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Discussion Starter #1
If any of you have laid laminate flooring i would really like to know how much should i stagger (sp?) the boards in each row....The company recommends at least 8 inches but i would like to know what you thought looked best. Also, Since i'm laying this flooring all throughout the first level is there any way i could know that it is completely straight (I don't want to start and be a 1/4 on an inch off and then 20 boards later i'm off a foot):wallbang:
Thanks,
Jon

P.S. I know i'm an idiot for doing this myself...but why waste the three grand to have in done that would otherwise go into my elise fund.
 

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i have seen tile guys use chalk lines( chalk string) to layout grids.
I use this for laying out cuts on my woodworking.
maybe that can give you the setup to do this.
why not ask home depot or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Every one seems to have a different opinion on the length of the stagger...but if i was to use a chalk line, i do not know what i would line it up with seeing as my house is a bit on the older side and not all the walls are completely square.
Thanks,
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just to give you an idea about how much flooring this actually is....

There are three palettes that were all originally as high as the large one
 

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I would suggest to follow the instructions. Use the leftover piece from the first row to start the second row as long as it is eight inches long and keep following that. If not, you will waste a ton of flooring and if you start to use pieces less than eight inches, the floor could be crooked down the road.

I did my kitchen and I used pieces less than eight inches to start rows and by the end, there were gaps in my floor. I redid it being sure to not start rows with less than eight inches and everything was fine. But then again, I am not a professional!!! :shrug:

Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the info... Are you pleased with the way it turned out?
 

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somehow, the $3K you said it would cost to do this with a pro is starting to seem like a real bargain.
 

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I have most of my downstairs done with a very similar appearing product. This go around I had a professional crew do it (I did all the tear-out of the old flooring). I have done some installs in the past, but mainly 1 room jobs. Using the leftover from the prior run to start the next is great advice (as long as the piece is greater than 8"). Make sure you DO NOT install the flooring as it sits right now. It must sit inside the space you are going to install it in for about 24-48 (check packaging) hours to "acclimatize" to the new location. Good luck!
 

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I've done it a couple times myself. as long as it looks straight its n big deal. size doesn't increase as you go along. The floor moldings should cover and small gaps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alright 5 rows down...i'll keep you updated with pics

Tomorrow i have to rip up a hallway's worth of ceramic tile and then scrape the thinset of the plywood....I had an unpleasant talk with the former owner when i found out that the plywood had been glued and screwed to the sub floor so the plywood has to be scraped clean. :wallbang:
 

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In terms of getting it straight find the longest run or wall you want to align it to an begin there. I agree with the 8" overlap as a good look - making sure it is exactly 8" in every case will really help the finished result look professional.

Make sure you DO NOT install the flooring as it sits right now. It must sit inside the space you are going to install it in for about 24-48 (check packaging) hours to "acclimatize" to the new location. Good luck!
+1 to this point too!!
 

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when i did it i tried to make it 'random' so that way there was never any chance of lines joining up, but i did at least 1/4 of a board length staggers on most, except a few which i did say 6 inches, but very few
 

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Do you want volunteers to help?? I have a hammer.
 

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This will not ensure that your layout is square to any wall except the one you measure off of, but it WILL ensure you don't get further off as you progress:

Use a chalk line to make a line parallel to your starting wall one foot away from that starting wall. Then two feet. Then three feet. Etc.

In this way, you have a check line every two or three boards to make sure you're remaining parallel.

And personally, I like the row-to-row offset to be half a board length. Looks like brickwork. Just my personal preference.

xtn
 

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I've done it a couple times myself. as long as it looks straight its n big deal. size doesn't increase as you go along. The floor moldings should cover and small gaps
Exactly. Follow the manufacturers recommendations regarding the staggering and only make exceptions when you need to, such as toward the end of a row. The little details that you are sweating will seem unimportant once your molding is in place and your furniture is down. This is a great do it yourself project.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Anyone have any idea on how to cut pieces for this?
 

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Circular saw or jigsaw. If jigsaw get plenty of spare blades (as the laminate is very tough). Don't use a handsaw -too much effort and takes too long.
 

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I've done a bunch of laminate floors. I like to go full board, 2/3 board, 1/3 board, full board....The 1/3 and 2/3 boards rotate in to start the next rows. Good luck with that corner. That won't be fun. Use a saber saw. You will have to probably wedge it in to get it to lock into place.
 
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