 3 speeds are accessible at the fan speed switch.
2) The positive wire to the blower motor is accessible as described above.
3) The resistor pack needs to be in an airflow to keep cool, therefore in the nose air intake seems like a good location.
4) Route all 4 wires (1 & 2 above) to the nose air intake and connect to new resistor pack.
5) There are wiring routes through to the nose.
Michael
This is very topical, the car I was in the process of buying seems to have developed this problem. I'm not totally getting you, you're saying you still need to cut the access panel? Can you elaborate please?
 
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