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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am finishing up the install of the Inokinetic Ultimate shift package, which includes the Short shift linkage. While, for the most part, the directions/video provided by Inkinetic is accurate and helpful, I found the short shift linkage somewhat perplexing. This post describes in detail how to install that linkage.

The inokinetic install video is shot with the transmission sitting on a bench. This makes certain aspects of the install clear, but leaves some details, like how you can actually make this happen in situ, murky. With the transmission remaining on the vehicle, I could only, through trial and error, decipher one sequence that would get the unit in place. Once I discovered it, the installation was a breeze (note, I took my rear clam off).

Note, the images in this post are screecaps from the install video for clarity, so it's not totally step-wise accurate. For example, all the parts are in place in the picture. Pay attention to the arrows, not the actual part.

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These directions assume you removed your belly pan and decoupled the throttle body from the airbox (the video has a good description of this step). Now, onto removing the old throw linkage!

Removing the old linkage:

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you will be removing the two cables (shift/crossgate) from the arms then unbolting the linkage via two bolts into the transmission from the top of the car.

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then, crawling under your car, you can then move the linkage around in a way so you can unbolt the Shift Bellcrank Lever from the Inertia weight. It's difficult if not impossible to get a socket wrench onto this bolt until the linkage assembly is unbolted from the transmission. After you unbolt it, the whole assembly can be removed, and you are now ready to install the new one.

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Installing the short shift linkage:

From topside, lightly place the new linkage down on the gearbox roughly the way it should be when installed. Insert the bolt from the inertia weight down into the linkage bellcrank lever. Now, from below the car, you should be able to move the linkage around so you can get your ratchet on it with a long extender. Bolt it on tight.

From above, loosely finger tighten the fore (towards the cabin) bolt that affixes the linkage to transmission, just enough to keep it in place on the tranny, but tight enough so it won't unscrew and the bolt does not interfere with the arms moving around. DO NOT TIGHTEN. We need play on the linkage for the next step. DO NOT INSTALL THE SECOND (AFT) BOLT YET.

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From below, put the male, greased plug into the inertia weight bottom so that it will be able to slide. The slop from not tightening the bolt down allows for this to happen.

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From the top, bolt down the aft linkage bolt to the transmission to final tightness.

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Yes, the fore bolt is still just finger tight. At this point, you might notice that the fore bolt is partially covered by the bellcrank lever--there's no way for you to get it tight! This has to do with what gear you are in when you pulled the old linkage off. We can fix this later. If you happen to be in a gear where you can tighten down the fore bolt, go ahead and do so, you are done installing the short shifter! Else, continue...

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If you can't tighten down the fore bolt:

Do your cable install onto the new linkage, then install onto your shifter lever in the cabin to the point where you can row through your gears. At some point when things are roughed in, shift into a gear and then look back at the linkage to see if the fore bolt has been exposed to the point where you can actually torque it down, if not, shift to the next gear and look again. At some point, it will get exposed to the point where you can torque it down.

Make sure you get both bolts tight before buttoning it all up!
 

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This is awesome additional and “real garage mechanic” appropriate.

How do you like the upgrade and do you think it’s worth it, would you recommend doing it!

Do you think your method can be still done with the clam on??

Thinking recently myself that his would be a nice upgrade, and have looked at IK’s video.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually haven't driven the car since installing the short shift as I'm awaiting parts & have no idea when I'll get them due to the pandemic :-(... initial shifting with the car parked is much improved, but we will see how it does when driving.

Like most engine-related work on the car, the short-shift is likely do-able with the clam on, but one hell of a lot easier with it off. As this was the first time I've taken the clam off, I decided to put the BOE hinge on, which I just finished. That's a nice piece of kit and, IMO, worth it if you plan on doing non-trival work on the engine yourself.
 
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