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Discussion Starter #1
Im going to replace my motor here fairly soon. I've removed my AWD Eclipse motor in my schools parking lot when I was in a bind, but am more intimidated by the Lotus as its, well a Lotus.

I ordered the service manual for 25$ stickied on this site, but it doesnt give you a step by step process for setting timing nor removing the motor.. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, Im going to be replacing my clutch and flywheel, but my question is, If im just replacing the long block, is it even necessary to remove the transmission and axles? By the looks of it, it doesnt seem necessary.

Thanks so much guys/gals.

BTW- Ill take a lot of pics and make a DIY thread for engine removal if there isnt one available.
 

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Absolute power does what?
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Just finished a swap about a month ago so I'm happy to help with questions - there wasn't a guide that I found other than what's in the service manual. It's much easier than you think (probably) as it wasn't too hard for me (and I'm not a mechanic by any means).

I replaced my tranny as well so I pulled it and the axels but you're right, you wouldn't have to if you are just doing the motor (when I pulled mine I pulled just the longblock but wound up putting in a new tranny with the new motor).

My biggest advice is take a lot of pictures and label everything. If it comes off it either gets a label on it or it goes in a baggie. That kept everything straight for me. Once you have the rear clam off it will become clearer to you how straight forward it is.

As for setting timing you're going to want the Toyoto 2ZZ engine manual as it's not really Lotus specific. My new motor was fully built/ready so I didn't have to deal with that.

Drop me a PM or we can keep the discussion here...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Big Ross!

Thanks big guy. Im going to start this project today, and assuming a Engine removal thread with pics hasnt been attempted yet, I suppose I can offer one to the community with pics. Ill alsdo see if I cant order a service manual off ebay or find one online.

Im more then happy I dont have to mess with the axles, from doing my research, it seems l ike a real Pita. Anyhow, We can keep the discussion going in this thread just in case its useful for others. Im sure Ill have a whole host of ridiculous questions.

Thanks again for the help! Really Excited to get my car back on the road. Its been far too long.

 

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Wear mechanics gloves as every damn zip tie is cut at a sharp 45 degree angle.

It is not a terrible job, but getting all the stuff at the front of the motor is no fun.
 

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Absolute power does what?
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Big Ross!

Thanks big guy. Im going to start this project today, and assuming a Engine removal thread with pics hasnt been attempted yet, I suppose I can offer one to the community with pics. Ill alsdo see if I cant order a service manual off ebay or find one online.

Im more then happy I dont have to mess with the axles, from doing my research, it seems l ike a real Pita. Anyhow, We can keep the discussion going in this thread just in case its useful for others. Im sure Ill have a whole host of ridiculous questions.

Thanks again for the help! Really Excited to get my car back on the road. Its been far too long.

Just take your time - if I can do it anyone can. In fact I'll PM you with my cell number now, happy to lend a hand if I can.

As for the axels they really weren't that tough at all from what I remember. Getting the whole thing in was hard, and when we accidentally picked the entire car up off the stands was definitely a pucker moment...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok.. heres where I stand: Mind you I had to go pick up my block from fed ex which took nearly an hour and a half in rush hour traffic, go out to eat, talk to multiple gawkers whod come by my garage with questions (one being a thug who walked right up and said "sheeeeeIIIIT, how fast dis thang go?")

Regardless heres the list of things I got done today:
-Finished completely removing rear clam and labeling parts in plastic baggy
-Drained fuel lines
-Removed header (what on earth is that little pipe that runs atop the header near the flange? Mine wasnt connected to anything?)
-Removed Straight pipe/muffler/rear diffusor/lower rear panel
-Drained oil
-Removed Coolant lines connected to thermostat
-Unbolted the starter
-Unbolted tranny from the block
-Removed fuel rail & injectors
-Unbolted the RH axle bracket that attaches to the block

Questions: That axle bracket which is attached by 3 bolts is practically stuck to the block. Do I need to separate the axle to get the bracket to ease off?

2. The AC lines, Can I just remove the A.C. compressor from the motor and leave the AC lines attached? Or do I need to remove the AC lines and let the freon vent to atmosphere :/

3. Where the oil lines connect to the sandwich plate, Im assuming I disconnect them via the large nuts connected to the sandwich plate? If so, what size are those nuts? Im assuming 26mm?

Thats all I got so far. Ill attach pics of the tear down and my new block here shortly :)
 

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2. The AC lines, Can I just remove the A.C. compressor from the motor and leave the AC lines attached? Or do I need to remove the AC lines and let the freon vent to atmosphere :/

3. Where the oil lines connect to the sandwich plate, Im assuming I disconnect them via the large nuts connected to the sandwich plate? If so, what size are those nuts? Im assuming 26mm?

Thats all I got so far. Ill attach pics of the tear down and my new block here shortly :)
Yes you can dangle the AC compressor inside the engine bay.

You can remove the sandwhich itself by removing the bolt that goes through the center of the plate into the engine block. Its a big allen head.
 

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The axle support bracket has a dowel pin that locates it into the block.
 

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Absolute power does what?
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That axle bracket which is attached by 3 bolts is practically stuck to the block. Do I need to separate the axle to get the bracket to ease off?
Basically yes, it's impossible to get enough torque on it with the axle in the way so just take it off. It's not that hard at all.

Can I just remove the A.C. compressor from the motor and leave the AC lines attached?
Yup

Where the oil lines connect to the sandwich plate, Im assuming I disconnect them via the large nuts connected to the sandwich plate? If so, what size are those nuts? Im assuming 26mm?
No, that's not what I did. If you are going to reuse the sandwich plate then you just remove the large bolt that's inside it (that the filter threads on to) and it will separate from the motor.

BUT - you are planning to replace the oil lines and coolers, right? Did you have a critical engine failure, is that why you're swapping? That was my issue, cooked my motor good so I had a ton of metal in the system. If you have any metal in there you pretty much must replace the lines and coolers up front. I did the NCI lines from RLS and new stock oil coolers (left them both). The only way to not replace everything would be to thoroughly flush the entire lines/coolers before refilling.

...so...

In that case what I really did was then just cut the oil lines with a hack saw right at the plate. As you'll need to use them to pull the new lines in it's easier if they don't have the big fittings on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The axle support bracket has a dowel pin that locates it into the block.
Ahh, I got a huge crowbar and started prying. I heard a huge "sucking" type sound when prying it off. The bracket came off, but it has a lot of tension and wants to jet right back in its original position.

Yes you can dangle the AC compressor inside the engine bay.

You can remove the sandwhich itself by removing the bolt that goes through the center of the plate into the engine block. Its a big allen head.
Perfect! Makes my job a little bit easier Id say.

Basically yes, it's impossible to get enough torque on it with the axle in the way so just take it off. It's not that hard at all.


Cot Dang, I sure didnt want to remove that axle. For starters, I see people take out there whole suspension link. Two, whats the piece in the middle of the axle? Looks like an additional bracket with a bearing in the middle? Do I unbolt it (2 bolts) and pry it loose in the middle? Or just remove the shaft completely from the tranny and leave as a single unit?

BUT - you are planning to replace the oil lines and coolers, right? Did you have a critical engine failure, is that why you're swapping? That was my issue, cooked my motor good so I had a ton of metal in the system. If you have any metal in there you pretty much must replace the lines and coolers up front. I did the NCI lines from RLS and new stock oil coolers (left them both). The only way to not replace everything would be to thoroughly flush the entire lines/coolers before refilling.

I didnt have any medal in the oil (none that I noticed) although I Was low on oil. I noticed a lot of muck on the underside of the rear panel but didnt notice any noticeable leaking from the oil pan, although the front side of the pan was mucky like the rear panel :shrug:

I wonder if it would be a worthwhile investment to get a pan magnet? Also, I need to look online and see how to flush the lines. That is something I should re-consider before starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys, do the ACT clutch kits come with a throw out bearing? Im here at work, and I read online that the kits come with one, and I dont want to order one blindly if I already have one waiting for me in my garage. Thanks alot.
 

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Yes, I JUST bought one. Nice thread, I never pulled the motor but I had the thing swinging around on one loose motor mount getting the tranny off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
As far as I know all ACT clutch kits come with a throw out and alignment tool (where appropriate).
Thankyou SIR

Yes, I JUST bought one. Nice thread, I never pulled the motor but I had the thing swinging around on one loose motor mount getting the tranny off.
Hahaha nice. Thanks for the help

Here's a thread from Maine Lotus.
Your almost done so it's a good time to post the link.

http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/engine-removal-summarized-tutorial-50194/

Thanks Jim
 
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