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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Elise, allready had its gauge cluster replaced (@about 15k miles) before i got the car

the issue is, the tach/speedo die, the fuel gauge drops to zero and the fuel pump refil light...lights if i go over a large bump in the road, its even corrected it self going over a 2nd bump.

i saw this happen the first time after fitting a Sector111 tall seat bracket, and figured i hadnt pushed the connectors in far enough, but its happened since then, and i cant imagine those two wires would screw with the clocks...but what do i know

ive done the trip button/door open/ignition switch reset voodoo, but the issue isnt the clocks reading high or anything, ive tried disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour, reconnecting, no change....going back another coupe of huos later and its fine. tried all that again tonight and still not working.

anyone had similar and fixed this or am i borked and have to spend $950 on stock gauges or more on AIM or Race Technologies gauges
 

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Sorry to hear about your problem.

I have a 2009 Elise. The speedometer and tach have always been fine. However two times one half of the LED section that shows the trip odometer went blank. Each time it came back within about an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so after 2 hours on the trickle charger, checked gauges, all OK.

went for a drive, after 15 mins, gauges play up once while driving, come back....took a right 90 degree corner "enthusiastically" and they go completely....took a hard left 90 degrees and they come back...awesome...sorted!

So im guessing its either an issue with a weak battery (Deka XT20L) or dry joints on the soldered connections or even, if bumps and cornering mess with it, then maybe a loose connection

jus' thinking out loud here

oh yeah, when the clocks are screwed, doing the open door/trip reset I hear the stepper motors whirr as if reseting position....not tried it when clock are workign to see if needles do the sweep during the door/trip reset
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so now ive discovered when the cabin/dash gets up to a "warm" temp ie can tell the heat is on. the gauges come back and stay, tell tales, rev speedo etc all fine

makes me larf, my 06 explorer has 100,000 miles 6 years old and so far has been faultless in 6 years
 

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Discussion Starter #6
fixed my gauges...

so it turns out its my big feet :D

when I fitted the S111 low&tall seat mount was when they started playing up, so checked found the seatbelt wires under the seat disconnected..2+2 then they worked...for a whil.....long story short cause im boring myself

(possibly)the changed angle of my right foot meant it was going up inside the dash more... bent a wire, loosened a connector, made a connection at certain angles or times...whatever, found reaching under (not reach around, that's something else entirely) and watching the gauges while pressing, pulling on wiring found that the gauges worked..they didn't...worked ...didnt depending on what I was pulling and where

so, bit of gymnastics under the dash, two zip ties to pull all the wiring up (roofwards) away form my big feet and no issues since...YMMV
 

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so it turns out its my big feet :D

when I fitted the S111 low&tall seat mount was when they started playing up, so checked found the seatbelt wires under the seat disconnected..2+2 then they worked...for a whil.....long story short cause im boring myself

(possibly)the changed angle of my right foot meant it was going up inside the dash more... bent a wire, loosened a connector, made a connection at certain angles or times...whatever, found reaching under (not reach around, that's something else entirely) and watching the gauges while pressing, pulling on wiring found that the gauges worked..they didn't...worked ...didnt depending on what I was pulling and where

so, bit of gymnastics under the dash, two zip ties to pull all the wiring up (roofwards) away form my big feet and no issues since...YMMV
Hey Skunk-man,

I'm wondering if your cluster still works as it should and if so what wires in particular did you mess with under the dash.

I have the same exact symptoms - speedo and tach read zero regardless of speed, gas gauge reads empty, odometer doesn't work..... etc.

I've gotten lucky and tapped the cluster with my fingers and had it pop back to life and either go right back out or work just fine for the rest of the drive.

The one thing that seems to 'fix' it is parking the car in the sun and let it get warm. Once warm it almost always works fine...........but let it cool for a while and all bets are off.

I pulled the cluster out of the car and opened it up and nothing looked amiss - nothing obvious anyway. The circuit board is really tightly packed and I'd never be able to see a bad trace I don't think.

I popped it all back together and it worked fine for a few minutes and then didn't. I rolled the car out into the sun and 'fixed' it again.

Can you give a bit more detail as to what wires you found near your feet that you played with to get it to work? Any help would be very much appreciated.

Dave
 

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Possibly, not generally known, is that beyond the factory 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty, is the "Emissions" warranty.
If you are fortunate enough to have your car registered in either California, New Jersey, Connecticut, Oregon, Washington, Rhode Island, New York, Maine, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, New Mexico, Florida or Colorado, there is a CARB, 7 year/70,000mile warranty on;
Catalytic Converter, heat shields, gaskets & fasteners
ECM
Throttle Body
Exhaust Manifold
Fuel Tank
Fuel Level Sender & Seal
IAC Valve
Knock Sensor
Intake Manifold & Gasket
Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve
Fuel Level Vent Valve
Roll Over Valve
Instrument Pack
Main Harness

If your car is registered in other States, there is an Federal 8year/80,000mile warranty on only the;
Catalytic Converter, heat shields. gaskets & fasteners
ECM

Cheers,
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey Skunk-man,

I'm wondering if your cluster still works as it should and if so what wires in particular did you mess with under the dash.

I have the same exact symptoms - speedo and tach read zero regardless of speed, gas gauge reads empty, odometer doesn't work..... etc.

I've gotten lucky and tapped the cluster with my fingers and had it pop back to life and either go right back out or work just fine for the rest of the drive.

The one thing that seems to 'fix' it is parking the car in the sun and let it get warm. Once warm it almost always works fine...........but let it cool for a while and all bets are off.

I pulled the cluster out of the car and opened it up and nothing looked amiss - nothing obvious anyway. The circuit board is really tightly packed and I'd never be able to see a bad trace I don't think.

I popped it all back together and it worked fine for a few minutes and then didn't. I rolled the car out into the sun and 'fixed' it again.

Can you give a bit more detail as to what wires you found near your feet that you played with to get it to work? Any help would be very much appreciated.

Dave
it was the flasher relay/junctions under the dash, whenever i pushed them upwards further in the dash the gauges worked, but couldnt tell wihich exactly as i was reachign under while still having to watch the gauges, ziptieing them up and away form my right foot stopped it ....i may have just got lucky
 

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I just went through this with my '05 Elise.. Right turn, gauges die. Hard left (or whack the top of the cluster) gauges come back.. Fun! Messed around with all wires I could reach under the dash and nothing changed. Finally removed and completely disassembled the cluster (great fun, as the needles will pop off and you have to remove the plastic to get them back on..). I found a transistor that was being impaled on a plastic rib when the board was mated to the housing. The solder had been completely flattened and there was a transistor-shaped dent in the rib. Solder "looked" like it was still conducting ok and wasn't broken, but I re-soldered it anyway and carved some clearance out of the rib so it wouldn't hit. Everything else looked ok, so I put it back together and it hasn't cut out in weeks.

I don't know if the transistor solder was the problem or not (didn't trace what it went to), or if it was just the plugging and unplugging that fixed it... Some say its caused by a bad connection in the cluster connector; they make contact cleaner sprays and coating sprays that are supposed to help..

Side note - the dash illumination in my (and many) Scion tCs would die, needing a $$$$ replacement HVAC panel. "We can't fix that here, only replace it." I found a transistor knocked off its pads because it was placed right where a rib hit the circuit board.. It's like the circuit board guys don't talk to the housing guys when they're designing these things...
 
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