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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After seeing several posts about gauge installations and seeing the cool pics of some nifty gauges, I decided to install both an oil pressure and an oil temp gauge in my 2006 Elise last weekend. Due mainly to the fact that I seem to get different measurements each time I pull the oil dipstick, I am paranoid about my oil pressure. Since I don't track my car, I'll admit this is irrational. I figured that if I was going to go through the trouble of installing a pressure gauge, I might as well install a temp gauge as well.

Being a mechanical novice, I went the easy (and probably less than ideal route) and bought an oil filter sandwich adapter from GlowShift. I liked the Ultra-Lite gauges from AutoMeter and both the sandwich plate and the gauges had 1/8 NPT (unlike the Greddy adapter, which I have heard is not NPT).

Installing the sandwich plate was relatively simple. Just screw off the oil filter and place the sandwich plate over the existing oil cooler plate and tighten. No leaks yet.

The gauges were a b*tch as far as running the wires from the senders to the BWR gauge bracket in the front. Ended up removing the seats, seatbelts, rear speakers, carpeting, sound insulation and center console (partially). I enlarged a hole in an existing grommet in the rear bulkhead and used split tubing and plastic ties to run the wires from the engine compartment and under the center console.

I powered the gauges using a fuse tap from Bussman that I picked up from Advance Auto. Tapped into the 20A fuse for the A/C compressor under the passenger side dash. The A/C still works fine, although I can count on one hand how many times I've used it in 2 years.

Both gauges have peak recall and warning lights. I set the temp warning light at 180F to signal when its "safe" to hit the 2nd cam.

With shipping, I spent about $400 on the gauges, $25 on the adapter plate, about $20 on odds and ends (solder, friction tape, fuse tap, etc). It took about 16 hours. It would probably take less than that for someone with more experience and with a helper.

I'll post pics later once I clean up some of the wiring and wipe all of my sweat and blood off the seats and dash.
 

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After seeing several posts about gauge installations and seeing the cool pics of some nifty gauges, I decided to install both an oil pressure and an oil temp gauge in my 2006 Elise last weekend. Due mainly to the fact that I seem to get different measurements each time I pull the oil dipstick, I am paranoid about my oil pressure. Since I don't track my car, I'll admit this is irrational. I figured that if I was going to go through the trouble of installing a pressure gauge, I might as well install a temp gauge as well.

Being a mechanical novice, I went the easy (and probably less than ideal route) and bought an oil filter sandwich adapter from GlowShift. I liked the Ultra-Lite gauges from AutoMeter and both the sandwich plate and the gauges had 1/8 NPT (unlike the Greddy adapter, which I have heard is not NPT).

Installing the sandwich plate was relatively simple. Just screw off the oil filter and place the sandwich plate over the existing oil cooler plate and tighten. No leaks yet.

The gauges were a b*tch as far as running the wires from the senders to the BWR gauge bracket in the front. Ended up removing the seats, seatbelts, rear speakers, carpeting, sound insulation and center console (partially). I enlarged a hole in an existing grommet in the rear bulkhead and used split tubing and plastic ties to run the wires from the engine compartment and under the center console.

I powered the gauges using a fuse tap from Bussman that I picked up from Advance Auto. Tapped into the 20A fuse for the A/C compressor under the passenger side dash. The A/C still works fine, although I can count on one hand how many times I've used it in 2 years.

Both gauges have peak recall and warning lights. I set the temp warning light at 180F to signal when its "safe" to hit the 2nd cam.

With shipping, I spent about $400 on the gauges, $25 on the adapter plate, about $20 on odds and ends (solder, friction tape, fuse tap, etc). It took about 16 hours. It would probably take less than that for someone with more experience and with a helper.

I'll post pics later once I clean up some of the wiring and wipe all of my sweat and blood off the seats and dash.
Can you post pictures? I am looking at installing gauges and just want an idea where lotus owners put them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can you post pictures?
I'll snap some pics over the weekend and post them. I got tied up this last week replacing my central door lock module under the dash, which is a whole other story.

In the meantime, if you go to Blackwatch Racing's website, you can see a picture of the center bracket they make with either two or three holes for gauges. The bracket is well done and looks OEM. It was the only real option for me asthetics-wise.
 

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Did you happen to read this thread? http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/glowshift-oil-filter-adapter-33969/

Also, some of the tap-a-fuse are limited to 10A total. I have one from Bussman that is 10A total limited (as in both the original fuse + the new accessory fuse) and several from Bussman that are 10A accessory limited (as in doesn't matter what the original fuse is). You may want to check yours to see that it is the latter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I actually read that thread several times and could never figure out why the OP was saying not to use the GlowShift adapter plate. In one post, he says:

"DO NOT BUY THIS ADAPTER UNTIL I'M ABLE TO TEST IT FOR FIT. After measuring it, I think that the center fitting might not be long enough to catch the threads on the fitting of the existing cooler sandwich. The fitting on the Greddy extends 3/16" more."

A couple weeks later, the OP said:

"I haven't gotten a chance to try the Glowshift adapter. But I have another one that I know will fit. . . ."

It appears as though the OP never even tried to fit the Glowshift adapter and used another adapter instead.

I did not have any problem with the center fitting being too short or not catching the threads on the existing cooler plate. It screwed on securely and snuggly. Still no leaks after several weeks.

Thanks for the info on the fuse taps. I've never used them before and was curious about how much load they could handle. I don't recall there being any limitation on the packaging. To be safe, I will probably move it over to one of the lower amp fuses.
 

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The A/C still works fine, although I can count on one hand how many times I've used it in 2 years.
In southeast Georgia??? :crazyeyes You got salamander in your blood?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In southeast Georgia??? :crazyeyes You got salamander in your blood?
Am I the only one who would rather sweat (profusely at times) than turn on the A/C and sap noticeable power from the engine? :shift:

Of course, the older and fatter I get, the more tempting it is to hit the A/C button.
 

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The Glowshift works just fine -- no issues.

(No, I am not associated with Glowshift. Anecdotal… passing on incorrect information...yikes...)
+1

I'm using them as well. Having an issue with the oil pressure gauge (my oil temp is fine) but I think that's wiring related. The sandwich plate is fine, no leaks. You do however, need to request a longer extender (the part that the oil filter screws into). I requested a "3/4-16 thread" one and it works perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is a pic of the gauges in my '06. Still not completely done cleaning up the wiring. Sorry about the huge picture. Haven't figured out how to shrink it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here are pics of Glowshift adapter with senders installed. Also are pics of routing I took for the wiring from the sender to the rear firewall (the red split tubing is mine).

Still sorry about the huge pics. Thought I had shrunk them enough.
 

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What Glowshift sandwich plate is everyone using. I too have been reading several threads and could not find the exact model.

Also, anyone use their gauges? Are they any good? I know DEFI is the best, but just curious.

Thanks!
 
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