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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, hoping someone can shed some light on an innovative rear motor mount install (BOE rear mount).

I am replacing the stock rear motor mount with the new one and ran into a few hiccups.

Issues:
1. The new mount is much wider than the OE mount. I had to slightly bend the tabs on the transmission bracket in order to slide the new mount in it so it would clear the center metal bolt hole which looks like someone had already taken a grinder to it to make smaller but failed to make it small enough. Now it clears but its basically impossible to move the mount around inside the bracket when on the car. Is that normal? I expected the added material to be tight but did not expect the bolt hole to be a intrusive as it is.

2. The new mount's material is bulging out of the housing. Is that cause for concern or no big deal?



3. I have an RTD2 brace from Inokinetic and the base plate for the new mount is a bit thicker. What do people with similar setups use to replace the bolt spacers that go between the RTD brace and the mount? It looks like they need to be about half the size. These are the washer I am referring to: http://111hq.com/inserts/rear/P1250540.JPG

4. The new mount does not line up with the bolt holes when set in place. If I line up the 4 bolt holes on the chassis, the large 17mm bolt that goes through the mount and the transmission bracket dont line up (hole is too far rear) and vice versa. Should I open up the hole more on the bracket so it can sit further back?

I have to say I am pretty disappointed with this mount. I spent hours trying to get it to fit and ended up throwing the OE mount back in the car. I'm really hoping its just an install sequence I am missing or something. I also emailed BOE but Im guessing they'll take a few days to get back to me because of the holiday weekend, which reminds me - happy 4th everyone!
 

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I think I am not going to be the only one to say "yes, I have butchered those mounts too"...

I cut some of the excess material and the internal metal spacer with an oscillating saw. I also ended up using a dremel with a tungsten router bit to elongate the holes in the mount itself. Keep in mind that the bolts into the subframe are quite low in torque compared to the nuts and bolts which I guess are doing most of the work.

It is not great to bend that bracket but you have likely not fatigued it yet. It is not super-expensive if you want a new one (I overworked mine).

I think I bent the ears on the RTD brace. The Lotus track-pack bar does not have a center-anchor BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think I am not going to be the only one to say "yes, I have butchered those mounts too"...

I cut some of the excess material and the internal metal spacer with an oscillating saw. I also ended up using a dremel with a tungsten router bit to elongate the holes in the mount itself. Keep in mind that the bolts into the subframe are quite low in torque compared to the nuts and bolts which I guess are doing most of the work.

It is not great to bend that bracket but you have likely not fatigued it yet. It is not super-expensive if you want a new one (I overworked mine).

I think I bent the ears on the RTD brace. The Lotus track-pack bar does not have a center-anchor BTW.
That makes sense to me. I think If I grind out the bracket holes more I can get it to fit, although still not nearly as nice as the OE mount. I actually tried to bend the tabs on the RTD brace but they wouldnt budge and felt like theyd break before they would bend so I stopped messing with them and figured I'd just stop at a hardware store and look for smaller spacers. If fiddling with the mount to get it to fit is normal my only real concern is the mount material bulging from the sides. Was yours like that as well?

Thanks for reassurance though, I will give it another go next time the weather forecast is looking wet.
 

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That makes sense to me. I think If I grind out the bracket holes more I can get it to fit, although still not nearly as nice as the OE mount. I actually tried to bend the tabs on the RTD brace but they wouldnt budge and felt like theyd break before they would bend so I stopped messing with them and figured I'd just stop at a hardware store and look for smaller spacers. If fiddling with the mount to get it to fit is normal my only real concern is the mount material bulging from the sides. Was yours like that as well?

Thanks for reassurance though, I will give it another go next time the weather forecast is looking wet.
Honestly, doing it again, I would cut the center-mount bit off the RTD brace. I think it is close-to-useless and an annoyance. You could also do without the bolts that go in the subframe and rely on the nut-and-bolt pair to retain the engine mount.

I have tracked this car for 12 years now (I have the OEM straight-bar between the rear toe-link anchors). I find I need to replace roughly every two years the suspension hardware (nuts and bolts, janky wishbones, toe links, etc).
 
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