The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. I recently picked up a 2005 Lotus Elise in great condition... except for the fact that it has a blown engine! Luckily the price was right.

Do you know if a cheap, low mileage JDM 2zz-ge engine on eBay will work just fine for a replacement engine? I did about an hour of searching to see if I could find an answer, but I didn't have any luck getting a definite "Yes, it will work just fine" answer. I know sometimes sensors and the locations of some things vary depending on whether the engine is JDM or USDM.

I do live in a Texas county with emissions testing, for what it's worth. So I'd need all of the emissions stuff and ports to be there. I know in Japan they have more lax emissions standards, so they don't always have the same stuff on their engines or in their cars as we do.

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,284 Posts
Assuming you have possession of said blown engine, just swap all the emissions parts over to the new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. We have the engine still and all the emissions parts thankfully. I guess I was more wondering if there would be places to put all the emissions parts on. For example, maybe there aren't some ports or holes for emissions related sensors or vent systems on the JDM engines?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,284 Posts
Thanks. We have the engine still and all the emissions parts thankfully. I guess I was more wondering if there would be places to put all the emissions parts on. For example, maybe there aren't some ports or holes for emissions related sensors or vent systems on the JDM engines?
The main one I know of (so someone else, speak up if I am missing anything) is the exhaust porting, but the Elise header comes with a plug for that since it is not used on our platform.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
Yes 100% you can move everything over from a JDM engine. You can get them locally from JDM king in Houston, or ebay, or LKQ.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,851 Posts
You are in for lots of fun.

These are brilliant cars.


Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:

1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements.

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.

Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”

Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.

(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.

Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.

Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )

3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.

4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.

5. Transmission:

The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)

a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and

And, use:
Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:
https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission

These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting.

6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes aftercoolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.

For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.

I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.

7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s InoKinetic’s for two examples.

8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:

9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.

10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.

11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:

Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming

12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.

You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.

13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.

14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).

15. Visit the Uber Thread

**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...

16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.
Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.

17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.

Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.

-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

How to Bleed Brakes


How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com
no space betweensite:lotustalk.com
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,636 Posts
My opinion on 'used' engines

Nobody cares

LKQ, JDM will send you an engine with a hole in the pan

If you 'know a guy' IOW have a friend who is a mechanic that has a relationship with an engine supplier, like LKQ. It is your only hope of getting things worked out in your favor when the engine they send you is crap

Do not assume that because they rinsed the engine down with shiny black stuff, that it is any good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
exigegus, I appreciate the honesty. I've had good luck with replacement engines from ebay with other cars I've had, but those are more one-off engines with more records (e.g., an S2000 engine), and not a dime a dozen 2zz's that are "JDM, with an estimated mileage of 50k on the clock... but we don't actually know the exact mileage".

I've thought about just spending the money and getting an engine from MWR. However, I was put off by the fact that when I called them earlier today the person I talked to really couldn't tell me anything about the engines they were selling. That, and after all the fees + shipping, an engine from them was going to be like $800 more than what it looked like eBay engines were going for after all the fees + shipping.

Maybe a MWR engine is still the way to go, but I was pretty put off by the call. I don't think I learned anything from it, or anything about what my $2.5k (after all costs) was going to buy me. Honestly, it didn't even sound like they wanted to talk to me. Their phone menu system was constantly "Look at the website for all your questions!" and "Are you sure you haven't already found the answer to your question on our website?" throughout, and when I did finally get a hold of someone, the call was kept very short.

As a contrast, I also called BOE to talk to them about some of the stuff they sell. I spoke to Andrew. What a guy! I think he talked to me for like an hour or more tell me everything about the car, what could be done, what the pros and cons were of the different things, etc. If they had an engine in stock (I should have asked... there wasn't anything listed on their website), I would have bought one then and there. They will definitely be my go-to place to get Elise stuff going forward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,508 Posts
If the labor is worthless to you like it is to me ;) just buy a $800 engine from Houston. If you are paying someone to install it get the 2.5k engine.

Actually now that I type that a FB friend had a MWR engine come bad. So **** that just buy the $800 engine from a JDM shop. Don't get it from ebay. Shipping in TX is $100 and 1 day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the thoughts!

Any recommendations on JDM shops? I see LKQ has a 2ZZ-GE in stock from a Celica GTS, but they will only ship to a commercial building. It is going to a friend who is basically a master mechanic up in Dallas to do the work, but he is doing it in his garage.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top