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My Instrument Cluster started acting up the other day. It will work perfectly fine then the tach, speedo, fuel gauge, and temp won't work. It still illuminates and the dummy lights still work (seat belt, e-brake lights). If I tap the front of the cluster they will work until I go over a bump. It will continue to do this during a drive.

Seems like a loose wire in the back. I've searched the forum and can't find any good instructions on how to take it out and check the connections. I'm mechanically inclinded but always like something to go by so nothing gets broken in the process. Anyone have some good instructions.

By the way my car is a 2005 Elise.
 

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My Instrument Cluster started acting up the other day. It will work perfectly fine then the tach, speedo, fuel gauge, and temp won't work. It still illuminates and the dummy lights still work (seat belt, e-brake lights). If I tap the front of the cluster they will work until I go over a bump. It will continue to do this during a drive.

Seems like a loose wire in the back. I've searched the forum and can't find any good instructions on how to take it out and check the connections. I'm mechanically inclinded but always like something to go by so nothing gets broken in the process. Anyone have some good instructions.

By the way my car is a 2005 Elise.
Try just disconnecting the battery.
Michael
 

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I had this problem with my 05. I put up with it for about 4 months. I like to let a bunch of issues pile up before I go to the hassle of taking it to the shop.

they said a new pod was about 1000 dollars. When they go bad, they replace the whole thing, they won't tinker with it. They also said that the 05' had a pod failure rate of about 10 percent right off the boat and that I was lucky the pod had lasted 6 years.

Anyway...the pod repaired itself. When they got around to looking at it, it was working fine. Maybe they had disconnected the battery to do other work, like 'TheViper' suggested. I've had no more trouble with it.
 

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Possibly, not generally known, is that beyond the factory 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, is the "Emissions" warranty.
If you are fortunate enough to have your car registered in either California, New Jersey, Connecticut, Oregon, Washington, Rhode Island, New York, Maine, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, New Mexico, Florida or Colorado, there is a CARB, 7 year/70,000mile warranty on;
Catalytic Converter, heat shields, gaskets & fasteners
ECM
Throttle Body
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Tank
Fuel Level Sender & Seal
IAC Valve
Knock Sensor
Intake Manifold & Gasket
Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve
Fuel Level Vent Valve
Roll Over Valve
Instrument Pack
Main Harness

If your car is registered in other States, there is an Federal 8year/80,000mile warranty on only the;
Catalytic Converter, heat shields. gaskets & fasteners
ECM

Cheers,
Michael
 

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Mine was one of the early failures, what I found was cracking in the solder joints for the pins that the connector plugs into. This is a pretty common failure with through the board pins, I see this all the time in pinball PCBs where there is vibration and the pins supporting the connector, just like in our cluster.

My fix was to disassemble the cluster and reflow the solder with some extra. I bet allot of people paid $$ to replace perfectly good clusters that just needed a simple repair.
 

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I'm going to post this in two threads, but here has been my experience with my instrument cluster. I'll tell you the results first, which is kind of a summary of all the previous advice.

I've had intermittent speedo/tach/gas going to 0. Disconnecting the 3 wire plug shows the same problem. The lots of wire plug has the power and all of the notification lights. I believe the 3 wires are the canbus connection. When you turn the car on it will attempt recheck the connectivity (I don't believe disconnecting the battery is required or additionally helpful). Power surges from the AC or HID headlights can cause it to reset and recheck the connectivity as well.

The fix is to check/improve all of the points along the canbus connection. My connectors were not loose. So, I decided to attempt to get a better connection within the 3 pin connector. I was able to take apart the 3 cable connector and bend the internal contact to intrude further into the pin. I'm not sure if this has fixed the problem, because it is intermittent, but I didn't make it worse. :) I'll report back later if it doesn't work. I have some pictures of taking apart the connector, but I haven't copied them to my computer yet. I can share them if requested.

How I determined the above:
My cluster would stop working seemingly randomly. Sometimes it would fail when I turned it on, and sometimes it would be while driving. I successfully used turning on my AC to get it to start working again. That worked for a while, but wasn't perfect. (I never tried turning on my HID's to see if that could cause the reset as well.)

Taking off the instrument cluster's main difficulties involve making sure you find all 6 screws on the bottom shroud, and having confidence in pulling out the upper shroud. Once out, there are just a few more screws to get at, and it comes out easily enough.

I tried all 3 ways of connecting the connectors. Connecting just the 3 wire does nothing. Connecting just the lots of wires connector allows it to turn on and display the error lights, but does not show any speed/tach/gas. Connecting both works like normal.

If your display has gone from not updating to updating, the easiest way to get it to get the gas to update is to turn off and on the key. When it first starts, it reads the gas level, then it smooths the value from there. So, if you are showing 0, it will take a long time to smooth it up to the actual value.

The turning off/on the HID/AC will only 'fix' the problem if the connectivity has been restored. Because it is an intermittent problem, it may take some jostling to reconnect.

Also, as brokenboy said above, if your needles are not settling to 0, there is a way to reset the needles in the manual.
 

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Your link doesn´t work anymore...

Can you help on that?



Thank you.



Flavio

Disconnect the cluster, check all the connections and reconnect. Usually the cable is loose. It is easy to take the cluster apart and check the internal connections.
 
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