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That's right boys and girls, The Junkman has went and made paint correction so easy, a caveman could do it! In the following videos, I cover the entire process from start to finish. The first two videos are worth their weight in gold for the information alone. I don't even start working on the paint until the third video but the amount of information I cover in the first two videos is priceless. Do NOT skip through them!

If you have ever been apprehensive about using a machine to rid your paint of scratches and swirls, you will definitely not be worried after watching this video series. I break it down to a level where a 10 year old can watch these videos and start fixing paint. The supplies and equipment that I use are readily available in the USA and abroad (for the most part). If you have a serious desire to finally fix your paint and about 1 hour and 54 minutes, then this video series is totally for you. After you have watched this series, you will not believe how easy I have made this.

So sit back and get out some popcorn, kick up your feet and enjoy. The Junkman is about to burst onto your screen in a way that only the Junkman can! :thumbsup:


Here are your before and after shots, which won't make a lot of sense until you have watched the videos, especially when you see how the number "2" ended up in the paint!


BEFORE...




AFTER!






Part 1 - Hey boys and girls! Finally, a video series that takes the process of paint correction from the beginning to the end (from claying to waxing). Although I do not apply any wax at the end, I cover everything else in detail. This series is 1 hour and 54 minutes long so that should give you an idea as to how much detail I go into.

In this first video, I talk in detail about exactly what paint correction is. I also go into detail about the polishing technique you should use as well as the best product on the market that you should buy. I cover other topics too so just sit back and kick up your feet. This video is 15 minutes and 7 seconds long.​




Part 2 - In this video, I go into detail about exactly what I use to remove the paint damage within this video series. I name and visually show every piece of equipment as well as all of the products necessary to do paint correction. In some cases, I even offer up a location where you can find the products that I use. I talk about why I chose to use the products that I use as well as what I don't use. If you want a list of these items, WATCH THIS VIDEO.​




Part 3 - Okay, in this video I identify the damage that we are going to repair. I even go as far to create some damage just to ensure that my paint will be more jacked up than your paint. I then go into detail about claying, and what it does for your finish. Last of all, I show how to assemble the PC-7424XP so that we can start the polishing process. The video following this video will be in high definition so that you can clearly see the damage and the effectiveness of my repair.​




Part 4 - Because I wanted the viewers of this video to be able to see the results of the work that I did in high detail, I uploaded this video in high definition. That took 12 hours!

In this video, I actually go into the proper technique for polishing with the PC-7424XP, showing me using the machine properly. I show the polishes that I use, the pads that each polish is used on, how to work the polisher and how much polish should be used. I also talk about the importance of not using too much polish and clogging up the pores in the pads, which makes the whole process worthless. I go into the discussion of how long to work a polish and when to stop (after a polish flashes). I show which order the polishes are used and explain why you use them in that order.

One thing that I stress in this video is the importance of a solid technique. I talk about and show the technique that I use, as well as how to ensure that you are developing a solid technique. As I say often in this video series, "Technique trumps product 365, 24/7. No matter who's polishes you decide to use, none of them will work worth a darn if your technique sucks. Technique rules!​




Conclusion - I recap my process and allow you into my mindset concerning paint correction and caring for your paint.​



The Junkman :cool:
 

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I'll have to check this out later when I'm bored on the couch and have 2 hours to spare, my car needs paint work desperately.
 

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What I would really like is a good tutorial on how to properly do touch up paint.
We had a customer at work that came back bitching to us because his touch up paint didn't match. He tried to paint just about half of his rocker panel with just a bottle of touch up paint :eek:

I rotfl
 

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What I would really like is a good tutorial on how to properly do touch up paint.
I don't think there is a way to properly do touch up paint. Its a different paint applied with a different technique. Ain't no way its going to look right if you take a close look at it.

Good videos junkman! I learned a bunch (went on a marathon and watched all these, the waterless wash videos and a few others)

Do you have anything that deals with clear bras? I'd be cool to see how you handle polishing and waxing when you have to be mindful of a clear bra, or how you get sh!t out of the edges
 

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You have a clearcoat touch up video? I have to touch up a small flat section. I have the clear and bought to HQ very small art paint brushes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What I would really like is a good tutorial on how to properly do touch up paint.
Then take a look at Dr. Colorchip, Langka or if you really want to do it right, Applied Colors.


... Do you have anything that deals with clear bras? I'd be cool to see how you handle polishing and waxing when you have to be mindful of a clear bra, or how you get sh!t out of the edges
First of all, I would NEVER get stuff in the edges because I would tape them off with painter's tape. I avoid doing anything near a clear bra and you would be able to tell the difference.

You have a clearcoat touch up video? I have to touch up a small flat section. I have the clear and bought to HQ very small art paint brushes.
See the Applied Colors video above. Personally, I don't reapply clear coat, only paint. If I need to apply any clear, I'm going to shoot it with a paint gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the videos! Timing couldn't have been any better.
This just happened this morning :[

I have a thread on this forum that addresses scratches like that directly. Whatever you do, DO NOT use touch-up paint on that scratch. As high as it is on your car, it will look like crap. That looks like it can be fixed with wet sanding alone. Does your fingernail catch in it at all? If not, that's an easy fix. You saw how much of that "2" disappeared with buffing alone.

Too bad you're not close to me in Louisville. I'd fix it just to show that it can be done without touch-up paint.
 

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First of all, I would NEVER get stuff in the edges because I would tape them off with painter's tape. I avoid doing anything near a clear bra and you would be able to tell the difference.
Understood on taping the edges. I guess I'm wondering is, what methods do you use to get as close to the clear bra as possible? Obviously you wouldn't polish a clear bra, but when you're applying wax or a sealant don't you want to get as close as possible? When I tape off the clear bra there's typically 1/8" to 1/4" overlap beyond where the clear bra ends and I always wonder if there's a way to get closer (that last 1/8") without getting anything up under the edges of the clear bra.... after all, unprotected paint is unprotected paint!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
While buffing next to a clear bra, I'm going to leave at least 1/2 to a inch of leeway from that edge. The area that is covered with tape will be done by hand. I will NOT chance pushing polish or wax under the edge of the clear bra. That looks like crap and I personally cannot stand the sight of it. You can work by hand up to the edge of the clear bra and if you are touching your paint correctly, there won't be any damage to fix so all you have to do is hand apply your wax.
 

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makes sense, thanks! any additional comments on 'touching your paint correctly' when it comes to polishing or waxing by hand near a clear bra edge? I assume the technique would be different compared to working on areas no where near the clear bra.
 

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makes sense, thanks! any additional comments on 'touching your paint correctly' when it comes to polishing or waxing by hand near a clear bra edge? I assume the technique would be different compared to working on areas no where near the clear bra.
Good question and let me be very clear about this as this is a very anal mindset. It order to have paint like the paint on my pride and joy, you have to have the following mindset engraved into your way of thinking concerning your car.

1. Your car is ONLY clean directly after you have washed it. At that point and only at that point should you ever cover it with a cover or be working on the paint in any way.

2. Once the car has been driven, be it down a driveway or around the block, the car is now DUSTY. At that point, you do NOT wipe anything across the paint except for a California Duster. The California Duster can only be used in a specific way. I detail that method in my dust removal videos.

3. Use the correct towels to wipe on your car. Anything coming out of China is most likely going to be garbage. Anything with a tag sewn directly into the seam of the towel IS garbage. The only towels that I have found to be worthy of touching my paint were made in South Korea or the USA. Towels can scratch your paint just as dirt can if they are of cheap quality.

4. Washing your car is the SAFEST way to remove dust or dirt as long as the wash is done properly. I detail the proper way to wash a car in my 2-bucket wash thread. No part of what I do can be substituted or skipped as I've already been there and I have accumulated enough paint damage to now know better. You get to benefit from the mistakes that I have made in the past.

5. The less you touch the paint, the better it is for the paint. Anything that you do to your paint must be addressed with the question, "Can I do this WITHOUT touching the paint?" If not, then you must ensure that the method you use to touch your paint is the least damaging way. That's why the equipment and products that you use are so important. This is why I blow dry my car instead of using a towel to dry it. I can use an alternative method of drying instead of touching the paint. That is always a win-win.

6. NEVER pull your car into the garage and wipe it off after driving it in the rain, no matter how small the shower. At that point, your car is covered with thousands of tiny rocks. Wiping on it at that point will do a ton of damage. Remember, the damage is accumulative. In other words, a lot of folks won't realize just how bad you've screwed up until the damage is brutal. Don't be that guy.

7. When repairing your paint, don't blanket bomb it. For those who don't understand what that means, you either haven't watched the videos in this thread or you need to watch them again. ;)
 

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I have a thread on this forum that addresses scratches like that directly. Whatever you do, DO NOT use touch-up paint on that scratch. As high as it is on your car, it will look like crap. That looks like it can be fixed with wet sanding alone. Does your fingernail catch in it at all? If not, that's an easy fix. You saw how much of that "2" disappeared with buffing alone.

Too bad you're not close to me in Louisville. I'd fix it just to show that it can be done without touch-up paint.
Hey, thanks for the offer!
My fingernail does catch in it. Would buffing fix it, or should I go the bodyfiller / touchup route?

Thanks for your help!
 

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If your fingernail catches on it, that scratch is beyond your expertise. You would need the more expensive Applied Colors kit to fix it right, but that kit is above your expertise also. My best suggestion to you is to have an expert fix it. All the buffing in the world is not going to make that scratch disappear without striking through the clear coat and into the paint. Also (because of where it is located), buffing on that scratch is going to be very tricky. This scratch really calls for someone who knows what they are doing. There are a lot of hacks out there. Don't mess around and let someone work on that scratch until you have seen with your own eyes (not pictures), the work that they can do.
 

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If your fingernail catches on it, that scratch is beyond your expertise. You would need the more expensive Applied Colors kit to fix it right, but that kit is above your expertise also. My best suggestion to you is to have an expert fix it. All the buffing in the world is not going to make that scratch disappear without striking through the clear coat and into the paint. Also (because of where it is located), buffing on that scratch is going to be very tricky. This scratch really calls for someone who knows what they are doing. There are a lot of hacks out there. Don't mess around and let someone work on that scratch until you have seen with your own eyes (not pictures), the work that they can do.
Got it. Thanks for the help!
I'll probably take it to the body shop that did my sister's mustang when it was side-swiped. They did a really nice job. Can't even tell it was hit.
 
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