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Discussion Starter #1
I just love the Alunox manifolds but by the time one is shipped to the US its ~$2k.

I emailed a few US based custom header shops and inquired if they could do one.

I heard back from one shop that has a great web site full of pictures of beautiful headers.

I sent them pictures of a stock manifold and the the above mentioned aftermarket beauty.

We discussed the project and he thinks they could do the first one for about $1100, and ~ $800 after that.

They need a stock header as a template for best results and some other chassis measurements that I am happy to do.

The first header would have to be installed and test run prior to the other 4 being made.

I was thinking of bank rolling the whole thing if there is interest just to keep it simple.

I know this has been tried before but I thought I would test the waters.

I would estimate the earliest you could see a manifold in your mail box would be after the first of the year.

Also, anybody have a stock cracked manifold we can use for a template? That would keep from my car being down so long.

I am sure this question will come up - I dont know anything about manifolds for the earlier cars, I am sure they could do a header but they will need an old manifold to set the head flange and the turbo flange locations. The price would be at least the higher of the two noted above, probably more due to the waste gate piping.

I did not ask what grade of stainless they would use, but the headers on their web site look just like other fancy headers. I was going to discuss this with them at a later time. They seem knowledgeable and interested in doing quality work.

My e-mail is in my sig below if you would like more details or a link to the web site.
 

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Having made one from scratch, I'll tell you that it is a biatch. You really need a car in the air to test fit it to at each stage of the build. A quarter inch off and it won't fit or you won't be able to get a wrench on the nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks Nice!

Yeah I wondered about the access.

Might have to figure on a trial fit
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Chapman approved - lighter, better flow, faster spool! And a bit more power. I am going to do a before and after dyno.
 

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I was looking at my engine the other night thinking about replacing the gas tanks and what all else I should do if I pull the engine out. I looked at the manifold thinking of how expensive it would be to replace with the Alunox one. Shaking my head, I decided to put off the thought for later. But this thread has me thinking of maybe moving forward. I've never pulled my engine or exhaust manifold before (or on any vehicle) and the task seems daunting, but I'm in no hurry to get the car back on the road at the moment. I have all of the tools needed for the task (engine hoist, wrenches, jackhammer, swear jar). Yet I'm unsure if I'm up to the undertaking of removing the engine & transmission to get to the manifold off for this project's template or not. Maybe if I start now, I'll have it back together before LOG 39 in Utah next year.

I think Dr. Hess is correct in needing the car and engine to test the fitment before going into full production. #Erik L I doubt your contact is in Colorado, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They are in Minnesota. Interesting thought, I wonder if there is a Lotus in the area that would go by the shop?

They have a method for figuring out the space issue. Access to the bolts is going to be similar to stock manifold. Also I have to build a rough wire frame of the area between the motor and the frame rails, side of engine bay etc. using coat hanger wire. The wire frame gives them the area they have to work with. Finally they will send me the proto, if it does not fit they will tweak the design.
 

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I wonder if you can get the cavity dimensions of the area using a garbage bag and fill it with some Great Stuff foam. Then carefully cutout the foam in pieces & reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brilliant

I was thinking of something similar but that is great with the garbage bag.
 

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Jim,
You don't need to pull the motor to get the manifold out. Also, some people have R&R'ed the gas tanks with the motor in place, but having done it with the motor out, I'll just say they are better than I am.
Tom M. in Tampa was having some manifolds fabricated in stainless. Very close to my design. I think he went swoopy on the back part going to the turbo flange, where mine is straight back for strength.
After I fab'ed mine, I asked the shop I had TIG it how much to duplicate it, with them doing all the work. I forget the number now, but in the thousand range, give or take. I offered it to the yahoo list and no one cared.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I offered it to the yahoo list and no one cared.
I saw those posts - I was hoping there would be more interest now. But barely more than no one.

Maybe 3 of us!

Any idea how I get hold of Tom M? Maybe he has a shop ready and waiting?

I thought it would be good to get this shop all set up and then they could sell them going forward if any one has interest.

Very curious to see what happens when I stick a trash bag up there and fill with foam :)
 

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Tom Mieczkowski in Tampa. He is on the new Esprit Groups.io list. If you need a phone or email, PM me.
 

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Where in Minnesota?
 

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That's almost Fargo. I have an engine out with a manifold on it. Not sure I want to truck it up there but if there are any measurements they want to take off of it they are welcome to come on down. I also have a manifold they can use as a template. They are about 4.5 hours away.
 

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I'm just west of Rochester.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update

Lotus brother Mike Griese above is shipping an old manifold over to GP Headers so they will have a mach up.

What would be the best stuff to use for the negative space in a bag thing.

Great Stuff is one brand, is there a better one?
 

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Update

Lotus brother Mike Griese above is shipping an old manifold over to GP Headers so they will have a mach up.

What would be the best stuff to use for the negative space in a bag thing.

Great Stuff is one brand, is there a better one?
I haven't tried my theoretical idea of using foam to fill the negative space. I can say that Great Stuff is very messy and sticky, so you'll want some cardboard on the floor. I'm also not sure if Great Stuff is too "runny" to start with before it expands and hardens, which will make it tricky to make it go where you want it. The bag will need to be a very thin mil to allow it to move into all of the voids/crevices.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Jim - yeah I have not used the great stuff in a while. I think it is too runny now that you mention it.

I think I will search out some alternatives.

Quick update - talked to the shop yesterday, they are cutting or having cut the flanges.
 
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