[Rhythmaker]

Two Lug Bolts are completely stuck. I have tried Using a breaker bar, an impact wrench, and have tried to spray WD40 etc. I have broken two of the Hex tools, and a breaker bar. :wallbang: They absolutely wont budge... at all.

I have tried hitting (catiously) a rod placed in the middle of the bolt to help loosen the bolts, didnt help.

Any Ideas? besides taking it in somewhere.... :shrug:

 

[Chris Mackey]

Figure out a way to get it cold. Like packing ice on the hub of the wheel in a bag, and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then try.

If that doesn't work, drill out the wheel lugs and buy new ones.

 

[RoadDad]

Kroil or PB Blaster.

WD-40 is a "water displacer" (hence the WD) and is not designed as a penetrating lubricant.

 

[Rhythmaker]

Figure out a way to get it cold. Like packing ice on the hub of the wheel in a bag, and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then try.

If that doesn't work, drill out the wheel lugs and buy new ones.

Can you give me more insight into the drilling out method? I don't understand how I would do that without damaging the female-end threading

 

[Seb]

Try heating them

 

[Chris Mackey]

Get a drill bit smaller than the hole and make a new hole through the wheel bolt. The wheel bolt will relax and should come out, maybe in pieces.

Try the ice first. I watched it work one time.

 

[Chris Mackey]

Try heating them

No no no. The bolt will expand before the hole does and make it worse. Get them cold and the bolt will shrink first.

 

[elisesile]

After my adventure, a buddy of mine said he had welded another bolt to the head and taken it off that way. Different car though (truck or something).

I smiled and squirted PB Blaster on the bolt as RoadDad suggested.

 

[2Low4morego]

Yes, yes, yes.

Heat the bolt, then quench it with cold water. The bolt cools and shrinks faster than the warm hub, then imediately try and remove it. The difference in the expansion and contraction of the two also loosens and rust or crud in the threads. Old machine shop trick.
Then buy new bolts or better yet studs and nuts.

No no no. The bolt will expand before the hole does and make it worse. Get them cold and the bolt will shrink first.

 

[Seb]

You could try one of those co2 dust remover things. They are freakin cold.

 

[Chris Mackey]

Heat the bolt, then quench it with cold water.

You'll break things, which is fine as long as they are the bolts. The sudden temperature change might crack the wheel, too.

 

[Dapcius]

If they are not stripped shouldn't be a problem .What you need is a good impact regular ones will have 100 ft-lbs most profesional ones will have 400-600 .In my opinion easiest way just take car to any mechanical shop ask them to loosen them . Will cost you few bucks for a tip .

 

[Rhythmaker]

Appreciate the ideas! Keep em coming... The contrasting thought processes is educating!

 

[RoadDad]

Seriously just spray some Kroil or PB Blaster on it and let it soak in. They are penetrating lubricants. No damage to your bits.

 

[mrcarcrazy]

Seriously just spray some Kroil or PB Blaster on it and let it soak in. They are penetrating lubricants. No damage to your bits.

As much as I hate to say it, I agree w/ RoadDad. :crazyeyes give the least invasive approach a try before resorting to things that may make this a much bigger issue. (just messing with you RD)

Jack the car up so you can spin the wheel as needed.

spray inside bolt holes, around the hub (where wheel meets hub), and in back if u can find access.

Do it a few times giving it 10 mins (arbitrary number) to soak between applications. and do this 5-6 times at least. (another arbitrary number)

I've even had luck letting things soak overnight. it takes patience, but please don't go after your car with a torch and water just yet.

I personally would be more likely to hit it with an impact before I hit it with a torch.

 

[tesprit]

As much as I hate to say it, I agree w/ RoadDad. :crazyeyes give the least invasive approach a try before resorting to things that may make this a much bigger issue. (just messing with you RD)

Jack the car up so you can spin the wheel as needed.

spray inside bolt holes, around the hub (where wheel meets hub), and in back if u can find access.

Do it a few times giving it 10 mins (arbitrary number) to soak between applications. and do this 5-6 times at least. (another arbitrary number)

I've even had luck letting things soak overnight. it takes patience, but please don't go after your car with a torch and water just yet.

I personally would be more likely to hit it with an impact before I hit it with a torch.

+1
The patient approach is always the best. A torch will work, but you will destroy your wheel and may damage the hub and bearings as well. The impact wrench can easily snap off a lug or the spline tool. Do the penetrating oil for a couple of days first.

 

[Max Smith]

I know you said you used a breaker bar but I always liked this old school approach.
Stick a nice long trolley jack handle over the ratchet handle. The additional length/leverage allows for a sloooooow smoooooth increase in pressure that should reduce the stress that is causing the Hex tool to snap.

Failing that, I recommend Tri-nitrotoluene.

 

[Rhythmaker]

I know you said you used a breaker bar but I always liked this old school approach.
Stick a nice long trolley jack handle over the ratchet handle. The additional length/leverage allows for a sloooooow smoooooth increase in pressure that should reduce the stress that is causing the Hex tool to snap.

Failing that, I recommend Tri-nitrotoluene.

This is what i tried when i broke the first tool AND ratchet...

I bought some PB Blaster, gonna give it a go again this weekend. Let me just say, that is the most obnoxious product label that i think exists on the planet! hilarious!! rotfl

 

[steidley]

PB Blaster + patience is really your best bet.

The long arm of the law methods will likely just snap some tool or bolt. (long pipe on ratchet is also not too good for ratchet. pipe on breaker bar makes more sense if you care about your ratchet.)

Heat is the old school way to get things off, but I'd be worried about cooking the wrong part since I've never done it before.

The tool I've got to remove the security bolts is made from Al, and I"m sure it is acting like a torque stick when I use the impact gun. My impact gun wouldn't take anything off where they were just torqued to spec. I think that long aluminum thing is jsut twisting when it takes the hit from the impact wrench. I dont think more imapct wrench will do much of anything.

Wheel studs and lug nuts is a good switch, also easier to put wheels on if you are switching them all the time. About $100 and you are good to go on that.

Good luck,
Adam

 

[Bane]

I wonder what got them so tight to begin with? You may want to inspect the hub for damage after you do get them off.

PB Blaster + impact gun gets my vote.