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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering getting the highly recommended flat top Esco stands ($110/pair). I'm thinking of just driving the car onto my home-built low profile ramps and have the back of the car on jackstands. I've watched a few videos and read articles about where to place the jackstands. So, 2 stands OK for this job (engine oil & transmission)?
Thanks!

https://howtune.com/articles/124-locating-the-correct-lift-points-on-a-lotus-elise
 

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You can't put the rear on jack stands without first removing the diffuser (which is annoying if the car isn't already lifted). I use two flat top stands up front and race ramps on the rear, similar to what this video shows.

 
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I'm doing extended work on my car at the moment - I have the rear up on ramps and the front up on stands. That's getting everything done that I need to do, and gives me more working room under the engine than I'd have with just the ramps under the rear.

Of all the systems I've seen, I think my favorite (other than a lift) is the long set of ramps (longer than the car)that you back up - a poster did them about 10 years ago here. This gets the front wheels 6" or so off the ground, and the rear more than two feet in the air. The downside is that you have enormous plywood ramps to store somewhere.

The common compromise of jack + ramps + stands will allow you to get the car up in any combination of support points you might need for a particular kind of work. It's slow, but it does the job. Like just about everybody, I use the smallest/lightest Harbor Freight aluminum racecar jack.

I will admit to considering a lift for this car - it's so low to the ground, and so short that I could actually park something else under it in the off season even in my 9 1/2 foot garage.
 

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You can't put the rear on jack stands without first removing the diffuser (which is annoying if the car isn't already lifted). I use two flat top stands up front and race ramps on the rear, similar to what this video shows.
You need to remove the undertray and you can place jack stands on the jack points without removing the diffuser. Yes, the diffuser is a pain to remove but no need to for an oil change. Before I picked up a lift I built flat top stands for the front and rear wheels to keep the car level-ish when doing oil changes, worked well and made removing the undertray easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I already have 4 ramps. Can I do it this way:

Jack up one side of the car, get 2 wheels on that side on ramps.
Jack up other side of car, get those 2 wheels on ramps.
Now all 4 wheels are on ramps.
No need for jackstands.
Proceed to remove undertray.

Thanks,
 

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I simply back onto steel (strong) metal ramps. I was therefore able to weld a stronger stop on the ramps, just in case.

I see no need to lift the front at all; not done in 14 years here.
 

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I already have 4 ramps. Can I do it this way:

Jack up one side of the car, get 2 wheels on that side on ramps.
Jack up other side of car, get those 2 wheels on ramps.
Now all 4 wheels are on ramps.
No need for jackstands.
Proceed to remove undertray.

Thanks,
I have the Esco's as well but don't use them for changing the oil. Also, I don't really see the need to get all four corners up to do an oil change.

I use my race jack, jack it up at point A and slide the ramp under the rear wheel, rinse repeat on the other side. Takes less than 5 minutes. I don't like backing up with the ramps I have (low profile rhino's) as they tend to slide when doing so.
 

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I use a set of plastic ramps and back the car onto those. After that I put some wood under the front wheels to keep the car from moving.
 

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I already have 4 ramps. Can I do it this way:

Jack up one side of the car, get 2 wheels on that side on ramps.
Jack up other side of car, get those 2 wheels on ramps.
Now all 4 wheels are on ramps.
No need for jackstands.
Proceed to remove undertray.

Thanks,
Yes, you can do it that way too. I sometimes do this.
 

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Be careful driving up the ramps. I have seeing plenty slide under the car damaging the side sills.
 

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Be careful driving up the ramps. I have seeing plenty slide under the car damaging the side sills.
Yes, which is why I got steel ramps (plus benefit I already listed above).
 

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Ramps

I made some ramps out of ¾" plywood, a 4'x8' sheet. The ramps are 1' wide by 1' tall.

Simply drive on and an oil change is easy.

I made a center rib for strength plus braces as shown. I tested the ramps by driving the Astro Van on them - at over 4000 pounds, a good test.

I now use them for oil changes on the Evora, Hyundai, and Astro Van.

It is good to have another person watching while you slowly drive on.
 

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The Jack Helper ought to come with the car. Pop her up, slide in ramps (no driving onto them). Could be done in about three minutes without a hurry. Then you’re good to go for an oil change.

Those flat tops are the way to go if you plan to do much like even brake work.

The best gadget I have come up with for anything involving removing the diffuser or access panels is a small cordless drill. Small and low power. Just enough to loosen and tighten the small bolts just right. Really quick.

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/WEN-49036-Cordless-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B00AOJFO4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=3.6-Volt+Lithium-Ion+Cordless+1%2F4+in.+Electric+Screwdriver&qid=1553973262&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr0[/ame]

2230BAFE-6D38-457C-ADCB-2484142A7387.jpg
 

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You can't put the rear on jack stands without first removing the diffuser (which is annoying if the car isn't already lifted). I use two flat top stands up front and race ramps on the rear, similar to what this video shows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x90lFJxwdxY
Thanks for making a video of that strategy.

Personally, I would not feel comfortable with the stands you made holding the jack helper. Neat stratedy, but just not what I would prefer.

No need to remove the diffuser whether it’s supported or not.

Our car is lowered, track prepped, and I can still get that same Harbor Freight jack under it. Never drive her on to anything except the trailer.
 
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