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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Installing a kill switch on my track car, 4430 master battery cut off from Pegasus racing. I need an ignition circuit to break with the switch. Using the diagram below.

The wire from the left is brown and Is the positive power from the battery power binding post in the front of the car. Our cars shouldn't have or use the black wire its for start we use the start button. The top wire should be Yellow with a Green tracer, the next one should be Yellow, and the main output when the ignition is in the run position should be the White wire - it's the one that goes to "Splice D", and that goes to all the various circuits that are powered in the "Run" position.

The white wire is what I need to splice into for the ignition circuit of my kill switch????????

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Bump
 

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I have absolutely no experience with this, but since no one was answering your thread, I figured I'd join for conversation sake.

The wiring diagram that you posted is confusing- I see five positions (open, Br-YG, Br-Y, Br-W or Br-Immob), but does the diagram clearly indicate what function each contact does? For instance, what does closing the switch with Immob do?


Would it be as simple as actuating their function (turn key to various positions, push starter button) while using a multimeter to confirm electrical contacts are made for each wire set?

Can you just open the dashboard and splice into the wires which are already used in the key switch and in the ignition button, or will you have to wire in high power leads from the battery and starter (for a more direct intervention in the circuit)?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have absolutely no experience with this, but since no one was answering your thread, I figured I'd join for conversation sake.

The wiring diagram that you posted is confusing- I see five positions (open, Br-YG, Br-Y, Br-W or Br-Immob), but does the diagram clearly indicate what function each contact does? For instance, what does closing the switch with Immob do?


Would it be as simple as actuating their function (turn key to various positions, push starter button) while using a multimeter to confirm electrical contacts are made for each wire set?

Can you just open the dashboard and splice into the wires which are already used in the key switch and in the ignition button, or will you have to wire in high power leads from the battery and starter (for a more direct intervention in the circuit)?
Actually both. Most cars are wired direct to the starter in one form or another. Ours goes to a junction block. So yes I'm going to need to run a wire from the batt or I can use the cable going to the posts up front. And yes I was going to splice close to the ign switch, the trick is finding what wire will cut the ign circuit whe I throw the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So I was sitting at work pondering this. I have removed my entire immobilizer and alarm system. My immobilizer main connector is jumpered as below. I wonder if I can use the starter side of it?

Below is the switch I intend to use and the schematic for it.




There has to be an electrical guru out there that understands this!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bump.......Bueller Bueller Bueller
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am really amazed nobody has any insight on this............

Either that or I have been an ******* on here!
 

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Bobby, mine is connected directly to the battery, would it help if I took some detailed pics of that and upload them?

Looks like you are headed in a different direction though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Bobby, mine is connected directly to the battery, would it help if I took some detailed pics of that and upload them?

Looks like you are headed in a different direction though.
No we are good Mick. I'm trying to figure out what's best used for the top connection "Z" in the pictures above.

I'm going to use the jumper I put on the immobilizer plug to cut the fuel pump off.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So final decision on this. I'm going to use the modification I made to the Cobra/immobilizer delete.

The wires I jumpered on the right go to the fuel pump. I'm going to connect it to the "z" blade on the kill switch.

A lot of people don't realize a two pole kill switch connected just to the battery will not shut the engine off, if the alternator is turning it will still supply power. Then when you cut battery power where does that extra alternator juice go? You need to give it a path or it will damage your alternator. Thus the 'w' connection with a jumper and a resistor.

If you want a switch to disconnect the battery that is fine but if you want a true kill switch for track safety purposes, I feel it needs to be done this way. Its a pain and more wire to run but safer in my mind.

Thanks for all the great replies on this thread!
 

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Cutting the fuel pump will work. But you may find the car runs for a bit before it actually dies. The best way to go about it is killing the ignition IMO.

On our latest car, I ran the power from the ECU Ignition Fuse (F13) through the kill switches (we have 2).
 
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