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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got around to installing my Innovate Motorsports wideband 02 LC-1 and XD16 gauge to read my AFR's. Installation was a PITA but the end result looks pretty good. I mounted the gauge in the left AC vent above the headlight switches.

I did the installation to keep an eye on things since I am using a smaller 3.2 pulley with Katana kit. After a quick spin today it seems things are perfect even withe the smaller pulley. During WOT runs over 6k, I am showing in the low to mid 12's for AFR right up to redline. One thing I also notice was the AFR dip when the cams switch. Even with at WOT, when the cam change occurs I see the AFR jump to well into the 14's for a quick instant. You can even feel the brief loss in power. Now I have to get the car on the dyno to really see what I am making for power, since I am now convinced my AFR's are decent.

Sorry about the blurry pictures... not sure what is wrong with my crappy camera!





 

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I'm in the process of installing a Zeitronix wideband. Did you have to add a bung of the 2nd O2 sensor? Or you just used the stock locale? Does the Larini sport cat throw any CEL's?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did have to add the bung to the exhaust. A local fabricator/welding shop did it for me for $85.00. They did it right on the car, not even on a lift. Wiring was a royal pain. I was not familiar at all with getting wiring from the engine bay to the dash. I ended up running the wire inside the drivers side body sill along with some other factory wiring. The wires then came up right in the area of the headlight switches.

Oh... and the Larini Sport cat has never thrown any codes. I've had it for a year and a half.
 

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If the sensor gets wet, it's toast. Innovate Motorsports sells just the sensor & cable for $80, but it is a VW part (VW P/N 021-906-262-B) that sells for $60.

Great product, though! I have the LC-1 and XD-16 gauge.

Warning about the CAL wire and button: I had random recalibrations, probably because of a ground problem. It was definitely wired correctly. I removed the CAL wire and button and recommend calibrating it using the "First time calibration" procedure outlined in their installation manual. This does a Free Air Calibration and a Heater Calibration. You don't need to connect the wire, button, and LED, in other words, and it avoids the possibility of spontaneous recalibrations, which will make the AFR display go to max rich, max lean, or alternate between the two extremes.

Warning about the analog outputs: If either are connected to ground, even briefly, it will most likely fry the D to A converter. Make sure those are taped up good.

Programmer Software: Make sure you don't have any virtual serial ports if you run their Programmer software because it can "hang" the program, making it necessary to kill it with Task Manager (close box doesn't do it). If the LC-1 starts acting very strange, verify it is set to "gasoline" using Programmer.

Terminator: Make sure the terminator plug is pushed in all the way. If it comes loose, while the LC-1 and XD-16 are communicating (XD-16 reads the LC-1 output messages) the LC-1 can lose its programming.

Data logging: You can daisy chain off the XD-16 using a second serial cable with a small stereo plug on one side and DB-9 (for the PC) on the other side. This way you can use the gauge and data log at the same time.
 

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Hey nice job...I installed mine in the same location and its been a perfect spot, no complaints...



I still have not been able to program the LEDs on the gauge, but everything else works fine. Also, I dont recommend that you upgrade the firmware to the latest version of the LC-1 unless they have worked out the bugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Matt did you use any of the bracketry to hold the gauge in or just press fit? I pressed fit mine and it is held strong in there. Just wondering what you did.
 

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Matt did you use any of the bracketry to hold the gauge in or just press fit? I pressed fit mine and it is held strong in there. Just wondering what you did.
Actually I just used some gorilla glue....worked fine and so far so good, I've had it installed for quite some time with no problems other than quirky innovate software. Did you get your LEDs to program?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Program how? They work.. I think? as the AFR changes the LED's arond the outside circle the gauge in a clock type formation indicating the mixture. Is that what you mean?
 

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Program how? They work.. I think? as the AFR changes the LED's arond the outside circle the gauge in a clock type formation indicating the mixture. Is that what you mean?
Yes....but the AFR range and color can be programmed....

Just hook up your laptop to the xd-16 and go into LMprogrammer then click on input. You can also click on colors to change the way the colors fade as the mixture changes.

As for me, my LED's dont circle the gauge, because they are programed for 7 AFR, so always only 1 LED on the bottom left is lit. Everytime I click on the input tab in LMprogrammer, the software crashes and I cant adjust the LED range...so I was wondering if you have had that problem as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm almost afraid to go in and change the programming at all. It works perfectly. I don't want to screw it up!
 

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It's Alive: Is there a block-off plate in back of the vent after its removed or does the gauge simply act like an air block itself?
 

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I'm curious about some of these mods, in particular the rationale. Correct me if I am wrong, but stuff like this, as well as IAT gauges for instance, are only useful as diagnostic tools - you wouldn't normally refer to this gauge with any regularity. One of the nice things about the Lotus interior, IMHO, is that is only provides you with the information you need and nothing more.

So my question is: why add such gauges if they are only infrequently used (primarily for diagnostics) when you could just hook up a diagnostic monitor to the OBD-II port?
 
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