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dude it looks like you ride in a spaceship! looks nice and cozy
 

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what is the second picture showing?


nevermind I see
 

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I just finished the removal of the blocking panels and taping up the intakes. It is already pretty hot and sticky today in DC. Took the car for a ride and the A/C blower seems to work much better. Definitely more air coming out. The cabin gets cooler as well. I will have to look into the Crystalline Windows film.
 

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Good write-up of all the cabin cooling issues, possible fixes

Nice to see a lot of info in one spot. Only one comment - you should think long and hard about using a manual valve in the engine bay to block coolant from going to the heater core. The return line provides critical cooling for the engine (to the head as I recall). This would also negate the built-in recirculation pump feature as no water could flow under any circumstance. If you want to do something manual (aka quick and dirty), you can just take both hoses off the heater core and connect them together with a pipe nipple and clamps. No danger to engine.

Again, nice write-up!
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Tony,
Thanks, I believe I cautioned that with the valve closed the recirculation pump would not be able to pump. I did, however, add an additional caution to open the valve at 190'F, thanks.
cheers,
Michael


Nice to see a lot of info in one spot. Only one comment - you should think long and hard about using a manual valve in the engine bay to block coolant from going to the heater core. The return line provides critical cooling for the engine (to the head as I recall). This would also negate the built-in recirculation pump feature as no water could flow under any circumstance. If you want to do something manual (aka quick and dirty), you can just take both hoses off the heater core and connect them together with a pipe nipple and clamps. No danger to engine.

Again, nice write-up!
Tony
 

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i live in the Philippines, a tropical country, and some of the mods here i have done and is really a big help.

i have sealed the nose air intakes primarily so that polluted air would not come in; i removed the footwell panel covering as well. if the a/c is off, like when i'm on the track, there will be hot air coming in but i just put some duct tape over it temporarily to prevent the hot air from coming in. just these two mods have done a lot to get more cold air into the cabin. lately i have installed the crystalline tint on all the windows (but the installer who has been to the middle east says he prefers V-Kool). although cold air is blown by the a/c, you could cook an egg on the dash because it's so hot when i am traveling 2 hours to and from the track hence the need for the tint -and for my arms and knees as well.

i want to insulate the side sills as well because that part gets really hot when on the track but i don't want to lose the stock carpeting and stock look of the interior. oh well, we'll see.

but many thanks to TheViper for posting these mods. BIG HELP.
 

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I have a question for anyone that has tinted the windshield, have you any issues with the Tint when wearing polarized sunglasses? All my sunglasses are ploarized and I can see the poloarization in window tint because of it so I would think that it could be an issue if I do my windshield with a clear film.

I'm in FL and the sun can bake the car in an hour. I have tint all around my mustang at the FL legal limits and nothing on the windshield and the car still can explode a can of soda from the heat. The mustang is about to be replaced by an exige and with the large windshield and small cabin I can only imagine how hot its going to get.
 

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Viper et al, How does Huper Optik "nano-ceramic" compare to the 3M product? Local tinting co doesn't carry 3M. Curious if Huper is comparabe???

Thanks,

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Phil,
The specs of both are somewhat similar with Crystalline rejecting more IR which is a major constituent of heat. I have tested the Crystalline but not the Huper.
This place sells it by mail order I think.Price for 3M Crystalline Film - Materials Only
Cheers,
Michael
Viper et al, How does Huper Optik "nano-ceramic" compare to the 3M product? Local tinting co doesn't carry 3M. Curious if Huper is comparabe???

Thanks,

Phil
 

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THanks Viper. You've been a big help with all the HVAC issues... I might take chance on the Huper product since there's an installer right down the street who wants the biz... Good to get some feedback on another pridcut too...

Then off with the front clam to fix that silly resistor pack.grrr.


Best,

Phil
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Phil, let us know how the Huper works for you. I took before and after install temps with the Crystalline and found a 30'f reduction on the dash. The remedy for the Resistor Pack, is to mount it in a different location.
Cheers,
Michael
THanks Viper. You've been a big help with all the HVAC issues... I might take chance on the Huper product since there's an installer right down the street who wants the biz... Good to get some feedback on another pridcut too...

Then off with the front clam to fix that silly resistor pack.grrr.


Best,

Phil
 

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Will do on the Huper... Tint shop says the Llumar Air Blue works really well too... also a ceramic tint like the 3M and Huper... They say the the Huper and Air Blue have less distortion than the 3M product... Of course they don't sell 3M, soooooo...... ;)

I need order that resistor pack tomorrow. I'll fix that after my track day next week I guess...

thx- pv
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Although it probably is the Resistor Pack, it would be wise to check the operation of the rest of the associated electrics first, ie. the 3 speed switch etc.
Cheers,
Michael
Will do on the Huper... Tint shop says the Llumar Air Blue works really well too... also a ceramic tint like the 3M and Huper... They say the the Huper and Air Blue have less distortion than the 3M product... Of course they don't sell 3M, soooooo...... ;)

I need order that resistor pack tomorrow. I'll fix that after my track day next week I guess...

thx- pv
 

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EVAPORATOR COIL FREEZING
An additional upgrade is the installation of an electronic thermostat to replace the capillary based unit used on earlier models. This electronic thermostat was introduced on factory build at approx. February 2007. The unit has improved temperature sensing and faster reaction time, reducing the possibility of ice formation. It was possible under extreme ambient conditions of high humidity for ice to form on the evaporator core and restrict air flow past the temperature probe creating a “domino effect” which can lead to complete icing up of the evaporator core and little or no airflow to the cabin vents. Electronic Thermostat Retrofit Kit - Lotus No. A120P0149S Parts cost $142.87
How easy is this to install? Is it strictly a dealer/professional item, or is it easily done by someone with decent mechanical skill? How much does the dealer charge for labor on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
It comes with instructions and I watched the tech install it in about an hour, that should give you an idea of the labor cost. Although it did not look too difficult, he did have to call the Lotus service rep for some clarification.
Michael
How easy is this to install? Is it strictly a dealer/professional item, or is it easily done by someone with decent mechanical skill? How much does the dealer charge for labor on this?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Revised in post #1 (highlighted in blue with photo's 6 - 9) to include simple modifications to drastically reduce the engine cooling system heat soak, which reduces vent temperatures by an impressive 9'F.
Cheers,
Michael
 
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