Increase tire pressure for track?

There's a ton of discussion on this. But I really want to know how your pressures work out.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f91/r888s-best-value-tires-67158/

I pretty much run similar pressures - 25 F , 28 R Hot.
I used to run really low pressures - 22 and 25 hot because I thought that I felt better grip rolling on the sidewalls, but this was a waste. When my tires were done the centers still had tread....so I'd stick with what you're doing.
Some guys that like more of a looser feel do run higher pressures though.

There's been a lot of discussion about R888 tire pressures... but it seems that it's very much related to load (car weight). Lighter cars should run lower pressures... I've had better results with pressures similar to plastique999's

i like a stiffer sidewall.... i run about 31-33 hot range, pretty close to 26-28 cold. i like the feedback, the times i have run lower hot pressures, the car felt a little soggy and sidewalls rolling over too much. i have a stiffer set up now - and so i might have a different opinion once i get the nitrons on the track.

28-30 'ish range is about as low as i go hot. some of that is preference too.

So the higher recommended pressures are based on 3000lb+ cars?
I've sat in an HPDE class where it was recommended to raise pressures above street. Seemed curious to me as track use was going to heat them up and raise pressure even more. Is there a rational for this, on any weight car?

BRTHTAKR said:

So the higher recommended pressures are based on 3000lb+ cars?
I've sat in an HPDE class where it was recommended to raise pressures above street. Seemed curious to me as track use was going to heat them up and raise pressure even more. Is there a rational for this, on any weight car?

Click to expand...

This might be a little simplistic... but consider that the tire engineers optimized the compound, construction, and tread profile for a certain size/area contact patch... since the area of the contact patch is a function of weight divided by tire pressure, it makes sense that lighter cars should run proportionally lower tire pressures to get the same contact patch area.

It's too bad they don't make the RE070 in the correct sizes for the car, as then you could have your cake and eat it too...super low pressures for a larger contact patch, and super stiff sidewall for great turn-in/feel.

My feeling with this is I would go with what you have used in the past that felt good to you, and adjust accordingly to your pyrometer readings.
do have a probe type pyrometer? if not, purchasing one is a good investment.
tire PSI can/will vary per track, driving style, car set up, track temperature, etc........, so you really should learn to have the confidence in your own intuition, and rely on the right tools to dial in your car.
if you dont know how to work a pyrometer and adjust according to the readings it gives, PM me and i will be glad to help you.

Spend $150 on a good pyrometer. Adjust your pressures and camber until your temperature readings are appropriate. This is a much better method than listening to a bunch of yahoos on this site. Remember that track surface and outside temperatures can have a significant impact on required tire pressure. Even if you are running the exact same camber and pressure as another member (that tested his camber/pressure to be appropriate), the track surface/outside temperature variables could make the other member's recommendations false for you.

After one run, even temps, not a lot of rolloverwith hot temps 29/31.4