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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I just installed the katana kit and a water injection kit, Coolingmist.

I decided to connect the Coolingmist controler with the MAF as proposed (and not mandatory) to control the water injection with the pressure and the MAF signal.

:no: don't try to connect the MAF.

The MAF have the flow function and the air temp function. One wire is commun, the yellow one. By connecting the MAF signal in parralell with the Coolingmist controller, the controller gave a close contact. The MAF signal was full at 250 g/s approx (don't remimber the number), and the temp was at -40 C. I just disconnect the Coolingmist controller, and the MAF was back on track, but the temperature sensor was not working anymore. I changed the MAF sensor with a new one, wishing that the trouble was the MAF, and not the ECU. Bad, the result was the same. The ECU input is probably dead. probably the commun wire just shout signal on the fragile air temp ECU input.

Charlie, if you are reading this message, the car run good at the moment, without any code. The air temp signal is at -40 C. I don't think that it is really bad since the ECU will adjust himself. What do you think?

Regards
 

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it'll cause the learn not to function, and you'll lose the over temperature protection, as well as any compensation.

uhh if its an 06 ecu, the obd ii -40c is misleading btw, though the temps still work internally.
 

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you live in montreal? you better be going to gsp vs mat serra this saturday! On topic... did you notice any gains by just adding the cooling mist?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Charlie,

I am looking for fixing the ECU by a ECU specialist down here, I will see if he can fix it. By the way, I opened the ECU, and your job is so well done than I don't know which component you have changed requiring the open the ECU.

Interesting, the computer look like it learn something since the plus at +10 C are the right color, whatever if the readout is -40 C. But the cold start at 0 C needs the engine to run at idler quite long to run right.

Andrew,

I was not aware for the box fight. Regarding the water injection, it is not installed yet, just the wiring and all tube... Just 5 minutes left to finish the installation. I am not rushy, the water injection will be for the track day, not for the street. I don't have your answer.

Regards
 

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Charlie,

I am looking for fixing the ECU by a ECU specialist down here, I will see if he can fix it. By the way, I opened the ECU, and your job is so well done than I don't know which component you have changed requiring the open the ECU.

Interesting, the computer look like it learn something since the plus at +10 C are the right color, whatever if the readout is -40 C. But the cold start at 0 C needs the engine to run at idler quite long to run right.

Andrew,

I was not aware for the box fight. Regarding the water injection, it is not installed yet, just the wiring and all tube... Just 5 minutes left to finish the installation. I am not rushy, the water injection will be for the track day, not for the street. I don't have your answer.

Regards

its an MMA fight not boxing but i guess that isnt your thing no worries. Hope everything works out for you
 

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You can't see anything, because i don't change anything physical, its all software, plus the chip that would get changed is on the underneath, so you wouldn't be able to see it anyway.
 

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Don't mess with the MAF, just tap your manifold for a boost reference. Cooling Mist makes a nice boost controller, which I've been using for a year & a half...works great.
 

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Hello,

I just installed the katana kit and a water injection kit, Coolingmist.

I decided to connect the Coolingmist controler with the MAF as proposed (and not mandatory) to control the water injection with the pressure and the MAF signal.

:no: don't try to connect the MAF.

The MAF have the flow function and the air temp function. One wire is commun, the yellow one. By connecting the MAF signal in parralell with the Coolingmist controller, the controller gave a close contact. The MAF signal was full at 250 g/s approx (don't remimber the number), and the temp was at -40 C. I just disconnect the Coolingmist controller, and the MAF was back on track, but the temperature sensor was not working anymore. I changed the MAF sensor with a new one, wishing that the trouble was the MAF, and not the ECU. Bad, the result was the same. The ECU input is probably dead. probably the commun wire just shout signal on the fragile air temp ECU input.

Charlie, if you are reading this message, the car run good at the moment, without any code. The air temp signal is at -40 C. I don't think that it is really bad since the ECU will adjust himself. What do you think?

Regards
Hi, I am sorry you are having an issue, I also must admit I am very confused. You should have a MAF sensor that gives a 0-5V (yellow and green wire?), anyway....You should be able to connect our blue wire to the 0-5V MAF wire.

From there, you will need to flip the hardware switch (under the boost port) to the right. The Green knob will reference MIN voltage, the RED knob will reference MAX voltage. The 1-0V and the 30=5V.

I have never seen any situation where connecting a MAF wire to the controller could cause any problems.

Maybe I am reading this wrong, can you clarify?
 

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Since you're here, Mr. coolingmist...is there any advantage to using the MAF signal over using manifold boost?
 

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Since you're here, Mr. coolingmist...is there any advantage to using the MAF signal over using manifold boost?
maybe.

If you inject based on boost only, if you shift you will stop injecting. MAF will not have that problem. If you have a fast spooling S/C MAF will give you a more subtle injection curve.

We can do MAF and boost at the same time as well, merging both inputs and created a map with both.


Also, I am not advocating one or the other, but when I get my s/c or turbo I will likely be doing MAF and Boost or RPM/Boost or if I feel crazy enough RPM/MAF and Boost.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #11
David,

The yellow wire is commun to the MAF and IAT. My controller was connected, but not powered yet. The switch was not moved yet to the right since I was looking to play with the water injection later.

Like I wrote at the beginning, and with the set-up done as described, the MAF signal was fully close (I presume) like MAF at full flow.

I did not see any warning about that risk on the Coolingmist controller, and men, if I am not able to fix the ECU (I will have the answer tonight), I will need to buy a ECU, send it to Charlie, and pay for the reprogram by Charlie. Honestly, it is not a good week for me...

I purchased the Coolingmist set-up because the controller was very nice and easy to adjust, and flexible to control or not with the MAF and boost.

Regards
 

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David,

The yellow wire is commun to the MAF and IAT. My controller was connected, but not powered yet. The switch was not moved yet to the right since I was looking to play with the water injection later.

Like I wrote at the beginning, and with the set-up done as described, the MAF signal was fully close (I presume) like MAF at full flow.

I did not see any warning about that risk on the Coolingmist controller, and men, if I am not able to fix the ECU (I will have the answer tonight), I will need to buy a ECU, send it to Charlie, and pay for the reprogram by Charlie. Honestly, it is not a good week for me...

I purchased the Coolingmist set-up because the controller was very nice and easy to adjust, and flexible to control or not with the MAF and boost.

Regards
You have to remember that the Vari-Cool (and all progressive controllers that have a 0-5V input) inject based on a 0-5V. The controller cannot make your MAF signal read 5V. that wire is an input voltage wire. Turning the switch to the left or right does not matter as far as wiring it.

If you would have connected the MAF wire to the SMALL black wire (instead of the blue wire) that could have undesired results (possibly a fried controller).

your situation while sad, I believe to be an isolated case.

What do you think is special about the MAF wire on the elise? I realize that you say the IAT and MAF are shared, however if your MAF wire was 5V and you connected the small blue wire to the system, all that would do is make your controller turn on. The controller does not impose any load on your MAF wire.

I hope you can update this thread and find out what the cause of this was. I would be shocked if you were the only elise owner that ever tried to run MAF.

I wish you the best of luck on the ECU, I hate to see things like this regardless of the cause.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #13
David,

The MAF and the IAT are on the same unit. The unit have 5 wires (I don't have the wiring diagram with me at the moment) the black is the 12V, the Blue is called Signal for the MAF, the Yellow is called ground for the MAF, the Blue/Black is the Signal for the IAT, and another yellow wire for the IAT ground. Both yellow are connected together in the hardness. In parrallel, I took the blue and the yellow wire to the controller. And as I said, with the coolingmist hardness connected to the MAF, my air flow read out was not moving (whatever the rpm) at more than 250 g/s. My IAT was at -40 C.

When I was starting the car, the engine just start and stop. It was required to start again and with more difficulty. This main that the engine was running on emergency program, and of course, the engine code just appears.

After disconnecting the Cooling mist controller MAF hardness, the MAF just start to work again, but never the IAT. After few runs, the check engine light disappears.

Of course, I will never try again to connect the MAF on the coolingmist controller, I will not take the risk a second time.
 

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I wonder if the issue is connecting the MAF ground to the unit. The MAF is grounded already so there is no need to.

That ground is used for other devices. For example, if you used our intake temps sensor, you can ground the sensor with that ground.

Having said that, there should be no problem with connecting the small black wire on the controller to your MAF ground, its just not necessary.

I hope all turns out well.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Since my english is not perfect at all, it sound that I did not understand right the first Charlie answer.

The IAT measurement for OBDII will show -40 C because of the reflash. This mean that my ECU is probably OK. I just talked to Charlie by phone.

Still, I will not be able to connect the Coolingmist since it is something wrong somewhere. After verification of the color code of wiring, the MAF signal is Green and white, the 12+ MAF ref is K/???, don't remaimber. and I suppose that the K is for pink, don't remaimber the second color.

This mains that it is no blue or black wire as expected by Coolingmist comment. And it still that the cooling mist controller is creating an error on the MAF readout.

Good news.
 

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Since my english is not perfect at all, it sound that I did not understand right the first Charlie answer.

The IAT measurement for OBDII will show -40 C because of the reflash. This mean that my ECU is probably OK. I just talked to Charlie by phone.

Still, I will not be able to connect the Coolingmist since it is something wrong somewhere. After verification of the color code of wiring, the MAF signal is Green and white, the 12+ MAF ref is K/???, don't remaimber. and I suppose that the K is for pink, don't remaimber the second color.

This mains that it is no blue or black wire as expected by Coolingmist comment. And it still that the cooling mist controller is creating an error on the MAF readout.

Good news.

The vari-cool has a blue wire and small black, not your MAF. Unless the controller is malfunctioned, I dont know how its possible to be creating a problem that you describe.

David
 
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