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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My car is idling at around 2k. Someone suggested pb blasting the throttle cable (which I did) but it still seems to idle at 2k. If I pull the choke back out, it will drop a few hundred. Any suggestions? It is sort of cold here in the DC area. It runs fine and I keep driving the crap out of it, but every stop light stop sign - idles at 2k ish.. don't want to damage anything, when I put it in first gear and take off, it will drop back to around 1100 so... but clutch out, 2K consistently...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll take a better look at the adjustment screw if I can find it. Come to think of it, with this new tank of gas, I put in redline fuel system cleaner. It is now down to half a tank. Maybe this has something to do with it? Also I used 93 oct. should I go for a lower oct gas? Maybe that has something to do with it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Stick with premium gasoline.

Your fuel system cleaner has done too good a job maybe, so now you just need to readjust the idle. Fooling with carbs according to the season is something I don't miss on more modern cars.

Just another thought, the distributor incorporates both a vacumm retard and vacuum advice (two hoses). Make sure both are connected. (You can peek through the #2 & #3 intake runners to see, might need a small mirror to actually look, can't remember)
Thanks, will do on the gas. I've put over 300 miles on her already, and it really does run well for a 30 year old car. I mean it runs really smooth, it's just idling high with the clutch out at stop signs/lights.. How do I readjust the idle? Is there a screw? If so, where is it? Some of the research I've done online says the 'screw' is 'tamper proof' and requires a special tool? Also I can't find photos showing where the screw is. I'm guessing you also have to hold the 'switch' down and the lid up to access the engine while running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Esprit888 didn't have any photos. I monkeyed with the scew on the front carb that has the hard wire leading back to the rear carb that has the braided wire leading back to the gas pedal. Somehow I don't think that was the right one..? Anyway, still 2k idle...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Having said all that its not normal for the idle speed to suddenly jump up to 2000 rpm (or was it like this originally ?) as the screw is a tight fit and if anything it will loosen which lowers the idle. Try adjusting the idle screw but I would also suggest making sure the throttle arm sits fully on it first and that it is not binding holding the throttle valves open.
Colin
someone suggested the throttle cable, but I don't think that's it. I'll recheck. It was idling fine when I got it, say somewhere between 1100 and 1500? I start it and it idles at say 1300, then slowly works up to near 1900 2000. Definitely not a 'sudden jump'. Runs fine no problems driving, but now hovering around 1900 - 2000ish.. (clutch in, clutch out, doesn't matter, just idling high) I filled the tanks and put a bottle of Redline Fuel treatment in each tank.. uh, prolly shoulda left it alone.. fuel tanks are about due for a refill... I've put over 400 miles in the last month. Want to drive as much as possible in case we get snow this year. Then I'll have to deal with 'winterizing' it I guess.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well, scooby doo, looks like the mystery is finally solved... appears that the choke cable is sticking and the choke isn't going off. Ran it with the lid up, noticed the 'choke' doesn't fully disengage, which probable explains why the rpm's 'crept' up... pb blasted it, messed with the cable, but it still doesn't completely close.. stays maybe about a quarter inch open. Pushed it all the way closed by hand (farthest forward) drove around for 30 minutes and it was fine. Idled at around 1200 the whole time. not exactly sure what the choke fix will entail...
 
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