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Very sorry to hear about your accident. I too would take the opportunity to repair and freshen it all up! I thoroughly enjoy projects like these.
On another note, I have dash cams in ALL my vehicles since my truck got rear ended and totalled by a DUI driver last April. The dash cams give me great piece of mind just in case there is questions on what happened. BTW, buy a good one and be sure to check it out often to be sure it's recording.


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Very sorry to hear about your accident. I too would take the opportunity to repair and freshen it all up! I thoroughly enjoy projects like these.
On another note, I have dash cams in ALL my vehicles since my truck got rear ended and totalled by a DUI driver last April. The dash cams give me great piece of mind just in case there is questions on what happened. BTW, buy a good one and be sure to check it out often to be sure it's recording.


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FlatCrank, you seem to be knowledgeable, what brand/model dash cam do you recommend ?
 

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FlatCrank, you seem to be knowledgeable, what brand/model dash cam do you recommend ?
I've found the Rexing brand to work well for me. I've got 4 of the Rexing model # V2 Front + Back Dual Camera 1080P. They were about $170ea on Newegg.com last time I bought. Work very well so far. NOTE: Buy the recommended MicroSD cards.
 

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I've always had the same fear, so whenever I'm stopped in traffic I stay far enough back to see their rear view mirror and the drivers door mirror.
 

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I've always had the same fear, so whenever I'm stopped in traffic I stay far enough back to see their rear view mirror and the drivers door mirror.
Yes, but it's not enough that you can see their mirrors, they need to see you! Take it one step further, can you see the other driver's eyes in their mirrors? Think about the number of cars you've witnessed with ill adjusted mirrors or a broken exterior mirror. Can you expect that driver to see you?

Cheers,
Kiyoshi
 

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Agree it doesn't seem that bad (which is not to say it isn't terribly painful), but the big question would be if there is any chassis damage or bending. Does the shop have the capability to check that aspect?
 

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Agree it doesn't seem that bad (which is not to say it isn't terribly painful), but the big question would be if there is any chassis damage or bending. Does the shop have the capability to check that aspect?
In all seriousness there is absolutely no way on this earth that the chassis could have been damaged by that hit. The chassis starts further back than any of the visible damage and is protected by the bodywork and crash structure. This is not an issue to worry about with this type of accident.

On that note damage to the chassis of an Elise is through one of two possibilities:
  • sliding sideways into a curb and ripping the suspension mounts
  • landing on or being penetrated by something pointy

I've never seen a bent Elise chassis. At least I've never seen anyone bother to check chassis straightness if it has suffered the level of damage required to bend one.
 

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Easy fixes on front clam. A good fiberglass shop can make that like new. If it were me I’d buy the car from the insurance company for salvage (do the deal right away for best price) and pocket the balance of the payout. Fix the car and drive it. If you really want to save some money do the clam removal and install yourself and deliver the front clam (without the lights and grilles installed) to the body shop. Your only issue is a salvage title for resale, but if you have detailed photos of just clam damage it won’t be too much of an issue.

Regarding a bent chassis, I know exactly what that looks like as I totaled one of my Exige S on the track spinning into the Armco in the rain at speed (Found out afterwards there was oil dropped on the track by another car). The weak part of the front chassis are the suspension pick up points. Fairly easy to tell if you know what to look for.
 

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I would be carful using body shops the insurance company wants you to use. Some are good some are very bad. Long ago I worked for a body shop that did high end work. I learned its best before I let someone have my car I go look at what kind of work they do. I will ask to look at a black car that has been repaired and then a silver car. These colors can be very hard to match. Also black will show any flaw in the body work they did. Lastly make sure to take it to a shop that works with fiberglass.
I would be proactive and find a shop with a good reputation where you live run by some one that loves the car hobby. You don't want a body shop that turns out repairs like a factory.
This can be fixed good as new. If there is no structural damage there is no way I would get rid of it.
I suggest contacting Lotus to find out which body shops in your area are approved by them. Mulholland Motorsports is an approved body shop in the Los Angeles area and they did an excellent job for me. I believe that you will find, as I did, that the Lotus-approved body shops are the only way to go; they really know their stuff well and have lots of experience with Lotus cars.
 

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I suggest contacting Lotus to find out which body shops in your area are approved by them. Mulholland Motorsports is an approved body shop in the Los Angeles area and they did an excellent job for me. I believe that you will find, as I did, that the Lotus-approved body shops are the only way to go; they really know their stuff well and have lots of experience with Lotus cars.
That’s like finding a needle in a haystack
 

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@mitchrvguy,

A couple of us asked: Did you honk your horn? Is your horn stock?
 

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Once upon a time I was sitting behind another car in my MR2. He had stopped at the intersection and decided to back up when he spotted a couple buddies walking on the sidewalk. No chance to move so I blew the horn frantically. No effect, collision ensued. Hit and run.

Later my wife was sitting in her 328 behind a work truck. Same situation, lots of horn but no effect, collision ensued. Hit and run. That one nearly totaled the car, which I'm certain the insurance company wished they had done by the time they finished paying for all the parts and repairs.

Another time encountered the little old lady syndrome where she backed into me at a stop sign. Blew the horn, no effect, collision ensued. No license. The damage to her car was worse than to my SportTrac so counted myself lucky.

Anyway the point is, horn or no horn, a careless driver will often not be deterred.
 

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I will say the horn saved me once, I did the air horn mod first winter I owned it. Guy in a pickup truck at a stop sign. I tend to drive through parking lots with my thumb on the button

Doesn't make it your fault , but the air horn is a good mod
 

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I will say the horn saved me once, I did the air horn mod first winter I owned it. Guy in a pickup truck at a stop sign. I tend to drive through parking lots with my thumb on the button

Doesn't make it your fault , but the air horn is a good mod
Interesting....I would think the size could be an issue finding a mounting place, and doesn't that require an onboard air compressor?
 

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Interesting....I would think the size could be an issue finding a mounting place, and doesn't that require an onboard air compressor?
There is a great compact all-in-one Stebel available from RD Enterprises. rdent.com Ref. 50M6056R $59.00 Goes in place of existing horn, connect the wires and increase the fuse size to 12.5 amps. 115dBA and great dual tone.
 

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RD is a beloved supplier for many of us, Buying there for 25 years.
 

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Anyway the point is, horn or no horn, a careless driver will often not be deterred.

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No point achieved as I view it. Stock horns are mostly unnoticed by other drivers,

One member here got backed into at a hot rod show while was there honking rather frantically,

THIS is why I always recommend ("Notes for New Elise Owners":

"The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be."
 

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Anyway the point is, horn or no horn, a careless driver will often not be deterred.

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No point achieved as I view it. Stock horns are mostly unnoticed by other drivers,

One member here got backed into at a hot rod show while was there honking rather frantically,

THIS is why I always recommend ("Notes for New Elise Owners":

"The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be."
Ok. Just saying that Elise stock horns aren't the only ones that get ignored. The horns in the BMW 328 and the Ford SportTrac (basically a pickup truck) didn't sound particularly quiet, although I never actually measured. And neither of them is a low silhouette vehicle.

That RDE one piece unit looks like an interesting contraption.
 
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