My car is idling at around 2k. Someone suggested pb blasting the throttle cable (which I did) but it still seems to idle at 2k. If I pull the choke back out, it will drop a few hundred. Any suggestions? It is sort of cold here in the DC area. It runs fine and I keep driving the crap out of it, but every stop light stop sign - idles at 2k ish.. don't want to damage anything, when I put it in first gear and take off, it will drop back to around 1100 so... but clutch out, 2K consistently...
Idle on 83 G
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See if the throttle adjustment screw is on it's stop when it is warmed up, A/C off, and "idling". (Follow the throttle cable to the quadrant linkage).
If not, the throttle jacking capsule might be a place to start troubleshooting.
If so, it's in the carbs, and I wouldn't be able to help ya.
Have you ever checked for intake tract leaks by spraying an aerosol at the various seams in the intake? Any change in RPMs when doing this indicates a leak...
If not, the throttle jacking capsule might be a place to start troubleshooting.
If so, it's in the carbs, and I wouldn't be able to help ya.
Have you ever checked for intake tract leaks by spraying an aerosol at the various seams in the intake? Any change in RPMs when doing this indicates a leak...
I'll take a better look at the adjustment screw if I can find it. Come to think of it, with this new tank of gas, I put in redline fuel system cleaner. It is now down to half a tank. Maybe this has something to do with it? Also I used 93 oct. should I go for a lower oct gas? Maybe that has something to do with it?
Stick with premium gasoline.
Your fuel system cleaner has done too good a job maybe, so now you just need to readjust the idle. Fooling with carbs according to the season is something I don't miss on more modern cars.
Just another thought, the distributor incorporates both a vacumm retard and vacuum advice (two hoses). Make sure both are connected. (You can peek through the #2 & #3 intake runners to see, might need a small mirror to actually look, can't remember)
Your fuel system cleaner has done too good a job maybe, so now you just need to readjust the idle. Fooling with carbs according to the season is something I don't miss on more modern cars.
Just another thought, the distributor incorporates both a vacumm retard and vacuum advice (two hoses). Make sure both are connected. (You can peek through the #2 & #3 intake runners to see, might need a small mirror to actually look, can't remember)
Thanks, will do on the gas. I've put over 300 miles on her already, and it really does run well for a 30 year old car. I mean it runs really smooth, it's just idling high with the clutch out at stop signs/lights.. How do I readjust the idle? Is there a screw? If so, where is it? Some of the research I've done online says the 'screw' is 'tamper proof' and requires a special tool? Also I can't find photos showing where the screw is. I'm guessing you also have to hold the 'switch' down and the lid up to access the engine while running?
The idle screw is just a regular slotted screw, nothing special. I use a small screwdriver about 6" (150mm) long.
Just stand on the left side of the car, observe the throttle cable, and follow it towards the right side of the car. You should be able to see the quadrant (quarter of a "wheel"), and the screw is underneath. (OF COURSE)
It faces the left side of the car.Turn the screw counterclockwise a bit (lefty-loosey), start with maybe a quarter turn with the engine warmed up but off. (less intimidating that way.) Then re-start the warm engine and see what the RPMs are.
Once you find the idle screw you can adjust it easily with the engine running.
I'd suggest aiming for 1000 - 1100 RPM at first. And BTW, that is with the lights on and the blower (heater only) on HIGH. (Large electrical demands lower the idle, so in order to prevent battery drain in traffic, this is how you prep for idle adjustment)
No need to hold the switch for the engine cover fan, when doing this.
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Again, your car has carbs, mine does not...but I think that the "tamper proof" refers to the idle mixture screws, not the idle RPM screw.
Maybe someone like Esprit888 has a pic handy, I'm at work and I do not.
Esprit888 didn't have any photos. I monkeyed with the scew on the front carb that has the hard wire leading back to the rear carb that has the braided wire leading back to the gas pedal. Somehow I don't think that was the right one..? Anyway, still 2k idle...
I found the attached pics of the idle adjustment screw on my '88 (Bosch Fuel Injection). Hopefully it's the same. Does your setup have the quadrant in the first image? The spring loaded screw is the one to adjust and it should work on the linkage that connects ALL the carbs. I think you were messing with the "other" end of the linkage, that which helps balance the carbs individually. The proper way to do that is with a manometer (which is a device for measuring airflow). If you can, put it back to exactly where it was.
The grooved section shown is where the throttle cable rides. As the cable is pulled by the gas pedal, it rotates the quadrant and pulls the screw off the stops as the throttles open.
The single rod connected to the triangle bracket is the throttle jack actuator, which opens the throttles when the air conditioner is on.
That's the extent of my knowledge of carburetted Esprits, sorry.
The grooved section shown is where the throttle cable rides. As the cable is pulled by the gas pedal, it rotates the quadrant and pulls the screw off the stops as the throttles open.
The single rod connected to the triangle bracket is the throttle jack actuator, which opens the throttles when the air conditioner is on.
That's the extent of my knowledge of carburetted Esprits, sorry.
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Sorry Pete I wasn't following this thread so didn't know what you were looking for. Depending on what carbs you have its advisable NOT to mess with the synchronization lever (number 3 on the drawing) unless its already out of tune. The idle screw is number 2 and rests against the lever arm on the rear carb (dellortos) this is the one you adjust but be careful as its very close to the mixture screws (number 5) Having said all that its not normal for the idle speed to suddenly jump up to 2000 rpm (or was it like this originally ?) as the screw is a tight fit and if anything it will loosen which lowers the idle. Try adjusting the idle screw but I would also suggest making sure the throttle arm sits fully on it first and that it is not binding holding the throttle valves open.
Colin
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someone suggested the throttle cable, but I don't think that's it. I'll recheck. It was idling fine when I got it, say somewhere between 1100 and 1500? I start it and it idles at say 1300, then slowly works up to near 1900 2000. Definitely not a 'sudden jump'. Runs fine no problems driving, but now hovering around 1900 - 2000ish.. (clutch in, clutch out, doesn't matter, just idling high) I filled the tanks and put a bottle of Redline Fuel treatment in each tank.. uh, prolly shoulda left it alone.. fuel tanks are about due for a refill... I've put over 400 miles in the last month. Want to drive as much as possible in case we get snow this year. Then I'll have to deal with 'winterizing' it I guess.....
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Can you back that screw out a few turns then reach in and pull the throttle arm towards the screw, see if it is fully seating on the idle screw
I'll give that a whirl today. Should have more time to spend on it today too.
well, scooby doo, looks like the mystery is finally solved... appears that the choke cable is sticking and the choke isn't going off. Ran it with the lid up, noticed the 'choke' doesn't fully disengage, which probable explains why the rpm's 'crept' up... pb blasted it, messed with the cable, but it still doesn't completely close.. stays maybe about a quarter inch open. Pushed it all the way closed by hand (farthest forward) drove around for 30 minutes and it was fine. Idled at around 1200 the whole time. not exactly sure what the choke fix will entail...
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