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Discussion Starter #81
I think that if you had access to the dash ducts then it would be an excellent idea to insulate them.
Michael
I've been thinking about The Viper's mods as the next thing I would likely do, and the last few posts have really cleared up a lot. We had an unusually hot summer in the northeast this year, and frankly, I left the top on more often than not when it was over 90, because the AC simply can't keep up, what with the huge amounts of hot air coming in over the windshield (though it is better with the windows down). So, last week, we had a cool evening finally, and I thought wow this will be great. Surprisingly, all the hot air that used to come up over the windshield seemed to have gone away, and had to put the heater on, but really did not help as much as I expected. This is just another weird aspect of my car, I guess. I agree that there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference between fan speeds, and I think that whatever gain you achieve from moving the air faster (feels cooler) is lost because the air does not have enough time to be colled before coming out of the vents. Sounds like in this area, removing the plates in the summer, and velcro-ing them back in the winter might be just the ticket. Not sure about whether blocking the ducts/unblocking the ducts should be part of that process. Last question: I expect to remove my dash at some point in the relatively near future, and wondering about whether insulating the vents would be helpful. I remember a much older post that asked about this in relation to the amount of heat on the dash when in direct sunlight. The air is only traveling a short distance there, but I'm thinking every little bit helps?
 

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Thank you, Michael. What do you think about seasonally blocking/unblocking the front ducts, too? It's only duct tape.
 

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Discussion Starter #83 (Edited)
If you get reverse airflow through the footwell vents that bothers you when you have no need of either AC or heat then I would recommend blocking them up. By doing so, remember, you will have no effective heat because no air can be drawn into the system (unless there are air leaks), unless the nose intakes are unsealed. I get no reverse airflow through my system with everything off, I imagine because the nose intakes are blocked and the climate box has no leaks.. The objective of my mods was to make the AC work more efficiently.
Michael
Thank you, Michael. What do you think about seasonally blocking/unblocking the front ducts, too? It's only duct tape.
 

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just did the footwell upgrade.......what a difference in airflow......now my AC works like it should......for AZ one of the best mods period!.........will do the heat profing next........all I can say : Viper you da man!:D:bow:
 

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Just wanted to check back in and say that I removed my footwell panels and insulated the center spline and radiator cowls over Laber Day weekend and it's incredible the difference just that makes. I haven't taken any of the other steps yet as so far those two actions have made a huge improvement in the AC situation. Good work Viper and thanks for sharing the fruits of your research with the rest of the LT community.
 

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Did you make something to act as a hot air dam or buy a replacement piece? I just fixed my resistor pack problem and was going to do the insulating thing as well but that part is also missing on my car.
According to the Manuals, the parts are:

Gutter Extension Panel, RHD A117B0703K 1
Gutter Extension Panel, LHD A117B0704K 1

The hot air dam is an integral part of the Panel.
 

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blocking radiant heat through sills>>>other options?

I've read everything about insulating the sills and other remedial
tweaks that can be done to lower the cabin air temperature.

I like the bare aluminum sills and do not want to cover them with
anything. I was thinking window tint might work instead, such as 3m crystalline.

Would the 3m tint reduce radiant heat from the sills?
I know it reduces radiant heat through glass.
If it does reduce the heat, I was planning to use it in the foot-well too.

Are their less expensive equivalents to the 3m film?
-Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #88 (Edited)
I've read everything about insulating the sills and other remedial
tweaks that can be done to lower the cabin air temperature.

I like the bare aluminum sills and do not want to cover them with
anything. I was thinking window tint might work instead, such as 3m crystalline.

Would the 3m tint reduce radiant heat from the sills?
I know it reduces radiant heat through glass.
If it does reduce the heat, I was planning to use it in the foot-well too.

Are their less expensive equivalents to the 3m film?
-Robert
When you place a solid substance on the sills, it now becomes "conductive" heat, which window film will not inhibit.
Michael
 

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In an effort to reduce cabin temps I insulated the sills and also put insulation under the carpeted area on the vertical portion of the sills. The aluminum was left exposed. This was effective without changing the look of the interior.
 

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My Elise didn't come with touring pack, meaning no carpeting on walls of sills.
How is the carpeting attached?
-Robert
 

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On the touring pack there is a trim piece of aluminum about halfway up on the sill. The carpet buts up to that and is affixed with spray adhesive. I took the carpet off put insulation behind it and glued it back on.
 

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missing spline block

I just checked and I dont have the foam piece on the spline.
Ditto, to this :( I think the body shop must have removed it when they had removed the front clam a number of years ago; no wonder my 'air' is so hot!

I suppose the entire huge gap left by the foam block's absence under the center spline will somehow need to be blocked and insulated in order for any of the other 'heat soak' remedies to cause any significant improvement in temp reduction...

Michael, do you have any suggestions? I'm mechanically somewhat incompetent and not sure where to go from here. Any ideas out there are greatly appreciated. I do have the insulation ready to go as you suggested for the cowls and duct...
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
Ditto, to this :( I think the body shop must have removed it when they had removed the front clam a number of years ago; no wonder my 'air' is so hot!

I suppose the entire huge gap left by the foam block's absence under the center spline will somehow need to be blocked and insulated in order for any of the other 'heat soak' remedies to cause any significant improvement in temp reduction...

Michael, do you have any suggestions? I'm mechanically somewhat incompetent and not sure where to go from here. Any ideas out there are greatly appreciated. I do have the insulation ready to go as you suggested for the cowls and duct...
Follow the instructions in "Heat Soak" "1" Improved AC, it does not matter that there is no existing foam block to place it over. Cut a paper patten to get the shape, and then cut a piece of self adhesive insulation, an inch bigger all round. Bend the inch overlap at 90' so that it will stick to the underside of the clam and base to seal the spline all the way around. You can use multiple layers if you wish. This mod is one of the most important to reduce AC temperatures.
Michael
 

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Thank you, Michael, that makes perfect sense. I don't have to 'wrap' anything with the insulation, there's enough stiffness in the stuff for it to actually be the block itself. I will do that after today's autocross, and then to #2, and possibly #3. I can't wait to see the result!!
 

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Just checked the result of the 'Heat Soak' mods, #s 1,2, and 3 on my '05, and I can happily say there's an obvious improvement in temperature :D, i.e., no apparent change after engine warm-up like before; and today was hot in Atlanta!

Thanks, again, Michael.

Next, I'll drill out the footwell vents covers, and probably tape the nose vents. The latter I'm still a little reluctant to do, because I like flow-through ventilation, but I guess the Elise doesn't really have that capability passively; gotta just pop off the top, and roll down the windows!! ;)
 

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I had taped off both off my inlets but removed the tape from one of them after a couple of days. At the time, it wasn't hot enough to run the AC all the time and I started having fogging issues. For now, the recirc button seems enough but I might tape that inlet again come August...
 

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What a terrific thread. I've just purchased my Elise and spent only a week with it before I had to leave it in Dallas to return to the Middle East where I work....hard to leave it. My brother-in-law is looking after it for me.

The temps in Dallas were about 105 F ambient, and the Elise could not really keep up, so I can't wait to get back to perform Viper's mods. This is quite simply the most useful item I have found on the board thus far. Thanks, Michael!!!!:clap:

I do have one request...Viper, is it possible to get a link whereby I can actually print out your instructions? Having a hard copy there while working would be helpful.

The observation is as follows:

I spoke to the Lotus dealer here in Saudi Arabia and in Bahrain, both of which told me that Norwich has designed a Middle East spec car for these (hot) markets (it's about 118 F and 96% humidity here as I write)....I believe it is actually a different evaporator and compressor, and maybe a fan assembly. Anyway, I am going to find the part numbers. If these are in any way of higher capacity, then I would think they might be useful options if anyone wanted to pursue this after doing Viper's modifications, which are much cheaper and frankly, neater as well.

Thanks again, Viper!!!

Stephen
 
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