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Discussion Starter #1
Installed the sway bar over the weekend. Took way longer than it should have but I feel accomplished! Few notes. WD40 those damn screws, if you're about to install you'll know what I mean. They are rusted! I tried to rivet back the 3 holes for the bracket but didn't work out. I ended up using nuts and bolts.

I probably have to go to an autoX event to fully see the difference. The new sway bar definitely feels more solid than oem. I currently have it on the 2nd setting.
 

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Any thoughts on the new sway bar? Cannot believe how light and unassuming the stock one is! Likely my next upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just from street driving, the front does feel lighter. But yea, the stock one felt like plastic.
 

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So, I see that you did exceptional work with limited access to professional facilities. Nice work.
How did you adjust pre-load out of the bar?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I definitely need a garage but till then I'll have to make due. The instructions said to roll the car back and forth and tighten up the last bolt while you have someone sitting down.
 

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You even did it with body weight! Nice.
Let us know how it works.
I have one in the corner of my garage that has been sitting there for awhile now. I haven't installed it yet because I was waiting until I wanted a tighter front end - probably on track - and still haven't gotten it there yet. I slipped the front end a few times under surface transitions on the street and figured the softer bar probably helped.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mine came with adjustable links as well. I was uncertain if the links should be adjusted or not? I ended up screwing all the way to the end of the link.
 

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Because a sway bar is basically meant to jack weight from one side of the car to another, my ideal way to adjust it properly (haven't done it on THIS car yet) would be as follows:

Drive the car until the fluid in the shocks have gotten some use so the fluid has at least some chance to warm;
If a bolt hasn't been previously removed from the end of ONE rod end, remove one bolt and loosen the lock nuts on ends of the rod ends on the other rod;
Place car on a level surface with about half a usable tank of fuel, fluids topped off and other normal weight is in (ie driver weight);
Roll car back and forth and "bounce" car slightly in the middle to help everything settle;
Adjust connected link to get sway bar at proper angle (so it can move freely under load, probably level) and there are at least 5? threads of each rod end into each link;
Adjust link with one bolt missing from one rod end until the missing bolt can easily be inserted;
Insert and secure bolt and tighten the lock nuts against the link ends,
After this, unless the rod ends are new and the balls really tight, you should be able to grab the rod between them and easily move it. It will almost feel "sloppy";
Remove sand bag/ dead weight/ girlfriend from drivers seat;
Drive it like the bank owns all of it.

Some time in the future, with about the same amount of fuel, driver weight, fluid levels, parked on the same level surface, etc. try to wiggle one of the sway bar connecting rods. It might be a little firm, but it shouldn't feel like there is a lot of load on it.
 

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I have scales so I was taught to unhook the sway bar and have the car ballasted and rock the car back and forth to get the suspension to settle and hook one end up. (having the links travel pretty well set in the middle) Then attach the other side and adjust until the scale weight is back to zero. if you have fully adjusted one side, loosen it and adjust the other side so that the lengths are not at a extreme end of link.

Yes, then drive the crap out of it while smiling like a maniac
 

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I had a BWR swaybar on my car but it always wanted to understeer on the track. Even with lots of negative camber, 1.5 front 2.6 rear. I removed the bar and put back the original and it transformed the handling. So even with my 425/550 springs and Nitrons it was too stiff. So just be careful that you don't make the handling worse and not better with this mod.
 

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Im happy with mine, had it for years. I have it on the loosest setting. Did you pull the shims out in the front?
I would get coil overs next then have it corner balanced.
 

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>I would get coil overs next then have it corner balanced.

All Elise cars have coilover suspension. ;)

I agree that adjustable spring perches are handy. Be sure to do the corner balancing with the sway bar disconnected, then connect the sway bar and set it to neutral when the car is at rest when car is loaded as-driven.

>Adjust link with one bolt missing from one rod end until the missing bolt can easily be inserted;
Insert and secure bolt and tighten the lock nuts against the link ends,

After the mounting bolts are tight, you can check that the bar is doing zero at rest by turning an adjustable link back and forth to get it to the center of the loose feel.

I have my Elise on stock LCC springs/shocks. BWR sway set hard. Really nails down the inside rear, and I can still bring out the tail with a lift in second gear. With the stock bar, I got wheelspin on autocross corner exits.
 

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Adjustable obviously lol. I figured he would figure it out lol. Less digits for me to type from phone lol
 

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I had a BWR swaybar on my car but it always wanted to understeer on the track. Even with lots of negative camber, 1.5 front 2.6 rear. I removed the bar and put back the original and it transformed the handling. So even with my 425/550 springs and Nitrons it was too stiff. So just be careful that you don't make the handling worse and not better with this mod.
Richard,

That makes sense since you guys are driving upside down ;)

Just teasing

Dazza
 

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Richard,

That makes sense since you guys are driving upside down ;)

Just teasing

Dazza
That did make me laugh !!!
Cheers.
 
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